The Dazzle and The Shimmer - Ziething Cufflinks

Ziething "Bull's Eye" cufflinks circa 1925.

Ziething & Company is one of the lesser known makers of fine cufflinks from the first half of the 20th century.  The firm created intricately engraved cuff jewels with beautifully engine-turned centers often surrounded by boldly engraved white gold borders.  When brightly polished these elegant cufflinks literally dazzle and shimmer with reflected light.

Ziething "Jungle Sapphire" cufflink circa 1925

Ziething & Co. was based in Newark, New Jersey and specialized in creating 10kt and 14kt gold jewelry.  The style and linkage of the firm's cufflinks suggests they were created mostly during the 1920s and early 1930s.  I suspect Ziething, like a number of the other cufflink makers in the early 20th century, did not survive the Great Depression of the 1930s.

The maker's mark for Ziething & Co. is the letter "Z" in a diamond-shaped surround.  The maker's mark is usually found stamped in the middle of the bridge.  The other side of the bridge is stamped with the gold purity mark, "10K".  The Ziething maker's mark is sometimes misidentified as an "N" in an elongated diamond.

Ziething "Spider Web" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Several years ago a reader of the original blog post for this article kindly provided the following background information about Ziething & Co. and its eponymous founder:

"It's good to see the cufflinks by Ziething & Co.  The business was started by my Gt Gt Gt uncle William Henry Ziething (1875-1944) who was brought to America by his father Henry Ziething in about 1884.  William was born in Portsmouth UK. Henry did not get on with his wife and told her that he was taking William & his sister Ada for a holiday to Germany.  They actually went to Newark, New Jersey where they settled.  William & Ada's mother Amelia never knew what happened to the family and assumed that they had drowned on there way to Germany."

More elegant examples of cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. can be found on the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

While the last several weeks have been busy with the Christmas rush and year-end chores, I've added several pairs of cufflinks to the Antique Cufflink Gallery.  I hope everyone enjoyed the best of the holidays and is looking forward to a joyous New Year!

Carrington Buttons  Elegant abalone centers carved to resemble the traditional buttons on a cuff.  The iridescence of the abalone plays nicely against the reeded-and-tied white gold borders.   Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1940.    Cost:  $825

Golden Garlands  Elegant gold cufflinks with finely engraved centers bursting with garlands and swags.  Bold octagonal borders of diamond shapes frame the design.    Cost:  $425

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

The Intricate Cufflinks of the Art Deco Era

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

The Intricate Cufflinks
of the Art Deco Era

Among collectors of fine timepieces, watches with intricate mechanisms and a plethora of features are known as "complications." The term is also aptly applied to a group of richly detailed cufflinks created during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s.

Frank Krementz cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design fervently believed that no visible surface should be left unadorned. The more decoration and embellishment, the better. Applying this design dictum to the small area of a cufflink resulted in mesmerizing cuff jewels.

A master of this style was the cufflink maker Frank Krementz. The firm was adept at combining intricate geometric patterns with stylized floral elements to create striking cufflinks with an incredible, almost obsessive, level of detail. The two cufflinks pictured above are beautiful examples.

L. Fritschze labyrinthine cufflinks, circa 1925.

A contemporary, but less prolific, cufflink maker was L. Fritschze and Company. Based in Newark, New Jersey (as were Krementz and Ziething), the firm specialized in cufflinks with dramatic geometric patterns. One's eye (and imagination) is inescapably drawn into the intricate, labyrinth-like designs. The cufflink pictured above is a striking example.

I have to confess a particular fondness for the Fritschze cufflinks. A fondness that only increases with their relative rarity.

Fritschze marquise and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Art Deco "complications" were usually crafted in white gold or a combination of white over yellow gold. Commercially introduced around 1918, white gold is relatively hard compared to platinum and silver and crisply holds detailed, engraved designs. White gold also tarnishes slightly over time, throwing the intricately engraved patterns into high relief.

