Thursday, May 9, 2024

The Dazzle and The Shimmer - Ziething Cufflinks


Ziething "Bull's Eye" cufflinks circa 1925.


Ziething & Company is one of the lesser known makers of fine cufflinks from the first half of the 20th century.  The firm created intricately engraved cuff jewels with beautifully engine-turned centers often surrounded by boldly engraved white gold borders.  When brightly polished these elegant cufflinks literally dazzle and shimmer with reflected light.


Ziething Sapphire Jungle cufflinks. (CLJ9265)

Ziething "Jungle Sapphire" cufflink circa 1925


Ziething & Co. was based in Newark, New Jersey and specialized in creating 10kt and 14kt gold jewelry.  The style and linkage of the firm's cufflinks suggests they were created mostly during the 1920s and early 1930s.  I suspect Ziething, like a number of the other cufflink makers in the early 20th century, did not survive the Great Depression of the 1930s.


The maker's mark for Ziething & Co. is the letter "Z" in a diamond-shaped surround.  The maker's mark is usually found stamped in the middle of the bridge.  The other side of the bridge is stamped with the gold purity mark, "10K".  The Ziething maker's mark is sometimes misidentified as an "N" in an elongated diamond.


Ziething "Spider Web" cufflinks, circa 1925.


Several years ago a reader of the original blog post for this article kindly provided the following background information about Ziething & Co. and its eponymous founder:

"It's good to see the cufflinks by Ziething & Co.  The business was started by my Gt Gt Gt uncle William Henry Ziething (1875-1944) who was brought to America by his father Henry Ziething in about 1884.  William was born in Portsmouth UK. Henry did not get on with his wife and told her that he was taking William & his sister Ada for a holiday to Germany.  They actually went to Newark, New Jersey where they settled.  William & Ada's mother Amelia never knew what happened to the family and assumed that they had drowned on there way to Germany."


Ziething white and yellow gold cufflinks. (J8969)

More elegant examples of cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. can be found on the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Friday, April 5, 2024

A Brief History of Carrington & Co.


In 1921 Carrington & Company, one of the preeminent makers of cufflinks, dress sets and other fine gentleman's accessories during the early decades of the 20th century, celebrated the 50th anniversary of its founding. The Jewelers' Circular, a jewelry trade journal, marked the occasion with the following history of the firm's first 50 years and the career of the firm's venerable leader, Charles L. Carrington.


Charles Lewis Carrington
Charles L. Carrington

TO CELEBRATE 50TH YEAR*

Carrington & Co Newark NJ Will Mark
Golden Anniversary of Establishment
of the Business in July. 

    During the month of July the well known firm of Carrington & Co. Inc., manufacturing jewelers, Newark, N.J., will celebrate its 50th anniversary in business.  Another note worthy event is the fact that EL Carrington who became a partner in the firm three years after the business was originally established still takes an active part and is at present the vice president

   The business was originally started in July, 1871, by Alfred P Mayhew and Isaac Leonard under the style of Mayhew & Leonard.  The first location of the concern was an entire floor in a building at that time known as 19 Green St. which is now part of the site of the present City Hall. 

   It was while C.L. Carrington was traveling for the old firm of George O. Street & Son, in 1874, that he became interested in the line manufactured by Mayhew & Leonard.  Through several odd coincidences Mr Carrington determined to affiliate himself with the Mayhew & Leonard concern and immediately upon his return from a trip he endeavored to obtain a partnership in the business.  After some effort he finally met with success and thereafter the firm became known as Mayhew, Leonard & Carrington.  They still remained at the same address and in 1896 Mr Mayhew and Mr Carrington bought out the interest of their partner, Mr. Leonard.  That partnership continued under the name of Mayhew & Carrington until 1900 when Mr Mayhew retired from the business.  In that year Mr Carrington admitted his two sons E.T. and C.B. Carrington as members of the firm and thereafter the business was carried on under the style of Carrington & Co.  In the same year the business was incorporated under the laws of New Jersey and in 1901 the firm vacated their quarters on Green St and built a large factory at 42 Walnut St. which is still the home of the Carrington concern.

