Recent Additions - Cufflinks, Brooches and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include diamonds with serpentine scrolls, elegant jades from Carrington, mesmerizing "Op Art", jazzy Art Deco sapphire cufflinks and a beautiful gold dress set with moonstones.

Diamonds and Scrolls  A serpentine tangle of scrolls surrounds a bright diamond.  The beautifully worked scrolls and undulating gold surfaces reflect light in an elegant golden aura.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1890.    Cost:  $925

Carrington Jade II  Beautiful spinach green jade cabochons set in bright yellow gold.  The verdant lustre of the jade and high polish of the gold create an alluring warm glow.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $885

Op Art  Finely engraved concentric circles create the illusion of either a tall mountain of stacked circular terraces or a tunnel infinitely regressing into the distance.  Created by William Huger & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $645

Art Deco Sapphire  Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with richly engraved centers and borders.  A wonderful example of the beautifully designed, intricately detailed cufflinks of the early Art Deco period.    Cost:  $725

Moonstones and Gold  The silvery blue shimmer of moonstones complemented by the warm radiance of yellow gold.  This elegant dress set captures the bold simplicity of Mid Century design.    Cost:  $1,375

Recent additions to the Antique Brooch Gallery feature a diminutive Art Nouveau pin, a sapphire and pearl bar pin and a wonderful flower brooch by Whiteside & Blank.

Art Nouveau A wonderful diminutive Art Nouveau brooch of a strong, clear-eyed woman framed by her flowing, untamed tresses.  A dark pearl is set at the end of her golden headband.  Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $425

The Aviatrix  Luminous white pearls and a bright blue sapphire. The overall design of this small brooch is reminiscent of the wooden propellers of early airplanes.    Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.
Cost:  $325

Fleur Nouveau An Art Nouveau golden flower set with small white pearls.  This brooch wonderfully captures the sense of a fragrant flower swaying in a gentle breeze.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $385

New to the Antique Stickpin Gallery is a striking golden scarab created by Carter, Howe.

Carter Scarab  A golden scarab with soaring wings.  Among the Victorians scarabs were viewed as a symbol of rebirth and regeneration and often attributed amuletic powers.   This finely crafted example was created by Carter, Howe & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $465

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks, Stickpins and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a golden garden of exuberant blossoms, elegantly modern carnelian and white gold cufflinks, and a pair of sleeve links from H.A. Kirby with diamonds and frothy scrolls.

Golden Garden  An exuberant tangle of flowers, buds and leaves recalls the sinuous curves of Art Nouveau and the flattened perspective of Japanese prints.  A tribute to the unabashed eclecticism of early Art Deco jewelry designers.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $665

Moderne Carnelian  Glowing ember-like carnelians set in white gold.  The cool brilliance of the gold contrasts beautifully with the warm sultry red of the carnelians .  Created by Carter, Gough & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $885

Diamonds and Scrolls  A bright, solitary diamond floats like an early morning star above a profusion of tight, feathery scrolls  A wonderful example of the Art Nouveau cufflinks created by H.A. Kirby.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $675

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery and the Antique Brooch Gallery feature a beautiful sapphire and pearl stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste and a striking blue guilloche enamel brooch from Carter, Howe.

Sapphire and Pearl  Flowing Art Nouveau curves with a hint of Gothic frame a blue sapphire and luminous pearl.  The elegant angles and openness of the design are reminiscent of the stone tracery surrounding a window in a Medieval cathedral.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.
Cost:  $475

Carter Blue  Rich blue enamel framed in yellow gold and accented with numerous seed pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe & Co.,  circa 1900,  in 14kt gold.    Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

The Intricate Cufflinks of the Art Deco Era

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

The Intricate Cufflinks
of the Art Deco Era

Among collectors of fine timepieces, watches with intricate mechanisms and a plethora of features are known as "complications." The term is also aptly applied to a group of richly detailed cufflinks created during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s.

Frank Krementz cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design fervently believed that no visible surface should be left unadorned. The more decoration and embellishment, the better. Applying this design dictum to the small area of a cufflink resulted in mesmerizing cuff jewels.

A master of this style was the cufflink maker Frank Krementz. The firm was adept at combining intricate geometric patterns with stylized floral elements to create striking cufflinks with an incredible, almost obsessive, level of detail. The two cufflinks pictured above are beautiful examples.

L. Fritschze labyrinthine cufflinks, circa 1925.

A contemporary, but less prolific, cufflink maker was L. Fritschze and Company. Based in Newark, New Jersey (as were Krementz and Ziething), the firm specialized in cufflinks with dramatic geometric patterns. One's eye (and imagination) is inescapably drawn into the intricate, labyrinth-like designs. The cufflink pictured above is a striking example.

I have to confess a particular fondness for the Fritschze cufflinks. A fondness that only increases with their relative rarity.

Fritschze marquise and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Art Deco "complications" were usually crafted in white gold or a combination of white over yellow gold. Commercially introduced around 1918, white gold is relatively hard compared to platinum and silver and crisply holds detailed, engraved designs. White gold also tarnishes slightly over time, throwing the intricately engraved patterns into high relief.

Ziething octagonal bull's eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

No discussion of intricate Jazz Age cufflinks would be complete without a few sparkling examples from Ziething & Company. The shimmering, abstract designs adorning Ziething cufflinks were created with a technique reminiscent of bright-cut engraving. As a result, the lively, sparkling designs appear to radiate and dance as they catch the light.

Jazzy Ziething cufflinks, circa 1925.

Some of Ziething & Company's finest work are striking two-tone cufflinks. In these the brightness of richly engraved white gold borders contrasts with the warmth of equally intricate yellow gold centers. Pictured above are two beautiful examples.

A final example of the intricate cufflinks of the Art Deco era. Crafted in white gold these cufflinks feature dramatic floral and cruciform centers above a field of concentric circles. The canted-corners are embellished with acanthus leaves (or possibly flaming scrolls) with elongated Greek key designs along the edges in between. One side is set with a small diamond. An awful lot of decoration for a very small piece of real estate!

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include beautiful scrolling Art Nouveau cufflinks, a striking engraved mother-of-pearl dress set by Carrington, frosty white gold Art Deco cufflinks and an Art Deco pair with sapphires.

Carrington Fireworks  A Carrington full dress set with engraved mother-of-pearl centers reminiscent of exploding fireworks surrounded by swirling scroll borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Voluptuous Swirls  A tangle of voluptuous scrolls enlivens these striking Art Nouveau cufflinks.  They feature the tight, twisting swirls favored in American Art Nouveau jewelry design.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphires and Stars  Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic compass rose centers set with small blue sapphires surrounded by angular Greek key borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Art Deco Elegance  Beautiful Art Deco cufflinks with flowing scroll borders and dramatically engraved bull's eye centers.  Created by Frank Krementz Company in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Art Nouveau Waves  Dramatic scrolls flow along the edges of these cufflinks like frothy, crashing waves.  A nice example of Art Nouveau design.  Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Estate Jewelry

Additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include a beautiful Art Nouveau brooch by Krementz, dramatic irises, sinuous grape vines and a Victorian amethyst and diamond stickpin.

The Dream  A woman serenely dreaming amid four-leaf clovers.  The clovers are set with sparkling dew drop-like diamonds.  Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Grapes and Pearls  Beautifully detailed grape leaves and a cluster of fresh water pearls cascade across the oval frame of this Victorian brooch.  Created 10kt gold, circa 1890.

Bouquet of Irises  A bouquet of golden irises flourishes amid an Art Nouveau tangle of curvaceous stems and foliage.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Amethyst and Diamond  A regal purple amethyst is accented with fresh water pearls and a sparkling diamond..  The gems are set in a flowing Victorian twig-and-vine setting crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1890.

The above cufflinks, stickpins and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Art Deco jade and gold cufflinks and a trinity of navette-shape (elongated hexagon) cufflinks from the early 1900s.

Jade and Gold The Art Deco era was in love with bold, contrasting colors. These elegant cufflinks feature dark spinach green jade set in brilliant yellow gold. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Art Deco Beautiful Art Deco cufflinks with black enamel accents nicely complemented by intricate linear and geometric motifs. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.




Midnight Blue Elegant cufflinks with rich blue gemstones that bring to mind dark night skies with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.




Elegant Scrolls Elegant elongated cufflinks with sinuous scrolls and dramatic darts. Designed in the eclectic Beaux Arts style of the early 1900s. Created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Art Deco Cufflinks

Art Deco Cufflinks

Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

The Art Deco era roughly coincided with the decades between 1920 and 1940, although examples of Art Deco design can be found from earlier and later periods. Art Deco was in part a reaction to the sinuous naturalism and eclectic historicism of earlier styles. But, even more, Art Deco was a reflection of the optimism, the sense of newness of a world entering the post-World War I period.

Common Art Deco themes include dramatic sunbursts, stylized flora and bold geometric forms. The cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of the latter. The bold, sculptural tops are set with rich green step-cut Tourmalines. The color and cut of the gemstones beautifully complements the design of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold around 1930.

Stylized palmette and water lily cufflinks, circa 1920.

From slightly earlier in the Art Deco period, the above white gold cufflinks feature dramatic anthemion corners and borders of stylized water lilies. In early Art Deco cufflinks, flowers and plants were rendered in stylized form. It was a movement away from the wild, untamed plants and vines celebrated in Art Nouveau and late Victorian designs. But as the Art Deco period progressed the stylized flora withered and were replaced by the abstract, more austere designs of the later Art Moderne.

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design followed the motto "Leave no surface undecorated." This exuberant pair of Frank Krementz cufflinks illustrates the finesse with which Art Deco jewelers could work a profusion of decoration into a very small area. The centers feature dramatic sunrises bisected by bands of black enamel and white gold. Surrounding the central motif is an oval course of engraved yellow gold with mille grain edges. The cufflinks are finished with white gold borders of repeating sunrise motifs.

Ziething jazzy cufflinks, circa 1925.

A discussion of Jazz Age cufflinks would be remiss if it failed to mention the bright, glittering cuff jewels of Ziething & Company. Ziething created mesmerizing links engraved with an almost obsessive level of detail. The cufflinks are embellished with radiating starbursts, bold geometric patterns and intricate designs. Ziething cufflinks are particularly beautiful in the flickering light of a candle. The above pair was crafted in 10kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Dramatic black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Many Art Deco jewels featured vibrant gemstones or rich colored enamels. The tourmaline cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note are a wonderful example.

The late 1920s saw the rise to a second direction in Art Deco design. Striking jewels emphasizing contrasts between black and white captured the public eye. The above cufflinks feature labyrinth-like Chinese-key motifs highlighted against black enamel. The bright white gold centers are engraved with linear pinstripes. The black-and-white cufflinks of the 1930s are among the most sophisticated and elegant jewels of the era.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks, circa 1925.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the 20th century. This pair of Art Deco links achieves a pleasing balance between the exuberant details of the Krementz and Ziething pictured above and the stark elegance of black-and-white designs. The hypnotic centers are surrounded by stippled borders, parallel curved lines and attenuated Chinese-key motifs in black enamel. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

"Architectural" cufflinks by William Huger, circa 1930.

In closing, I illustrate a pair of cufflinks from one of my favorite makers during the Art Deco era, William Huger & Company. The firm embraced the aesthetics of Art Deco design and created beautiful jewels of the cuff. The cufflinks are imbued with the same spirit that inspired America's largest contribution to Deco design - soaring, modern skyscrapers.

The above Huger white gold cufflinks feature stylized blossoms, geometric meanders and soaring pinstripe centers that bring to mind the Chrysler Building, Rockefeller Plaza and the other outsized icons of American Art Deco. The successful celebration of Art Deco in both the smallest and largest of objects is a witness to the styles nearly universal appeal.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

In several earlier posts, I discussed the artistry and history of antique cufflinks. This month's note is about cufflinks as objects of personal adornment. These three factors - Artistry, History and Adornment - in large part explain the irresistible attraction of antique cufflinks. Together they constitute the "AHA Effect."

The reasons individuals wear antique cufflinks are many. At the most rudimentary level cufflinks are functional - they hold a shirt cuff together. Beyond the utilitarian, a wearer may select a pair of antique cufflinks because he/she wishes to enjoy a miniature work of art and literally keep it close at hand. Another wearer may be motivated by a sense of history. While others may aspire to a public display of wealth.

Fortuitously, the designs of antique cufflinks are as diverse as the motives of those who wear them. The period from 1880 to 1950 saw the creation of cufflinks in many distinct styles, ranging from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Edwardian to Art Deco. Among antique cufflinks there is something to suit almost any taste.

This point is better illustrated with photographs than words. Below is a sampling of fine antique cufflinks from the 1890s until the 1940s. These cufflinks would beautifully adorn any cuff.

Striking guilloche enamel cufflinks with translucent purple enamel over an engine turned pattern of radiating ovals. A nice example of the beautifully crafted, bold designs created by Carrington & Co. during the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created around 1910 by one of the founding firm's of the American jewelry industry, Durand & Company.

A menagerie of mythological creatures and exotic animals inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with striking eagle-like features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

An exuberant pair of Art Deco cufflinks with radiant sunburst centers and black enamel accents. Engraved yellow and white gold borders complement the design with bold Art Deco motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Wonderful white-on-white cufflinks featuring mother of pearl centers surrounded by elegantly scrolling white gold borders with a small pearl in the center. Crafted in 14kt gold , circa 1920.

The elegance of the Edwardian era sparkles in these platinum and diamond cufflinks. The soft engraving of the platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Beautifully crafted gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Late Victorian cufflinks with dramatic winged scarabs. A wonderful example of Egyptian Revival design from of the late 1800s. Antique cufflinks often reflect an enthusiasm to past periods and ancient civilizations. Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1890

The curving, intertwining lines of ancient Celtic design inspired beautiful cuff jewels during the 19th century Celtic Revival. Another example, of the late Victorian interest in ancient cultures. These finely crafted cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Beautiful Tiffany Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring Old European Cut diamonds and blue Sapphires set amid flowing, intertwining curves. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.

The above and many other fine cufflinks from the past can be
found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.