Ziething octagonal bull's eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

No discussion of intricate Jazz Age cufflinks would be complete without a few sparkling examples from Ziething & Company. The shimmering, abstract designs adorning Ziething cufflinks were created with a technique reminiscent of bright-cut engraving. As a result, the lively, sparkling designs appear to radiate and dance as they catch the light.

Jazzy Ziething cufflinks, circa 1925.

Some of Ziething & Company's finest work are striking two-tone cufflinks. In these the brightness of richly engraved white gold borders contrasts with the warmth of equally intricate yellow gold centers. Pictured above are two beautiful examples.

A final example of the intricate cufflinks of the Art Deco era. Crafted in white gold these cufflinks feature dramatic floral and cruciform centers above a field of concentric circles. The canted-corners are embellished with acanthus leaves (or possibly flaming scrolls) with elongated Greek key designs along the edges in between. One side is set with a small diamond. An awful lot of decoration for a very small piece of real estate!

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Wintry Cufflinks

Wintry Cufflinks

Since the beginning of the year we have had several snow falls. The woods are covered with knee-deep powder that is perfect for snowshoeing and watching the dogs play. In celebration of all the wintry white stuff, I have put together a small collection of platinum and white gold cufflinks that shimmer and sparkle like fresh snow.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss frosty octagons, circa 1925.

These brilliant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks sparkle with wintry elegance and pizazz. The frosty white cufflinks feature pendant garlands (mistletoe?) surrounding snowflake-like centers. A dramatic border of boxes and crosses frames the design. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.

Heidelshimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved with repeating sunrise or wave motifs and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. The diamonds are set in platinum bezels with mille grain edges. Created by Irving Heidelshimer in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Finely engraved "TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

The finely engraved centers of these cufflinks from the "TH" maker shimmer like fields of fresh snow in early morning sunlight. The Art Deco palmette corners and stylized water lily borders offer a sunny counterpoint to our wintry theme. An elegant pair of cufflinks adapted for all seasons. Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Fritschze frosty white gold and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Mysterious marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and undulating borders of stylized water lilies. A small diamond set in a box setting with mille grain edges sparkles in the center. Created by L. Frtischze & Co. in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Ziething intricately engraved cufflinks, circa 1925.

No note on shimmering wintry cufflinks is complete without a mesmerizing pair of intricately engraved cufflinks by Ziething & Company. Crafted in white gold, these cufflinks almost burst with myriad, exuberant designs. A wonderful example of the early Art Deco passion for rich details and embellished surfaces. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Deco ovals by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, beautiful blue guilloche enamels set in gold, Art Deco black-and-white cufflinks from Kohn & Company, and a jazzy pair of Ziething octagons.

Art Deco Ovals! Striking Art Deco cufflinks with a variety of design motifs ranging from hypnotic centers to the dramatic black enamel accents just inside gold dimpled borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Regal Blue! A regal pairing of blue and yellow. Elegant gold cufflinks with translucent blue enamels. Beneath the enamels is an intricate guilloche pattern of radiating stars or suns. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.




In Black and White! Dramatic engraved pinstripes with contrasting black enamel bands and elegant Art Deco borders. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1930.




Jazzy Pizzazz! The word "pizzazz" could have been invented to describe these jazzy cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. during the Roaring 20s. The pair features dramatic star burst centers and elegant Art Deco borders. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1925

In addtion to the above cufflinks, I recently added a striking gargoyle
stick pin to the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include ferocious winged lions, beautiful Moss Agates from Sansbury & Nellis, elegant onyx and gold octagons, and jazzy white and yellow gold cufflinks by Ziething.

Roaring Lions! A menagerie of mythological and exotic creatures inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with avian features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.




Moss Agate II Beautiful antique cufflinks featuring fine Moss Agates with the appearence of dark green seaweed floating in sunlit water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Elegant Onyx! Some of the most elegant cufflink designs are the simplest. This pair of antique cufflinks features creamy black onyx set in octagonal yellow gold frames. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Golden Ovals! Jazzy white and yellow gold cufflinks featuring radiant yellow gold centers surrounded by dramatically engraved white gold borders. A beautiful example of jazzy Art Deco design. Created by Ziething & Company in 10kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Windows to the Past

Art Nouveau cufflink, circa 1900.

