New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Stickpins and Brooches

Wishing everyone the very best and good fortune in the New Year!  To help celebrate 2018 we have added several elegant jewels to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries.
Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include roses and diamonds by Larter & Sons, as well as a Japanese garden.  Striking platinum and gold cufflinks by Durand & Company, trophies for the victor by Huger and classically elegant cufflinks by Whiteside & Blank.


Roses and Diamond  A wreath of roses and leaves surrounds a brightly polished center set with a diamond.  The slight rosy blush of the antique gold adds to the charm of the design.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $725

Platinum and Gold  Finely engraved cufflinks with radiant yellow gold centers that play beautifully against of the shimmering white of platinum edges. Created by Durand & Company in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost: Sold

The Japanese Garden  An alluring tangle of wild chrysanthemums, leaves and sinuous vines with untamed tendrils curling upwards like drifting wisps of smoke. Elegantly crafted in 14kt gold about 1920.
Cost:  $685

Symbols of Victory  Art Deco cufflinks beautifully engraved with symbols of triumph and victory.   The long edges are decorated with clusters of roses and the ends with ribbon-tied laurels.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $685


Classical Elegance  Late Victorian cufflinks in the neoclassical taste with wreathes or swags of laurel leaves framing the outer edges and dramatic, stylized anthemia (palmettes) at the ends.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1900. Cost: Sold

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery two fierce winged creatures by Carrington and Whiteside & Blank have come to rest.  Joining the fiery chimera are lotus blossoms by Carter, Howe and an Art Nouveau fantasy that appears to be a leaping alien.


Dragon and Diamond  A fierce dragon greedily clutches a sparkling diamond.  The sinuous shape of this large-sized stickpin is beautifully sculpted and richly detailed.  An elegant accessory to guard any tie or lapel.  Created by Carrington in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.   Cost:  Sold


The Gargoyle  A winged serpent warily clutches a small pearl.  This little fellow is richly detailed and oozes with menacing charm.  The perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons and goblins from your tie, lapel or hat.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $485


Lotus Rising  A golden lotus blossom opens as it reaches towards the sun.  The blossom is finely detailed in the Art Nouveau style and accented with three small pearls.  Beautifully sculpted by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost: Sold


Nouveau Fantasy An elegant stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste of the early 1900s.  The center amethyst is cut en cabochon and framed by beautifully detailed goldwork.  Created by Day, Clark & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $525


New in the Antique Brooch Gallery is a Hans Brassler brooch with golden roses framing luminous pearls and a lambent golden citrine.


Citrine and Pearls  A wonderful brooch set with a lambent golden citrine and bright, luminous pearls framed by golden roses.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include mesmerizing Carrington moss agates, elegant golden pinstripes, radiant two-tone Art Deco cufflinks, frosty platinum-on-gold octagons and a second pair of elegant pinstripes.

Carrington Moss Agate  Mesmerizing moss agates with a swirl of green inclusions reminiscent of seaweed floating above the ocean floor.  Created by Carrington and Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Deco Pinstripes II  Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with engraved pinstripes alternating with bright bands of gold.  The simple elegance of the uncluttered linear designs of the Art Deco period crafted in 10kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $475

Art Deco Radiance  Jazzy Art Deco cufflinks with beautifully engraved white gold centers surrounded by yellow gold borders embellished with an elegant scroll design.  Created by United Jewelers in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $785

Elegantly Engraved  Beautifully engraved platinum top cufflinks decorated with scroll and floral designs.  The octagonal shape is highlighted with elegant Art Deco borders.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $675

Elegant Pinstripes II  Art Deco cufflinks with rippling pinstripe centers and jazzy cross-hatched borders.  An elegant example of the intricate, geometric designs of the 1920s.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $785

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found in
the Antique Cufflink Gallery

Recent Additions - Cufflinks, Stickpins and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a golden garden of exuberant blossoms, elegantly modern carnelian and white gold cufflinks, and a pair of sleeve links from H.A. Kirby with diamonds and frothy scrolls.

Golden Garden  An exuberant tangle of flowers, buds and leaves recalls the sinuous curves of Art Nouveau and the flattened perspective of Japanese prints.  A tribute to the unabashed eclecticism of early Art Deco jewelry designers.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $665

Moderne Carnelian  Glowing ember-like carnelians set in white gold.  The cool brilliance of the gold contrasts beautifully with the warm sultry red of the carnelians .  Created by Carter, Gough & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $885

Diamonds and Scrolls  A bright, solitary diamond floats like an early morning star above a profusion of tight, feathery scrolls  A wonderful example of the Art Nouveau cufflinks created by H.A. Kirby.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $675

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery and the Antique Brooch Gallery feature a beautiful sapphire and pearl stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste and a striking blue guilloche enamel brooch from Carter, Howe.

Sapphire and Pearl  Flowing Art Nouveau curves with a hint of Gothic frame a blue sapphire and luminous pearl.  The elegant angles and openness of the design are reminiscent of the stone tracery surrounding a window in a Medieval cathedral.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.
Cost:  $475

Carter Blue  Rich blue enamel framed in yellow gold and accented with numerous seed pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe & Co.,  circa 1900,  in 14kt gold.    Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include winged lions, striking platinum and blue enamel Art Moderne cufflinks and an elegant dress set of carved onyx with pearls.

Winged Lions and Sapphires  Victorian gentlemen delighted in jewels decorated with exotic and fantastic creatures.  Here a winged lion-serpent fiercely guards a bright blue sapphire.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.     Cost:  $1,275

Platinum and Blue  The elegant contrast between frosty platinum pinstripes and regal blue enamel in the Art Moderne taste of the 1930s.  Created by Carrington & Co. in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1935.    Cost:  Sold

Engraved Onyx  Elegant dress set with beautifully engraved black onyx tops accented with small pearls and white gold borders.  The elegance of Jazz Age black tie attire.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,825

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery feature a striking Brassler lapis lazuli stickpin and a Victorian golden scarb.

Lapis Lazuli  Brilliant blue lapis lazuli with small, golden accents is set beneath flowing Art Nouveau curves and Classical laurel wreath borders.  A wonderful example of the imaginative jewels created by Hans Brassler.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $685

Golden Scarab  Victorian stickpin with a shimmering golden scarab set in a small shadow box.  The frame is decorated with fine wire scrollwork and small golden orbs.  A tour de force of Victorian jewelry making.  Created in 14kt gold, circa 1875.    Cost:  $675

Recent additions to the Antique Brooch Gallery include a wonderful sapphire and pearl brooch created by United Jewelers.

Sapphire and Pearls  A golden brooch with a richly engraved frame of floral and geometric motifs and small, luminous pearls accenting the corners.  A light blue sapphire rests in the center.    Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

I hope everyone is enjoying the best of the Holiday season and anticipating an even better New Year!

New additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery and the Estate Jewelry Gallery have slowed as we deal with the annual holiday rush. We have managed to add a pair of striking Art Deco cufflinks by United Jewelers, a Bacchus stickpin from Hans Brassler and a wonderful Victorian swallow brooch.

Art Deco Pizazz  Jazzy Art Deco cufflinks with bright concentric-circle centers surrounded by a yellow gold band of wave-like scrolls and white gold borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Bacchus  A rich purple amethyst is framed by two images of Bacchus, the God of Wine.  Since the ancient Greeks believed amethyst protected the wearer from intoxication, this is the perfect jewel for a fun loving oenophile.  Crafted in 14kt gold circa 1910.

Fly Away!  A wonderful brooch of a swallow in flight.  Among the Victorians swallows were a symbol of a traveler returning safely home.  Created by Riker Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Cufflinks in the Garden

Larter & Sons grape vine cufflinks, circa 1900.

Cufflinks in the Garden

I have been enjoying a short, sporadic vacation recently, so this note may be a little disorganized and uncharacteristically brief. One of the areas neglected during my absence (besides blog posting) has been the garden. Despite the neglect, it has been a glorious season for the flowers with the Full Moon Coreopsis in full bloom and the Ruby Dwarf Helenium coming into its own. With the garden on my mind it is appropriate to post several pairs of antique cufflinks featuring flowers and plants.

Chrysanthemum and vine cufflinks, circa 1910.

A riot of wild chrysanthemums flourishes across these eight-sided cufflinks, a scene that recalls the Japanese woodcuts of the 1800s. The influence of Japanese art on Art Nouveau design can be seen in the flowing tendrils and vines that curl like wind-blown wisps of smoke between the flowers. Within the small area of the cufflinks (less than 5/8" across) I count eight blossoms in various stages of bloom. Created by United Jewelers in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Carrington rose and thistle cufflinks, circa 1920.

Carrington cufflinks with elegant rose and thistle borders. A client suggested that the rose-and-thistle motif may be a subtle celebration of Scottish-English unity, but I am inclined to believe that the design was chosen more for its beauty than any political allusion.

Initially, I described the centers of these cufflinks as radiant sunbursts. Now that I am in a floral frame of mind the centers appear more like dramatic flowers evocative of the stylized lotus blossoms and papyrus fronds of the Pharaohs or ancient India. Perhaps a reader with greater knowledge of the flora and iconography of the ancient world can shed some light. These eclectic cufflinks were crafted by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Larter & Sons 14kt gold acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1900.

In the early 1900s, the Newark-based jewelry firm, Larter & Sons, created a wonderful collection Art Nouveau inspired cufflinks. The entwining grape vine cufflinks at the top of this post are a nice example. The acanthus leaf cufflinks pictured here further illustrate the firm's ability to create dramatic cufflinks with flowing, organic designs. The acanthus leaves appear to be slowly encroaching across the gently domed surface of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Larter & Sons acanthus leaf cufflink, circa 1900.

To view these these and other fine antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.