   Since 1917 the firm has used the style of Carrington & Co., Inc. The present officers of the concern are: President, E.T. Carrington; vice president, C.L. Carrington; treasurer, C.B. Carrington, and secretary, W.C. Carrington.  The elder Mr Carrington is now 75 years old, but is still active in business and goes about his regular duties at the factory each day.  He entered the jewelry business in 1866 when he obtained a position as clerk with the old firm of Tomes & Malvain, importers and retailers on Maiden Lane.  The following year he went with Fellows & Ostrander which firm was also located on the "Lane".  He remained with this house for three years and in 1870 he took a position as traveling salesman with George O Street & Son. He remained with this concern until 1874 when he joined the Mayhew & Leonard firm as a partner.

* This article first appeared in the June 1st, 1921 issue of the Jewelers' Circular.


*****

Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set (DS8478)

An elegant Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set
retailed by Tiffany & Co. around 1925.


Examples of Carrington cufflinks, dress sets and stickpins can be found in the Antique Jewelry Galleries and the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Saturday, July 4, 2020

Peace and Hope in an Earlier Time of Pandemic



Above is the cover of the 50th anniversary issue of the The Jewelers' Circular, a jewelry trade publication founded in 1869. The anniversary issue appeared shortly after World War I ended with the Armistice of 1918. The cover reflects the celebratory optimism of the time with the hope that economic prosperity and growth would return, advancements in science and technology would brighten the future, and world peace would prevail.

But, it was also a time of uncertainty and doubt as the world endured the ravages of the misnamed "Spanish flu" pandemic. By 1921 an estimated 500 million people had been infected with the virulent strain of the H1N1 virus (close to a third of the world's population) and 50 million people had perished throughout the world. In many ways this magazine cover speaks to the hopes and challenges of our own time as well as its own.

The artist who created the cover was Hans Brassler, a noted artist-jeweler of the early 20th century. Brassler was a gifted Renaissance man who in addition to creating covers for The Jewelers' Circular, designed silver flatware for Tiffany & Company, founded The Brassler Company in 1909 to create artistic, finely crafted jewels, collaborated in the 1930s to create a magnificent silver and gold dinner service for the auto magnate Lawrence Fisher, and designed jewel-set hood ornaments for Cadillacs as well as stained glass windows for the Detroit Cathedral. He was also the father of the noted 20th-century sculptor Margaret Brassler Kane.

Wishing everyone a happy Independence Day and peaceful and safe weekend!

Examples of the fine jewels created by Hans Brassler can found in the Antiques and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Monday, June 22, 2020

The House Charles Lewis Carrington Built


Tracking down and researching antique cufflinks is an adventure that takes you in many interesting directions.  Sometimes you follow an unpromising lead or seemingly insignificant clue to a surprising discovery.  The following architect's rendering of a fine Victorian house is the result of one such adventure.

Charles L. Carrington house.
The house Charles Lewis Carrington built in 1885.
Please click rendering for an enlarged view.

In 1885 Charles Lewis Carrington, the eventual founder of Carrington & Company, was a partner in the jewelry manufacturer Mayhew, Leonard & Carrington.  Since arriving in New York City shortly after the Civil War, his rise in the jewelry trade had been steady and impressive.  In 1885 he decided to celebrate his success by building a stately home for his family in Newark, New Jersey.

The following note about the Carrington house with the above rendering was published in the August, 1885 issue of American Architects and Building News.

HOUSE FOR MR. CHARLES L. CARRINGTON,  HIGH ST., NEAR
CLINTON AVE., NEWARK, N.J.  MR. VAN CAMPEN TAYLOR
ARCHITECT, NEWARK, N.J.
The house is now in course of erection on one of the principal residence streets of the city.  The first story will be built of North River brick, laid in red mortar, with Belleville stone trimmings.  The second story, etc., will be of frame shingled with cedar shingles.  The roof will be slated. The interior will be finished with painted walls, tiled fireplaces and hard-wood stairs and mantels.  The cost will be about $12,000.


By 1900 Mayhew and Leonard had retired and Charles Carrington reformed the firm as Carrington & Co. with his sons serving in various positions. During the first half of the 20th century Carrington & Co. was one of the preeminent maker's of fine cufflinks and dress sets.  Carrington remained active with the firm and lived in his house on High Street until his death in 1924.
-

Riviera Hotel circa 1925 with Carrington house to the right.
Riviera Hotel with Carrington house to the right, circa 1925.