Antique Cufflinks:
Windows to the Past

Several months ago I wrote about the artistry of antique cufflinks. The beauty and design of antique cufflinks are undeniably captivating. History, along with adornment, are also factors that draw one to these miniature jewels from the past. These three factors - Art, History and Adornment - largely explain the pleasant surprise (the"AHA effect") experienced by many when first viewing antique cufflinks. Today I will briefly discuss the historic appeal of antique cufflinks.

Antique cufflinks are windows into the past. They are miniature links to the past that reflect not just earlier fashions and tastes, but the enthusiasms and aspirations of the people who wore them. Consider the exotic mysticism of the Art Nouveau cufflinks pictured above. Or, the jazzy elegance of the brightly engraved cufflinks from the 1920s shown below. Each wonderfully captures the the spirit, the zeitgeist of its era.

Jazzy Ziething white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

In addition to reflecting the spirit of an age, antique cufflinks often celebrated significant personal and public events in the life of the wearer. Appropriately known as "commemoratives," these cufflinks recorded events in the nation's history, important graduations and reunions, and corporate milestones. Often the commemorated event is easily recognized. Sometimes it remains shrouded in mystery.

Commemorative cufflinks, circa 1915.

Pictured above is a silver-gilt cufflink featuring an impish fellow crowned with a laurel wreath. A scroll marked "degree" or "decree" is supported by his left hand. In his right hand he holds a long staff and his shirt is emblazoned with "99". The left border of the cufflinks is annotated "QUINDECENNIAL" signifying the 15th anniversary of an important event. What the important event was I have not been able to determine. Any thoughts?

Masonic cufflinks, circa 1880.

Closely related to commemorative cufflinks are links that signified the wearer's membership in a fraternal or social organization. In the late 19th and early 20th century there was a blossoming in clubs, lodges, granges and civic organizations. America was a nation of joiners and membership in a fraternal or social organization was often announced with a pair of suitably adorned cufflinks. Judging from the numerous examples of elegant Masonic cufflinks that survive, it is reasonable to surmise that the Masons were fervid cufflink wearers. Pictured above is a wonderfully designed and engraved pair of Masonic cufflinks from the late 1800s.

Link & Angell dramatically engine-turned cufflinks.

Although the beauty and design of antique cufflinks is what first catches the eye, I am equally intrigued with the people who made and wore the cufflinks. The backs of cufflinks often provide a wealth of helpful clues. Above is a cufflink beautifully engine-turned in a radial barley corn pattern. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, the cufflink dates from the early decades of the last century.

Reverse of Link & Angell cufflinks.

Examining the reverse of the cufflink helps tell its story. The cufflinks were given in 1919 as a Christmas gift to "S.C.F." (the "F" is obscured by the cross bar). Although SCF remains anonymous to us, the personal inscription on the back of the cufflinks creates a tangible link to the past. No doubt, on a Christmas morning ninety years ago SCF delighted in the beauty of the cufflinks as much as we do today.

Close-up maker's mark.

A close examination of the cross bar reveals more clues to the cufflink's history. The cross bar is stamped "14K" for the purity of the gold. Beneath the gold mark is a maker's mark. Although the lower half of the mark is lost at the edge of the cross bar, it can be read as the maker's mark of the firm Link & Angell. The mark is an "L", "&" and "A" suitably connected by three links.

Founded by William Link in 1871, the firm under several names created elegant cufflinks and beautiful jewels for six decades. The Art Nouveau cufflinks pictured at the beginning of this note are also an example of the firm's work. William Link died in 1911 and the firm continued under outside management for several decades. The firm appears to have discontinued operations during the Great Depression.

A wonderful reference, if you wish to learn more about Link & Angell and other makers of American cufflinks is "The Glitter and the Gold: The Fashioning of American Jewelry" edited by Ulysses Grant Dietz. The book is a delight to read and an invaluable resource.

To view the above and other antique cufflinks,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Art Deco white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflake Cufflinks

Several nights ago a few isolated snowflakes fell as I was walking the dog. Meanwhile, the constellation Orion was peaking up over the horizon. All signs of winter. It is once again time to celebrate the coming season with a flurry of snowflake cufflinks.

The term "snowflake" is commonly used to describe white gold or platinum cufflinks that shimmer with exuberantly engraved designs. Particularly popular in the decades around 1920, these sparkling cuff jewels capture the light hearted, optimistic spirit of the age. The variety of intricately engraved patterns that decorate snowflake cufflinks is phenomenal, almost as varied and unique as natural snowflakes. The dramatic white gold Art Deco cufflinks pictured above are a nice example.

Here are a few more snowflakes that recently blew into the gallery ...

WAB jazzy spiral and scroll cufflinks, circa 1920.

Wordley, Allsop & Bliss was one of the more prolific makers of fine cufflinks from the firm's founding in 1907 until the 1930s. WAB and its successor firms created cufflinks ranging in style from late Victorian to late Art Deco Moderne. These white gold cufflinks from the early 1920s feature jagged spiral centers surrounded by richly scrolling borders. They reflect the early Art Deco preoccupation with leaving no surface undecorated.

Link & Angell barley turned cufflinks, circa 1920.

Link & Angell was another maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. These beautifully engine turned cufflinks are decorated in a pattern known as "barleycorn". The repeated, petal-like design and the frostiness of the white gold, inspired us to nickname these cufflinks "Winter Rose". Crafted in 14kt gold around 1920.

Wintry Art Deco diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

These frosty white gold cufflinks always remind me of a field of freshly fallen snow in the winter moonlight. The shimmering white of the the gold and richly detailed engraving give the cufflinks a sparkling, almost crystalline appearance. A small diamond set in a navette setting adds to the wintery brilliance. Crafted in 14kt white gold around 1925.

Ziething "Radiating Wave" cufflinks, circa 1925.

The word "pizazz" could have been invented to describe the jazzy cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. during the 1920s. The firm excelled at creating dramatically engraved cufflinks that seem to radiate, not just reflect, light. This pair with radiating wave-like centers surrounded by dramatic track borders is a beautiful example. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1925.

To view these snowflake cufflinks and other elegant cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Charles Keller platinum and gold Cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflakes on the Cuff

Yesterday afternoon we had the first snowfall of the season. Although not exactly a blizzard, there was enough snow to cover everything in luminous, shimmering white. With this first sign of winter, it seems like a good time to talk about Snowflakes.

In decades around 1920, a great variety of cufflinks were created. Among the popular styles were white gold and platinum cufflinks with beautifully engraved centers. The cufflinks often featured radiant stars or stylized flower designs surrounded by bold, geometric borders. These lacy, white jewels have become known as "Snowflakes".

Platinum and Gold engraved "Snowflake" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Here are an elegantly engraved pair of cufflinks that are a nice example of the Snowflake style. The centers feature stylized flower motifs surrounded by elegant Chinese key borders. These cufflinks nicely illustrate the light, floating feel of the Snowflake style, as well as the diverse influences that contributed to Art Deco design. Crafted in gold and platinum, circa 1925.

Ziething Sapphire and Gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

Radiant star bursts set with rich blue man-made Sapphires brighten these Ziething cufflinks. Ziething & Company was a maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. The firm excelled at brightly engraved cufflnks which beautifully sparkle and dance in the light. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Frosty platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflake cufflinks are usually beautifully designed and well crafted. However, they present two challenges. First, Snowflakes tend to get lost against a white shirt cuff. These white gold and platinum cufflinks are best appreciated against a darker or patterned background.

Second, although Snowflake cufflinks are well crafted, they tend to be lighter in weight. Thus, they are ideal for special occasions, but may not take well to daily wear. As always, closely examine the backs of Snowflakes (and other cufflinks) to assure that the links and brackets are in accord with the intended wear.

For additional views of the cufflinks shown above, please click the pictures.

A flurry of Snowflakes and other fine cufflinks can be found
in our Antique Cufflink Gallery.