Kohn & Company Cufflinks

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1925.

Kohn & Company Cufflinks

Last month I wrote about several cufflink makers about whom we know very little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. This month's note features cufflinks from another "mystery maker", Kohn & Company.

Art Deco black and white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Kohn & Company created wonderful gold cufflinks that were designed with a touch of whimsy and fun. While the cufflinks created by firms like Carrington and Carter, Gough are stately in their elegance, the cufflinks of Kohn & Company are just as elegant, but with a lighter touch. I have to confess a fondness for the cufflinks of this firm.

Historical information about Kohn & Company is sketchy. The firm appears to have been founded in the early 1900s and ceased operations in the 1930s or early 1940s. Like many of the fine cufflink makers of the time, Kohn & Company was based in Newark, New Jersey.

White and yellow gold star burst cufflinks, circa 1925.

The firm created cufflinks and other jewels in 10kt and 14kt white and yellow gold. The cufflinks were sometimes set with small sapphires or diamonds. Dark enamels were also used to highlight the engraved designs and borders.

Radiant sapphire cufflinks, circa 1935.

The cufflinks reflect the broad currents of the Art Deco and Art Moderne design. Occasionally you will observe repeated geometric and linear patterns that are reminiscent of the earlier Arts & Crafts period. The style of the surviving cufflinks and the frequent use of white gold suggest that the firm began creating cufflinks around 1920.

Kohn & Company employed several maker's marks. On cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold the makers mark is a cone lying above a slanted "14K" gold purity mark. A variation of this mark has the gold mark "14K" placed inside the broad end of the cone.

On cufflinks crafted in 10kt gold the mark is the numeral "10" with a oversized "K" between the one and zero. The mark is usually found stamped on one side of the cross bars or on top of the quad brackets on 14kt gold pieces.

Please note, I have not found separate documentation of the 14kt mark shown above. I have attributed the mark to Kohn & Company based on its similarity to known Kohn marks and the shared styles of the cufflinks. This is an area for further research. I am interested in any thoughts from readers.

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1930.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a flurry of striking white gold and platinum cufflinks and a dramtic pair of Art Nouveau cufflinks crafted in yellow gold.

Sapphire and Platinum! Elegantly engraved platinum cufflinks set with sparkling blue Sapphires. Beautifully engraved with C-scroll and foliate borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Dramatic Deco! Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic black enamel borders. A nice example of the dramatic black-and-white jewels of the late 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930




Whiplash Vines! Art Nouveau cufflinks of entangled vines with whiplash curves and dramatic foliage. A nice example of the striking, nature-inspired designs of the Art Nouveau era. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.




Anthemion Elegance! Dramatic anthemions (palmettes) and stylized water lilies grace the borders of these elegant cufflinks. An exotic garden or palace courtyard in miniature. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Diamond Marquise! Elegant marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and small sparkling diamonds. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Platinum Octagon! Elegant platinum top cufflinks with engraved concentric circles and borders featuring alternate sections of tiered steps and foliate designs. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Mystery Makers

"Winged Bridge" cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Mystery Makers

A wise philosopher once suggested that "True wisdom is knowing what you don't know." In this spirit, this month's note takes a look at three cufflink makers from the early 1900s about whom we know very little.

It is conservatively estimated that between 1870 and 1930 at least several hundred companies in the United States were involved in the creation of fine jewelry. No doubt, a good share of these firms offered cufflinks at one time or another. About some of these cufflink makers we know quite a bit (e.g., Krementz & Co. and Larter & Sons). But about others we know very little beyond the beautiful cufflinks and jewels they created. This note highlights three of these mysterious makers.

Wm. Huger & Company gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

William Huger & Company

Based on extant examples, William Huger & Company appears to have made striking cufflinks from the early 1900s until the 1930s. A patent issued in 1883 for a specialized jeweler's file indicates that William Huger was involved in the jewelry trade from at least the early 1880s. Beyond this our knowledge of the firm is limited to several listings in jewelry directories and trade journals.

William Huger Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

William Huger was not as prolific as some of the fine cufflink makers of the early 20th century (e.g., Carrington & Company and Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss). However what the firm lacked in size and numbers, it made up for with the beauty of its cufflinks. Among my favorite William Huger cufflinks are examples from the Art Deco era. The firm created bold geometrically-inspired cufflinks that are emblematic of the period. Two examples are illustrated here.

Architecturally-inspired William Huger cufflinks, circa 1930.

The paucity of information we have regarding William Huger & Co. is a veritable trove compared to what we know about the next cufflink maker.

Elegant "Winged Bridge" maker cufflinks, circa 1920.

The "Winged Bridge" Maker

During the 1920s an unknown jewelry maker created a desirable group of white and yellow gold cufflinks. The cufflinks feature dramatic Art Deco geometric and stylized borders crafted in white gold. The centers are usually yellow gold and beautifully engine turned with intricate designs. These miniature jewels sparkle with the exuberance of the Jazz Age.

The unknown maker of these cufflinks employed a distinctive bridge design. The bridges flair out like the wings of a fantastic bird. Hence the name "Winged Bridge Maker".

"Winged Bridge" maker, circa 1925.

Reverse of cufflinks by Winged Bridge maker.

Other than the winged bridges, there is no maker's mark or other indication of the creator of these cufflinks. The absence of a maker's mark is especially puzzling given the "14K" gold purity mark stamped on the bridges. In 1906, the National Stamping Act required that items stamped with a gold or silver purity mark should include a registered maker's mark. The mystery of the Winged Bridge cufflinks deepens.

"TH" maker cufflinks with anthemion corners, circa 1925.

The "TH" Maker

The third group of mystery cufflinks has a maker's mark, a "T" over an "H". The challenge is identifying the maker to whom this mark belongs. The cufflinks are crafted in the Art Deco style, ranging from the classically-inspired pair with anthemion corners pictured above to the black enamel and pinstripe ovals shown below. The cufflinks are crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold and date from the 1920s and 1930s. Some may also be from a later date.

Enamel and pinstripe "TH" cufflinks, circa 1925.

"TH" maker's mark.

The maker's mark (a "T" over an "H") is found stamped
on the cross bars above the gold purity mark ("14").

Distinctive brackets of "TH" cufflinks.

A second identifying characteristic of "TH" cufflinks are the distinctive brackets. Shaped somewhat like a bow tie, the brackets have an inner edge that is outlined with an incised channel. When the maker's mark is obscured, the distinctive brackets can aid in identification.

"TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1930.

Maybe the "TH" cufflinks are less of a mystery than I have suggested. I have a nagging suspicion that the maker of these cufflinks is already known and that to date I have been looking for answers in the wrong place. Any light you can shed on this and the other questions posed by this note is greatly appreciated.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Deco cufflinks featuring green tourmalines, elegant Carrington sapphire and diamond cufflinks, and two pairs of oval gold cufflinks with pinstripe centers.

Art Deco Green! Among the finest Art Deco cufflinks are those that combine bold, dramatic design with striking colored gemstones. These 14kt gold cufflinks set with intoxicating green Tourmalines are a wonderful example. Crafted by Larter & Sons, circa 1930.




Carrington Sapphire and Diamonds! Sapphires, diamonds and platinum sparkle in these lively cufflinks. Surrounded by elegant twist borders with millegrain edges. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Scrolls and Pinstripes! Exuberant Art Deco cufflinks with lively scroll borders and elegant pinstripe centers. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Golden Pinstripes! Elegant gold cufflinks with pinstripe centers surrounded by classic double-box-and-cross borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Cufflinks in the Garden

Larter & Sons grape vine cufflinks, circa 1900.

Cufflinks in the Garden

I have been enjoying a short, sporadic vacation recently, so this note may be a little disorganized and uncharacteristically brief. One of the areas neglected during my absence (besides blog posting) has been the garden. Despite the neglect, it has been a glorious season for the flowers with the Full Moon Coreopsis in full bloom and the Ruby Dwarf Helenium coming into its own. With the garden on my mind it is appropriate to post several pairs of antique cufflinks featuring flowers and plants.

Chrysanthemum and vine cufflinks, circa 1910.

A riot of wild chrysanthemums flourishes across these eight-sided cufflinks, a scene that recalls the Japanese woodcuts of the 1800s. The influence of Japanese art on Art Nouveau design can be seen in the flowing tendrils and vines that curl like wind-blown wisps of smoke between the flowers. Within the small area of the cufflinks (less than 5/8" across) I count eight blossoms in various stages of bloom. Created by United Jewelers in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Carrington rose and thistle cufflinks, circa 1920.

Carrington cufflinks with elegant rose and thistle borders. A client suggested that the rose-and-thistle motif may be a subtle celebration of Scottish-English unity, but I am inclined to believe that the design was chosen more for its beauty than any political allusion.

Initially, I described the centers of these cufflinks as radiant sunbursts. Now that I am in a floral frame of mind the centers appear more like dramatic flowers evocative of the stylized lotus blossoms and papyrus fronds of the Pharaohs or ancient India. Perhaps a reader with greater knowledge of the flora and iconography of the ancient world can shed some light. These eclectic cufflinks were crafted by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Larter & Sons 14kt gold acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1900.

In the early 1900s, the Newark-based jewelry firm, Larter & Sons, created a wonderful collection Art Nouveau inspired cufflinks. The entwining grape vine cufflinks at the top of this post are a nice example. The acanthus leaf cufflinks pictured here further illustrate the firm's ability to create dramatic cufflinks with flowing, organic designs. The acanthus leaves appear to be slowly encroaching across the gently domed surface of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Larter & Sons acanthus leaf cufflink, circa 1900.

To view these these and other fine antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery feature three striking Art Deco dress sets and an elegant pair of Larter cufflinks with flowing acanthus leaves.

Acanthus Leaf! Dramatic gold cufflinks with flowing acanthus leaves. A nice example of the flowing, natural curves favored in Art Nouveau design. Crafted by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.




Art Moderne! A striking full dress set with the elegant lines and geometry of the late Art Deco period. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1930.




Platinum & Onyx! An elegant black onyx full dress set with small white pearls. The interplay of black and white is accentuated by brilliant platinum borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Platinum & Pearl! A dramatic Art Deco full dress set that beautifully captures the elegance and sophistication of the era. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

Durand & Company was one of the leading American jewelry makers during the 19th and early 2oth centuries. Although the firm was founded in 1869, the Durand family traces its roots in jewelry and related arts to the pre-Revolutionary era.

Under the leadership of James M. Durand, the firm was renowned for beautiful design and technical innovation. The company was known as a creator of "only the exceptional in jewelry" and an importer of the finest gemstones. During its 75 years, Durand & Company executed many important one-of-a-kind commissions, while also providing cufflinks and other jewels to the finest retail jewelers of the day. At one time the firm was in partnership with Charles Lewis Tiffany.

The platinum and gold cufflinks illustrated above are a beautiful example of the classically inspired cufflinks created by Durand & Company in the early 1900s. The radiant gold centers are dramatically engraved with a repeated chevron pattern. A surrounding course of platinum is also intricately engraved and accented with gold Greek key motifs which form the outer edge of the cufflinks. The cufflinks were crafted in platinum and 14kt gold around 1910.

Durand & Company acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1910.

Pictured above is a second pair of Durand & Company cuff jewels from the early 1900s. This pair shares the overall design of the first, but substitutes dramatic encroaching acanthus leaves for the Greek key motifs. The use of acanthus leaves and Greek keys illustrates the influence of the Classic past on Durand & Company jewelry designs.

The beauty of the Durand cufflinks was matched by the care with which they were crafted. The backs of the cufflinks are brilliant with a mirror-like finish. The backs are almost as beautiful as the fronts.

Reverse of Durand & Company cufflinks.

Note the sturdy brackets and cross bars that secure the cufflinks on the cuff. The linkage was specially designed by the firm and protected with a patent for "improved cuff buttons" issued in 1908. The maker's mark for Durand & Company - a stylized "D" - is visible just to the left of the gold purity mark ("14K").

Below is the schematic from the 1908 patent. Each of the numerous numbered points indicates parts of the design where the firm took great care to assure that the design would be both convenient and safe. The goal was to create a cufflink that could be put on with minimum fuss, but would remain securely on the cuff.

Drawings from 1908 for improved cuff-button design.

A brief passage from the original patent illustrates the extent to which Durand & Company pursued the desiderata of convenience and safety.

The improved feature of the device [cufflinks] is the connection of the bar, connecting the plates, with the back of the plates so as to give a stronger structure, and also to provide one that makes the entrance of each end of the cuff-button, into its side of the cuff, more easy than in the old style of button, due to the structure of the lug [bracket], on the back of the plate ...

It is fair to say that no detail was considered too small when Durand & Company designed a pair of cufflinks.

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

To view these these and other antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include an elegant Larter blue enamel and gold pair, striking Strobell & Crane sapphire and diamond cufflinks, late Victorian cufflinks reflecting the arabesque designs of Moorish Spain, and intricate Art Deco diamond cufflinks.

Infinite Squiggles! Elegant blue and gold cufflinks featuring an endless golden tangle of squiggles. A nice example of the dramatic, imaginative designs of the 1930s and '40s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.




Sapphire Elegance! The elegance of Sapphires and Diamonds set amid classic quatrefoils and sweeping garlands. A perfect marriage of classic and modern design. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1920.




Arabesque! Wonderful cufflinks reflecting the Victorian interest in the intricate arabesque designs of Moorish Spain and the Middle East. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.




Deco Diamonds! Antique white gold cufflinks featuring dramatic floral or cruciform motifs above a field of concentric circles. A nice example of the effusive Art Deco designs of the 1920s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

In several earlier posts, I discussed the artistry and history of antique cufflinks. This month's note is about cufflinks as objects of personal adornment. These three factors - Artistry, History and Adornment - in large part explain the irresistible attraction of antique cufflinks. Together they constitute the "AHA Effect."

The reasons individuals wear antique cufflinks are many. At the most rudimentary level cufflinks are functional - they hold a shirt cuff together. Beyond the utilitarian, a wearer may select a pair of antique cufflinks because he/she wishes to enjoy a miniature work of art and literally keep it close at hand. Another wearer may be motivated by a sense of history. While others may aspire to a public display of wealth.

Fortuitously, the designs of antique cufflinks are as diverse as the motives of those who wear them. The period from 1880 to 1950 saw the creation of cufflinks in many distinct styles, ranging from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Edwardian to Art Deco. Among antique cufflinks there is something to suit almost any taste.

This point is better illustrated with photographs than words. Below is a sampling of fine antique cufflinks from the 1890s until the 1940s. These cufflinks would beautifully adorn any cuff.

Striking guilloche enamel cufflinks with translucent purple enamel over an engine turned pattern of radiating ovals. A nice example of the beautifully crafted, bold designs created by Carrington & Co. during the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created around 1910 by one of the founding firm's of the American jewelry industry, Durand & Company.

A menagerie of mythological creatures and exotic animals inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with striking eagle-like features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

An exuberant pair of Art Deco cufflinks with radiant sunburst centers and black enamel accents. Engraved yellow and white gold borders complement the design with bold Art Deco motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Wonderful white-on-white cufflinks featuring mother of pearl centers surrounded by elegantly scrolling white gold borders with a small pearl in the center. Crafted in 14kt gold , circa 1920.

The elegance of the Edwardian era sparkles in these platinum and diamond cufflinks. The soft engraving of the platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Beautifully crafted gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Late Victorian cufflinks with dramatic winged scarabs. A wonderful example of Egyptian Revival design from of the late 1800s. Antique cufflinks often reflect an enthusiasm to past periods and ancient civilizations. Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1890

The curving, intertwining lines of ancient Celtic design inspired beautiful cuff jewels during the 19th century Celtic Revival. Another example, of the late Victorian interest in ancient cultures. These finely crafted cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Beautiful Tiffany Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring Old European Cut diamonds and blue Sapphires set amid flowing, intertwining curves. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.

The above and many other fine cufflinks from the past can be
found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.