Old postcards of Newark's storied Riviera Hotel (located at the corner of Clinton Ave. and High Street) show the Carrington house just to the right of the hotel.  The house was knocked down some time after 1950 and in the 1980s High Street was renamed Dr. Martin Luther King Boulevard.  A recent tour of the area on Google maps suggests that the former house site is now a small parking lot.

Frequent visitors are aware of my enthusiasm for the cufflinks and other jewels created by Carrington & Company.  Examples of Carrington's work can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry and Antique Cufflink Galleries.

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

Happy Saint Dunstan's Day!


St. Dunstan tweaking the devil's nose.

In the Middle Ages St. Dunstan (909 - 988) was recognized as the patron saint of English goldsmiths and jewelers.  A man ahead of his time, Dunstan was a Renaissance man five hundred years before the Renaissance.  He served as an adviser and state minister to several English kings and as Archbishop of Canterbury in the late 10th century.  St Dunstan was also a noted harp player and composer of hymns, a gifted writer and illustrator of manuscripts and an accomplished silversmith.

May 19th is celebrated as St Dunstan's Day. This is why before 1660 the date letters used in English hallmarking ran from May 19th of one year to May 18th of the next year.  After the English Restoration, Charles II decided it would be better if the date letters ran from his birthday (May 29th) instead.  It is nice to be king.

Pictured above is St. Dunstan engaged in one of his favorite activites - tormenting the devil.  Here he is pictured in an early 14th century manuscript tweaking the devil's nose with a smithy's fiery tongs.  Did I forget to mention St. Dunstan was also an accomplished blacksmith?

At the Antique Cufflink Gallery we hope everyone enjoys a
pleasant and safe St. Dunstan's Day!

Monday, April 27, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentlemen's accessories during the late 19th century and for much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in lesser metals.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of handsomely designed, finely crafted men's rings reflecting the arts and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements matching the beauty and themes of the rings.  Below is Larter & Sons' advertisement summarizing the rings in the collection.  Advertisements for the individual rings can be found in earlier posts.

Larter Classical Revival ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed in Larter & Sons Period Rings

 Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels

Sunday, April 19, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings - Louis XV


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentlemen's accessories during the late 19th century and through much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in base metal.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of handsomely designed, finely crafted men's rings reflecting the motifs and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements matching the beauty and themes of the rings.  Below is the advertisement for Larter & Son's ring inspired by the reign of Louis XV - the ring reflects Larter's interpretation of the curving lines, airiness and asymmetry of the Louis Quinze style.

Larter Classical Revival ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed at Larter & Sons - Louis XV Revival Ring.  Over the next several weeks I will post the advertisements for the other Period Rings. 

Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Sunday, April 12, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings - Classical Revival


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentleman's accessories during the late 19th century and through much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in base metal.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of handsomely designed, finely crafted men's rings reflecting the motifs and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements that matched the beauty and theme of the rings.  Below is the advertisement for Larter's ring inspired by the Classical Revival of the late 1700s - a period the jeweler characterized as an "age of utmost charm and refinement."

Larter Classical Revival ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed at Larter & Sons - Classical Revival Ring.  Over the next several weeks I will post the advertisements for the other Period Rings. 

Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Sunday, April 5, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings - Gothic Era


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentleman's accessories during the late 19th century and through much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in base metal.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of finely designed and crafted men's rings reflecting the motifs and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements that matched the beauty and theme of the rings.  Below is the advertisement for Larter's ring inspired by the Gothic period.

Larter Ancient Egypt ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed at Larter & Sons - Gothic Ring.  Over the next several weeks I will post the advertisements for the other Period Rings. 

Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Saturday, April 4, 2020

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Dress Sets, Brooches and Stickpins


Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegantly striking cufflinks from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras.

Art Nouveau diamond cufflinks. (J9526)
Art Nouveau Curves  Elegant, free flowing scrolls accented with a sparkling star-set diamond.  The sinuous, untamed curves are a hallmark of Art Nouveau design.  Finely crafted  in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $865

Sapphire and frosted glass cufflinks. (CL9528)
Sapphires and Stars  Bright blue sapphires set in frosted glass disks.  The dramatic effect is like a distant star shining through wispy clouds in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.
Cost:  $875

Regal blue guilloche enamel cufflinks. (J9525)
Regal Blue  Twilight blue enamels set in boldly sculpted gold cufflinks.  Beneath the enamel a finely engraved radiating pattern shimmers like a distant star in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.
Cost:  $925

Larter Art Nouveau lucky cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold. (J9533)
Feeling Lucky  A four-leaf clover, lucky horseshoe and wishbone assure the wearer of these Art Nouveau cufflinks the best of good fortune.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.  Cost:  $745


In the Tuxedo and Dress Set Gallery you will find a recently added a moss agate tuxedo set and a full dress set with onyx centers and ornate borders by Krementz.

Larter Bros. moss agate tuxedo set. (J9534)
Moss Agates  Mesmerizing moss agates with tangles of swirling green inclusions reminiscent of floating seaweed.  This elegant tuxedo set was created by Larter Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost: $1,375

Art Deco onyx dress set. (D9524)
Onyx and Scrolls  Dark onyx centers surrounded by white gold borders with an elaborate scroll-and-berry design.   An elegant set in the striking black-and-white style of the Jazz Age crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  Sold


New in the Brooch and Pin Gallery is an Art Nouveau brooch with an amethyst, a beautiful Carter, Howe bar pin with a sapphire and fine enamel work, and an Art Deco circle brooch set with sapphires.

Art Nouveau amethyst and enamel brooch. (J9530)
Art Nouveau Amethyst  A vibrant amethyst set amid elegant guilloche enamel work framed by a border of gold bands and interlacing Art Nouveau curves.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $925

Edwardian brooch with sapphire and pearls.(J9510)
Edwardian Sparkle  A beautifully enameled bar pin set with a blue sapphire and two pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  Cost: $485

Art Deco sapphire circle brooch. (J9521)
Sapphires and Filigree  An elegant Art Deco circle brooch with sparkling man-made sapphires set in intricate filigree work framed by stylized leaf-and-vine borders.  Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $365


New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery is a striking French Art Nouveau stickpin with a chimera clutching a stickpin in its maw.

French chimera and pearl stickpin (SP9536)
Chimera and Pearl  A fierce dragon clutches a luminous pearl in its maw.  This golden chimera is a wonderful example of the dramatic and at times terrifying work of French fin de siecle jewelers.  Crafted  in 18kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Sunday, March 29, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings - The Renaissance


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentleman's accessories during the late 19th century and through much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in base metal.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of finely designed and crafted men's rings reflecting the motifs and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements that matched the beauty and theme of the rings.  Below is the advertisement for Larter's ring inspired by the Renaissance.

Larter Ancient Egypt ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed at Larter & Sons - Renaissance Ring.  Over the next several weeks I will post the advertisements for the other Period Rings. 

Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Sunday, March 22, 2020

Larter & Sons Period Rings - Ancient Egypt


Larter & Sons was a prolific maker of cufflinks and other gentleman's accessories during the late 19th century and through much of the 20th century.  Their output ranged from fine gold and gem-set cufflinks and dress sets to less expensive, but equally well made, cufflinks and accessories crafted in base metal.

In the early 1920s the firm created a wonderful collection of finely designed and crafted men's rings reflecting the motifs and architecture of past historic periods.  These rings were announced to the jewelry trade with a series of graphically striking advertisements that matched the beauty and theme of the rings.  Below is the advertisement for Larter's ring inspired by ancient Egypt.

Larter Ancient Egypt ring advertisement.

A full size rendition of this advertisement can be viewed at Larter & Sons - Egyptian Revival Ring.  Over the next several weeks I will post the advertisements for the other Period Rings. 

Elegant cufflinks created by Later & Sons and other fine jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Happy St Patrick's Day!


Larter Art Nouveau lucky cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold. (9533)

Wishing all a happy, healthy and lucky St Patrick's Day!

This lucky pair of cufflinks features a four-leaf clover, horseshoe and wishbone to help bring the wearer good fortune.  The influence of Art Nouveau design can be seen in the sinuous curves of the lucky clover's stem as it flows into the border of the cufflinks.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

More cufflinks and fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Sunday, August 25, 2019

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Dress Sets, Stickpins and Brooches.


Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include shimmering moss agate cufflinks, as well as sporting cufflinks for the fishing and golf enthusiast.

Sloan anglers cufflinks. (J9513)
Angler's Delight  Fish energetically fighting the line and finely detailed fishing lures inhabit reverse intaglios set atop these aquatic cufflinks.  Created by Sloan & Company in 14kt gold circa 1950.  Cost:  $865

Moss agate cufflinks. (J9518)
Moss Agate  Mesmerizing moss agates set in yellow gold.  The moss agates swirl with a tangle of green inclusions evocative of seaweed floating in filtered sunlight along the bottom of the sea.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.  Cost:  Sold

Lenox Club golf cufflinks. (J9465)
Lenox Golf  Victorian cufflinks celebrating an important milestone at the Lenox Golf Club in the Berkshires - perhaps a club championship or course opening.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1897.  Cost:  $925


In the Tuxedo and Dress Set Gallery you will find a recently added onyx and diamond tuxedo set, a Carrington pearl and mother-of-pearl tuxedo set, and a full dress set with shimmering moonstones set in platinum, also by Carrington.

Onyx and diamond tuxedo set. (J9497)
Onyx and Diamond  Sculpted onyx centers set with sparkling diamonds surrounded by bright white gold borders of alternating raised and recessed edges.  An elegant study in black and white. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1950.  Cost: $1,425

Carrington mother-of-pearl and pearl cufflinks. (J9429)
Classic Pearls  An elegant tuxedo set with shimmering mother-of-pearl and pearl centers surrounded by white gold borders polished to a bright finish.  Created by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1930.  
Cost: $1,265

Carrington moonstone dress set. (J9512)
Carrington Moonstone  The ethereal light of moonstone set in the cool brilliance of platinum reflecting the elegance of Art Deco design with a touch of moonlit romance.  Crafted  in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $3,250


New in the Brooch and Pin Gallery is an Art Nouveau brooch set with sapphires and a pearl, a Hans Brassler brooch with diamonds and a sapphire, and a Brassler pin inspired by the ancient world with a modern twist.

Art Nouveau sapphire and pearl brooch. (J9240)
Sapphires and Pearl  A dramatic Art Nouveau brooch with dark sapphires and a pearl set amid flowing golden curves reminiscent of a moth's wings.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.  Cost:  $445

Hans Brassler pearl brooch. (J9387)
Ancient Pearl  A hint of ancient Egypt, or perhaps it is ancient Greece, graces this diminutive pearl brooch created by Hans Brassler.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  Cost:  $365

Brassler sapphire and diamond brooch. (J9324)
Sapphire and Diamond A vibrant sapphire and sparkling diamonds set in a "trellis" brooch created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost: $485


New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery is an elegant lapis lazuli and amethyst stickpins created by Hans Brassler and an Art Deco stickpin fit for a pharaoh.

Brassler lapis lazuli stickpin. (J9519)
Medieval Elegance  A rich blue lapis lazuli framed in an elegant setting reflecting the late Victorian interest in the arts and designs of the Middle Ages.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.  
Cost:  $465

Hans Brassler amethyst and diamond stickpin. (J9501)
Amethyst and Diamond  A rich purple amethyst rests between rising volutes accented with laurel leaves.  Beneath the laurel wreath a small diamond sparkles.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  
Cost:  $525

Art Deco Egyptain Revival Stickpin (J9517).
Egyptian Deco  A golden pharaoh with an elaborate layered headdress peers from above a small pearl cradled in a torc or "C" scroll.  This classic example of Art Deco sculpture was created by Bippart, Griscom in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.  Cost:  $385

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Sunday, August 18, 2019

The "TH" Cufflink Maker Revealed


Heidell & Trow "Black and White" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Black and White" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Several years ago I wrote an article, The Mystery of the TH Maker Revisited, about the affinity between the cufflinks of an unidentified maker who signed pieces "TH" and those of the Irving Heidelscheimer company.

Since that time additional facts have come to light and the identity of the "TH" maker has been revealed.  Earlier this year while reviewing early issues of the Jewelers Circular (a jewelry trade journal founded in 1869) I came across an intriguing notice in a 1919 issue reporting that the Irving Manufacturing Co. (formerly Irving Heidelscheimer) had incorporated and changed its name to Heidell & Trow Co.  The new firm was to maintain the workshop and operations of the predecessor and was to be managed by Irving Heidell and George Swift Trow.  Heidell & Trow seemed a likely suspect for the mysterious "TH" maker.

Heidell & Trow "Anthemion Square" Cufflinks circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Anthemion Square" Cufflinks circa 1925
Further research confirmed that in 1922 Heidell & Trow registered the "T over H" trademark for use with jewelry.  A copy of the trademark registration notice is shown below and several further examples of Heidell & Trow cufflinks follow.

Heidell & Trow trademark registration.
Heidell & Trow trademark registration.

Heidell & Trow "Rippling Pond" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Rippling Pond" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Black & Gold" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Black & Gold" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Big Bang" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Big Bang" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Additional examples of vintage cufflinks by Heidell & Trow and other makers can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

The Back Story - Radiant Jazz Cufflinks



http://www.jewelryexpert.com/catalog/Richardson-Radiant-Wave-Cufflinks-J9286.htm
Radiant Jazz Art Deco cufflink.

The imagination and creativity of the cufflink makers of the late 19th and early 20th century is undoubted.  A quick scan of the Antique Cufflink Gallery is all that is needed to confirm.  What may be lesser known is that the same level of inventiveness and artistry is often evident in the linkages devised to hold the fronts and backs of the cufflinks together.

A hundred years ago cufflinks makers wrestled with two challenges:  to create cufflinks that could be easily put on a cuff and that would also remain safely in place when worn.  The inventive spirit of the age was brought to bear on this issue and a great variety of linkage designs and mechanisms was created.  The striking Art Deco cufflink pictured offers an interesting example of linkage design.  It was created around 1925 by the Richardson Manufacturing Co.


Art Deco cufflink, circa 1925
Reverse of Art Deco cufflink.

The linkage features a dramatically cut-out bridge that is hinged at one end and rigidly attached at the other. The hinged end allows the top of the cufflink to lie flush against the bridge as it passes through a button hole and the rigid end serves as a "push plate" allowing the wearer's thumb to help ease the cufflink through the cuff. As more angular, sometimes geometrically complex cufflinks came into fashion during the Art Deco era a little encouragement of the cufflink through the cuff was sometimes needed.

Once the front of the cufflink passed through the button hole, the top opened and lay flat against the cuff securely anchoring the cufflink in place. The design is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. The same careful thought that was applied to the design and crafting of the finely decorated tops was also applied to the linkages.


More examples of fine antique cufflinks can be found


Saturday, October 13, 2018

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches


Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a colorful rainbow of opal, amethyst, jade and heliotrope cufflinks along with a classic button-style tuxedo set from Carrington & Company.


Custom opal cufflinks. (J9468)
Opal Fireworks  Brilliant opals dance with color like fireworks in the night sky.  A mesmerizing display of subtle flashes of blue, green and red that is beautifully captivating.  Custom crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1975   Cost:  $875


George O. Street tiger eye cufflinks. (J9408)

Tiger Eye  Beautiful tiger eyes set in finely crafted yellow gold.  The tiger eyes have dark brown/black edges shading to golden honey centers.  These elegant cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1920.   Cost:  $885


Carrington jade cufflinks. (J9462)

Carrington Jade II  Elegantly colorful cufflinks with striking mottled green jades set in gold.  The mysterious green depths of the jade play beautifully against the warm glow of the yellow gold.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $675


Riker Bros. heliotrope cufflinks. (J9460)

Heliotrope  Mesmerizing heliotropes (also known as bloodstones) smolder like burning embers amid ashes.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1940.   Cost:  $785


Carrington white tie dress set. (J9419)

Carrington Classic  A full dress set with pearl and mother-and-pearl centers surrounded by classic reeded and tied borders.  Created with Carrington & Co's inimitable sense of design and craftsmanship in 14kt white and rose gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  $2,650


Carrington amethyst cufflinks. (J9458)

Purple and Gold  Regal purple amethysts set in brightly polished yellow gold.  These elegant cufflinks were created by Carrington & Co. 14kt gold,  circa 1900.   Cost:  $725



In the Antique Brooch Gallery a stunning Art Nouveau amethyst brooch by Whiteside & Blank and a Hans Brassler coral brooch have been added.

Art Nouveau amethyst and pearl brooch. (J9325)

Amethyst and Pearls  Beautiful Art Nouveau curves envelop a vibrant amethyst.  The flowing design is accented with four small pearls.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $625


Brassler coral brooch. (J9274)

Brassler Coral  A glowing coral cabochon amid an intriguing geometry of neoclassical and east Asian motifs. An early Art Deco brooch created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost:  $725


These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries