The Dazzle and The Shimmer - Ziething Cufflinks

Ziething "Bull's Eye" cufflinks circa 1925.

Ziething & Company is one of the lesser known makers of fine cufflinks from the first half of the 20th century.  The firm created intricately engraved cuff jewels with beautifully engine-turned centers often surrounded by boldly engraved white gold borders.  When brightly polished these elegant cufflinks literally dazzle and shimmer with reflected light.

Ziething "Jungle Sapphire" cufflink circa 1925

Ziething & Co. was based in Newark, New Jersey and specialized in creating 10kt and 14kt gold jewelry.  The style and linkage of the firm's cufflinks suggests they were created mostly during the 1920s and early 1930s.  I suspect Ziething, like a number of the other cufflink makers in the early 20th century, did not survive the Great Depression of the 1930s.

The maker's mark for Ziething & Co. is the letter "Z" in a diamond-shaped surround.  The maker's mark is usually found stamped in the middle of the bridge.  The other side of the bridge is stamped with the gold purity mark, "10K".  The Ziething maker's mark is sometimes misidentified as an "N" in an elongated diamond.

Ziething "Spider Web" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Several years ago a reader of the original blog post for this article kindly provided the following background information about Ziething & Co. and its eponymous founder:

"It's good to see the cufflinks by Ziething & Co.  The business was started by my Gt Gt Gt uncle William Henry Ziething (1875-1944) who was brought to America by his father Henry Ziething in about 1884.  William was born in Portsmouth UK. Henry did not get on with his wife and told her that he was taking William & his sister Ada for a holiday to Germany.  They actually went to Newark, New Jersey where they settled.  William & Ada's mother Amelia never knew what happened to the family and assumed that they had drowned on there way to Germany."

More elegant examples of cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. can be found on the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

A Brief History of Carrington & Co.

In 1921 Carrington & Company, one of the preeminent makers of cufflinks, dress sets and other fine gentleman's accessories during the early decades of the 20th century, celebrated the 50th anniversary of its founding. The Jewelers' Circular, a jewelry trade journal, marked the occasion with the following history of the firm's first 50 years and the career of the firm's venerable leader, Charles L. Carrington.

Charles L. Carrington

TO CELEBRATE 50TH YEAR*

Carrington & Co Newark NJ Will Mark

Golden Anniversary of Establishment

of the Business in July. 

    During the month of July the well known firm of Carrington & Co. Inc., manufacturing jewelers, Newark, N.J., will celebrate its 50th anniversary in business.  Another note worthy event is the fact that EL Carrington who became a partner in the firm three years after the business was originally established still takes an active part and is at present the vice president

   The business was originally started in July, 1871, by Alfred P Mayhew and Isaac Leonard under the style of Mayhew & Leonard.  The first location of the concern was an entire floor in a building at that time known as 19 Green St. which is now part of the site of the present City Hall. 

   It was while C.L. Carrington was traveling for the old firm of George O. Street & Son, in 1874, that he became interested in the line manufactured by Mayhew & Leonard.  Through several odd coincidences Mr Carrington determined to affiliate himself with the Mayhew & Leonard concern and immediately upon his return from a trip he endeavored to obtain a partnership in the business.  After some effort he finally met with success and thereafter the firm became known as Mayhew, Leonard & Carrington.  They still remained at the same address and in 1896 Mr Mayhew and Mr Carrington bought out the interest of their partner, Mr. Leonard.  That partnership continued under the name of Mayhew & Carrington until 1900 when Mr Mayhew retired from the business.  In that year Mr Carrington admitted his two sons E.T. and C.B. Carrington as members of the firm and thereafter the business was carried on under the style of Carrington & Co.  In the same year the business was incorporated under the laws of New Jersey and in 1901 the firm vacated their quarters on Green St and built a large factory at 42 Walnut St. which is still the home of the Carrington concern.

   Since 1917 the firm has used the style of Carrington & Co., Inc. The present officers of the concern are: President, E.T. Carrington; vice president, C.L. Carrington; treasurer, C.B. Carrington, and secretary, W.C. Carrington.  The elder Mr Carrington is now 75 years old, but is still active in business and goes about his regular duties at the factory each day.  He entered the jewelry business in 1866 when he obtained a position as clerk with the old firm of Tomes & Malvain, importers and retailers on Maiden Lane.  The following year he went with Fellows & Ostrander which firm was also located on the "Lane".  He remained with this house for three years and in 1870 he took a position as traveling salesman with George O Street & Son. He remained with this concern until 1874 when he joined the Mayhew & Leonard firm as a partner.

* This article first appeared in the June 1st, 1921 issue of the Jewelers' Circular.

*****

An elegant Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set
retailed by Tiffany & Co. around 1925.

Examples of Carrington cufflinks, dress sets and stickpins can be found in the Antique Jewelry Galleries and the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

The House Charles Lewis Carrington Built

Tracking down and researching antique cufflinks is an adventure that takes you in many interesting directions.  Sometimes you follow an unpromising lead or seemingly insignificant clue to a surprising discovery.  The following architect's rendering of a fine Victorian house is the result of one such adventure.

The house Charles Lewis Carrington built in 1885.
Please click rendering for an enlarged view.

In 1885 Charles Lewis Carrington, the eventual founder of Carrington & Company, was a partner in the jewelry manufacturer Mayhew, Leonard & Carrington.  Since arriving in New York City shortly after the Civil War, his rise in the jewelry trade had been steady and impressive.  In 1885 he decided to celebrate his success by building a stately home for his family in Newark, New Jersey.

The following note about the Carrington house with the above rendering was published in the August, 1885 issue of American Architects and Building News.

HOUSE FOR MR. CHARLES L. CARRINGTON,  HIGH ST., NEAR
CLINTON AVE., NEWARK, N.J.  MR. VAN CAMPEN TAYLOR
ARCHITECT, NEWARK, N.J.

The house is now in course of erection on one of the principal residence streets of the city.  The first story will be built of North River brick, laid in red mortar, with Belleville stone trimmings.  The second story, etc., will be of frame shingled with cedar shingles.  The roof will be slated. The interior will be finished with painted walls, tiled fireplaces and hard-wood stairs and mantels.  The cost will be about $12,000.

By 1900 Mayhew and Leonard had retired and Charles Carrington reformed the firm as Carrington & Co. with his sons serving in various positions. During the first half of the 20th century Carrington & Co. was one of the preeminent maker's of fine cufflinks and dress sets.  Carrington remained active with the firm and lived in his house on High Street until his death in 1924.
-

Riviera Hotel with Carrington house to the right, circa 1925.

Old postcards of Newark's storied Riviera Hotel (located at the corner of Clinton Ave. and High Street) show the Carrington house just to the right of the hotel.  The house was knocked down some time after 1950 and in the 1980s High Street was renamed Dr. Martin Luther King Boulevard.  A recent tour of the area on Google maps suggests that the former house site is now a small parking lot.

Frequent visitors are aware of my enthusiasm for the cufflinks and other jewels created by Carrington & Company.  Examples of Carrington's work can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry and Antique Cufflink Galleries.

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Dress Sets, Brooches and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegantly striking cufflinks from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras.


Art Nouveau Curves  Elegant, free flowing scrolls accented with a sparkling star-set diamond.  The sinuous, untamed curves are a hallmark of Art Nouveau design.  Finely crafted  in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $865


Sapphires and Stars  Bright blue sapphires set in frosted glass disks.  The dramatic effect is like a distant star shining through wispy clouds in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.
Cost:  $875


Regal Blue  Twilight blue enamels set in boldly sculpted gold cufflinks.  Beneath the enamel a finely engraved radiating pattern shimmers like a distant star in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.
Cost:  $925


Feeling Lucky  A four-leaf clover, lucky horseshoe and wishbone assure the wearer of these Art Nouveau cufflinks the best of good fortune.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.  Cost:  $745


In the Tuxedo and Dress Set Gallery you will find a recently added a moss agate tuxedo set and a full dress set with onyx centers and ornate borders by Krementz.


Moss Agates  Mesmerizing moss agates with tangles of swirling green inclusions reminiscent of floating seaweed.  This elegant tuxedo set was created by Larter Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost: $1,375


Onyx and Scrolls  Dark onyx centers surrounded by white gold borders with an elaborate scroll-and-berry design.   An elegant set in the striking black-and-white style of the Jazz Age crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  Sold


New in the Brooch and Pin Gallery is an Art Nouveau brooch with an amethyst, a beautiful Carter, Howe bar pin with a sapphire and fine enamel work, and an Art Deco circle brooch set with sapphires.


Art Nouveau Amethyst  A vibrant amethyst set amid elegant guilloche enamel work framed by a border of gold bands and interlacing Art Nouveau curves.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $925


Edwardian Sparkle  A beautifully enameled bar pin set with a blue sapphire and two pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  Cost: $485


Sapphires and Filigree  An elegant Art Deco circle brooch with sparkling man-made sapphires set in intricate filigree work framed by stylized leaf-and-vine borders.  Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $365


New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery is a striking French Art Nouveau stickpin with a chimera clutching a stickpin in its maw.


Chimera and Pearl  A fierce dragon clutches a luminous pearl in its maw.  This golden chimera is a wonderful example of the dramatic and at times terrifying work of French fin de siecle jewelers.  Crafted  in 18kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Happy St Patrick's Day!

Wishing all a happy, healthy and lucky St Patrick's Day!

This lucky pair of cufflinks features a four-leaf clover, horseshoe and wishbone to help bring the wearer good fortune.  The influence of Art Nouveau design can be seen in the sinuous curves of the lucky clover's stem as it flows into the border of the cufflinks.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

More cufflinks and fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

The "TH" Cufflink Maker Revealed

Heidell & Trow "Black and White" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Several years ago I wrote an article, The Mystery of the TH Maker Revisited, about the affinity between the cufflinks of an unidentified maker who signed pieces "TH" and those of the Irving Heidelscheimer company.

Since that time additional facts have come to light and the identity of the "TH" maker has been revealed.  Earlier this year while reviewing early issues of the Jewelers Circular (a jewelry trade journal founded in 1869) I came across an intriguing notice in a 1919 issue reporting that the Irving Manufacturing Co. (formerly Irving Heidelscheimer) had incorporated and changed its name to Heidell & Trow Co.  The new firm was to maintain the workshop and operations of the predecessor and was to be managed by Irving Heidell and George Swift Trow.  Heidell & Trow seemed a likely suspect for the mysterious "TH" maker.

Heidell & Trow "Anthemion Square" Cufflinks circa 1925

Further research confirmed that in 1922 Heidell & Trow registered the "T over H" trademark for use with jewelry.  A copy of the trademark registration notice is shown below and several further examples of Heidell & Trow cufflinks follow.

Heidell & Trow trademark registration.

Heidell & Trow "Rippling Pond" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Heidell & Trow "Black & Gold" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Heidell & Trow "Big Bang" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Additional examples of vintage cufflinks by Heidell & Trow and other makers can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

The Back Story - Radiant Jazz Cufflinks

Radiant Jazz Art Deco cufflink.

The imagination and creativity of the cufflink makers of the late 19th and early 20th century is undoubted.  A quick scan of the Antique Cufflink Gallery is all that is needed to confirm.  What may be lesser known is that the same level of inventiveness and artistry is often evident in the linkages devised to hold the fronts and backs of the cufflinks together.

A hundred years ago cufflinks makers wrestled with two challenges:  to create cufflinks that could be easily put on a cuff and that would also remain safely in place when worn.  The inventive spirit of the age was brought to bear on this issue and a great variety of linkage designs and mechanisms was created.  The striking Art Deco cufflink pictured offers an interesting example of linkage design.  It was created around 1925 by the Richardson Manufacturing Co.

Reverse of Art Deco cufflink.

The linkage features a dramatically cut-out bridge that is hinged at one end and rigidly attached at the other. The hinged end allows the top of the cufflink to lie flush against the bridge as it passes through a button hole and the rigid end serves as a "push plate" allowing the wearer's thumb to help ease the cufflink through the cuff. As more angular, sometimes geometrically complex cufflinks came into fashion during the Art Deco era a little encouragement of the cufflink through the cuff was sometimes needed.

Once the front of the cufflink passed through the button hole, the top opened and lay flat against the cuff securely anchoring the cufflink in place. The design is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. The same careful thought that was applied to the design and crafting of the finely decorated tops was also applied to the linkages.

More examples of fine antique cufflinks can be found

in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a colorful rainbow of opal, amethyst, jade and heliotrope cufflinks along with a classic button-style tuxedo set from Carrington & Company.

Opal Fireworks  Brilliant opals dance with color like fireworks in the night sky.  A mesmerizing display of subtle flashes of blue, green and red that is beautifully captivating.  Custom crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1975   Cost:  $875

Tiger Eye  Beautiful tiger eyes set in finely crafted yellow gold.  The tiger eyes have dark brown/black edges shading to golden honey centers.  These elegant cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1920.   Cost:  $885

Carrington Jade II  Elegantly colorful cufflinks with striking mottled green jades set in gold.  The mysterious green depths of the jade play beautifully against the warm glow of the yellow gold.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $675

Heliotrope  Mesmerizing heliotropes (also known as bloodstones) smolder like burning embers amid ashes.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1940.   Cost:  $785

Carrington Classic  A full dress set with pearl and mother-and-pearl centers surrounded by classic reeded and tied borders.  Created with Carrington & Co's inimitable sense of design and craftsmanship in 14kt white and rose gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  $2,650

Purple and Gold  Regal purple amethysts set in brightly polished yellow gold.  These elegant cufflinks were created by Carrington & Co. 14kt gold,  circa 1900.   Cost:  $725

In the Antique Brooch Gallery a stunning Art Nouveau amethyst brooch by Whiteside & Blank and a Hans Brassler coral brooch have been added.

Amethyst and Pearls  Beautiful Art Nouveau curves envelop a vibrant amethyst.  The flowing design is accented with four small pearls.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $625

Brassler Coral  A glowing coral cabochon amid an intriguing geometry of neoclassical and east Asian motifs. An early Art Deco brooch created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost:  $725

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include striking purple enamel and pearl cufflinks by Carrington & Co. and elegant moss agate links by Larter & Sons.

Carrington Purple  Striking purple enamel above a finely engraved pattern of radiating scalloped circles centered with a small luminous pearl.  A beautiful example of the guilloche enamel cufflinks of the early 1900s. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  Sold

Moss Agate   Elegant moss agate cabochons set in polished gold bezels.  The moss agates swirl with beautiful green strands reminiscent of seaweed floating in filtered sunlight beneath the ocean's surface. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1950.   Cost:  Sold

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery there is Atlas supporting the weight of the world, a fiery Art Nouveau chimera by Carter, Howe and a fierce lion clutching a diamond.

Atlas and the Pillars  Atlas carries the weight of the world on his shoulders framed by two classically-inspired pillars and a soaring arch.  This finely modeled, richly detailed stickpin is a miniature work of sculpture crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.   Cost:  $485

Fiery Dragon  A fierce dragon with a fiery red eye and a curling tail of flame-like acanthus leaves perches atop a finely sculpted Art Nouveau stickpin. Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $425

Fierce Lion  A lion fiercely grasps a diamond in his snarling maw while staring menacingly with fiery red eyes.  The lion is beautifully sculpted with a finely detailed mane and an intensely watchful gaze.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.   Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Tuxedo Sets, Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include several elegant Carrington Tuxedo Sets and striking Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved designs by Kohn & Co. and Jacob Hookaylo.

Onyx and Diamond   The alluring interplay of black onyx, sparkling diamonds and the brilliance of platinum give this tuxedo set an inescapable Art Deco elegance.  Created by Carrington & Co. in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  Sold

Carrington Mother of Pearl  Creamy white mother of pearl with beveled edges and gentle concave centers framed by bright white gold borders.  A striking tuxedo set in the elegant Art Moderne style.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.   Cost:  $1,325

Garlands and Swags  Festive garlands and swags surround small pinwheels or stars.  Twining, foliate scrolls fill the hexagonal borders like streamers at a party.  Celebratory cufflinks perfect for any joyous occasion.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $845

Gold and Black  Mesmerizing Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved centers surrounded by eight-sided borders and black enamel accents.  The inescapable elegance of Art Deco design!  Created by Kohn and Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  $765

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery a mesmerizing Hans Brassler jade stickpin and bright sapphire-and-diamond stickpin have been added.

Brassler Jade  A nephrite jade glows with the dark green of the forest undergrowth in a golden setting of laurel leaves and tightly scrolled corners.  An elegant stickpin created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $465

Sapphire and Diamond  An Art Deco stickpin set with a rich blue man-made sapphire and a sparkling diamond.  The bright white gold setting is finely engraved with dramatic scrolls and geometric motifs.  Fine wire filigree work surrounds the sapphire.    Cost:  $465

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Brooches and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Art Deco cufflinks set with sapphires and diamonds and a Carter dress set with smoky mother-of-pearl.

Sapphires and Diamonds  Beautifully engraved platinum cufflinks with striking blue sapphires, sparkling white diamonds and borders decorated in the best Art Deco taste.  Created in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  Sold

Carter Twilight   Dark mother-of-pearl set in white gold borders engraved with intricate, swirling scrolls.  The iridescent twilight shades of the mother-of-pearl contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the white gold.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery we have added an elegant tourmaline stickpin by Hans Brassler and a striking lapis lazuli stickpin by Hayden Wheeler.

Brassler Tourmaline  A verdant green tourmaline framed by a golden laurel wreath capped with inward turning scrolls.  A wonderful example of Hans Brassler's elegantly imaginative interpretation of Neoclassic design.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Midnight Blue  Soaring Art Nouveau "wings" cradle a midnight blue lapis lazuli in an exotic flower or perhaps flames.  The deep blue lapis glistens with small bits of pyrite (fool's gold) that sparkle like stars in the night sky.  A small silvery pearl is set below.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  Sold

In the Antique Brooch Gallery we added an elegant Art Deco amethyst brooch.

Art Deco Amethyst  A striking Art Deco brooch set with a pale lavender amethyst. The glow of the subtly textured gold beautifully offsets the color of the gemstone.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.     Cost:  $365

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries