New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include striking amethyst cufflinks created by Hans Brassler, a golden bit of architectural history, an elegant Carrington moonstone and platinum full dress set, an equally elegant Tiffany abalone and platinum dress set and smoldering tiger eye cufflinks by Sansbury & Nellis.

Amethyst and Gold  Glowing, rich purple amethysts set in distinctive, beautifully worked gold frames.  A miniature work of sculpture created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Architectural History  Beautifully crafted cufflinks celebrating the Chicago Tribune's famous Tower Contest.  The 1922 competition was an international success drawing designs from many of the leading architects of the day.  An elegant piece of architectural history.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1922.    Cost:  Sold

Moonlight and Platinum  The shimmering adularescence of moonstone paired with the cool brilliance of platinum.  This elegant Carrington dress set glows with the dazzle and romance of the Art Deco era.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Tiffany Abalone and Platinum   Dark aubergine abalone with iridescent flashes of red and green set in platinum.  A striking tuxedo set created for Tiffany & Co. in the late 1930s.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold.    Cost:  Sold

Tiger Eye  Elegant tiger eyes set in finely crafted gold cufflinks.  The tiger eyes glow with honey-yellow "eyes" that shade to rich brown along the edges.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

New in the Antique Brooch Gallery is a striking amethyst and pearl brooch with radiating fleur-de-lys.

Elegant Amethyst  A beautiful brooch with a hint of Medieval elegance.  The lozenge-cut amethysts rest in the lobes of a golden quatrefoil while radiating fleur-de-lys are accented with small, luminous pearls.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches

Recent additions to the  Antique Cufflink Gallery  include jazzy Art Deco cufflinks, elegant Carrington sapphires and diamonds, a striking onyx and pearl dress set, frosty white snowflakes and a bold pair of geometric onyx cufflinks.  In the  Antique Brooch Gallery  we recently added an intriguing Renaissance Revival pin from Tiffany & Company.

Elegant Jazz  The elegance of richly engraved gold centers and black enamel accents heightened by jazzy zigzag platinum borders.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $925

Carrington Sapphires and Diamonds  Sapphires and diamonds set amid elegantly engraved platinum pinstripes. Created by Carrington & Co. in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,275

Onyx and Pearls  Sharply reeded platinum borders surround raised black onyx centers set with a small white pearl.  A starkly elegant dress sets with a hint of early mid-century Modern.  Crafted in 14kt gold and platinum,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $1,375

Icy Elegance  Brilliant white gold cufflinks sparkling with cool elegance.  The finely engraved tops shimmer with star bursts, garlands and pendant swags.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $785

Onyx Geometry  Late Victorian cufflinks with velvety black onyx set in antique yellow gold.  One end is an onyx disk and the other an elongated rectangle.  Beautifully crafted in onyx and 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $625

Tiffany Renaissance A beguiling brooch depicting a woman with a spear and shield protecting a mother and child.    Created by Tiffany & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1915.    Cost:  $625

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique Jewelry Galleries

Tiffany Cameo Portrait Cuff Buttons

With the summer temperatures moderating and the usual mid-summer lull in the gallery, I am taking a brief break.  So, while I am off hiking in the mountains I will leave you with photos of one of the more interesting pairs of cuff buttons I have had the opportunity to work with this year.

This wonderful pair of Victorian cuff buttons features beautifully carved hardstone (sardonyx) cameos. The cuff buttons were custom created for a gentleman in the decades around 1870. The portrait cameos likely represent the wearer's daughters or wife and daughter. Although, several clients have suggested more risque interpretations.

The cuff buttons were created by Tiffany & Company. They rest in their original fitted case with a regal reddish-purple silk and velvet interior. The silk lining beneath the lid is signed "Tiffany & Co./New York" in gold letters. For me these beautiful cuff buttons embody the three elements that define all fine antique cufflinks - beauty, history and craftsmanship.

I hope everybody is enjoying a wonderful summer! I will be back next month to write about some mesmerizing cufflinks from Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery to view these
and many other fine cufflinks for the past

Elegant Cufflinks and Striking Gemstones

Charles Keller carnelian set cufflinks, circa 1925.

In the jewelry trade there is an ugly expression, "semi-precious gemstone".  The dismissive adjective "semi-precious" is used to denote gemstone varieties perceived to be of lesser value or prestige, much like the term "B list" denotes celebrities of lower calibre or lesser status.  In the past any gemstone other than the traditional "Big 4" - diamonds, sapphires rubies and emeralds - could be mislabeled as semi-precious.

While diamonds, rubies and sapphires glitter and sparkle, the so-called "semi-precious gems" offer virtues all their own.  Not the least of which is a nearly limitless variety of beautiful hues and rich color patterns.  These underappreciated gemstones found enthusiastic supporters among the cufflink makers and wearers of the late Victorian era and early 20th century.  Here are a few colorful examples from the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Charles Keller sodalite cufflinks, circa 1925.

Charles Keller & Company was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks from about 1890 to 1930.  This pair of Keller cufflinks is set with dark blue sodalites accented with cloud-like wisps of white calcite.  The gemstones bring to mind a night sky with a few wispy clouds illuminated by moonlight. Sodalite, along with lapis lazuli, was favored during the Art Deco period for its rich blue color. Charles Keller & Company also created the sultry red Carnelian cufflinks pictured at the top of this post.

Victorian cufflinks set with bloodstones, circa 1900.

If sodalite can be likened to a moonlit midnight sky, the fine bloodstones set in these late Victorian cufflinks are aptly described as glowing, hot embers flowing amid dark, cooling lava. Bloodstone is a captivating variety of the mineral quartz with a dark green, sometimes almost black, background and red flecks of iron oxide.  These beautiful bloodstones are set in oval gold frames and secured by fleur-de-lys prongs. Created by George  O. Street & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sansbury & Nellis tiger eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

Many decorative varieties of quartz were favored in gentlemen's jewelry. This pair of curved spool cufflinks by Sansbury & Nellis are set with dark brown and honey colored tiger eye's.  The dramatic, rich tones of the gemstones are heightened by the rose gold setting.  Tiger eye, like the bloodstones illustrated above, is a variety of quartz.  A few more examples of quartz set cufflinks are illustrated below.

Art Deco white chalcedony cufflinks, circa 1925.

Sansbury & Nellis also created these dazzling white cufflinks from the Art Deco era.  The gemstones are chalcedonies (pronounced "cal-said-knees"), a fine grained variety of quartz.  Fine chalcedony appears to glow with an otherworldly light.  The white chalcedonies set in these cufflinks have a billowy luminance reminiscent of a white fog bank just before it burns off in the morning sun.  Sansbury & Nellis was one of the premier makers of fine gem-set cufflinks in the decades around 1920.

Carrington abalone and pearl cufflinks, circa 1925.

Carrington cufflinks with carved abalone dishes set with glistening white pearls.  Although abalone shell is technically not a gemstone, the iridescent beauty of this "semi-precious" material didn't escape cufflink makers and connoisseurs.  In this pair the dark abalone creates a striking contrast with the platinum borders and center pearls.  A beautiful example of the elegant, stark designs favored in the later Art Deco period. Once again confirming that Carrington & Company was the master of understated elegance.

Tiffany sardonyx cameo cuff button, circa 1870.

This pair of Victorian cuff buttons with cameo portraits (one shown) was created by Tiffany & Co. around 1875.  The cameos are carved in sardonyx, a lovely banded variety of quartz with alternating layers of dark red carnelian and white or colored onyx.  The cameos are set in a border of alternating rose gold and platinum dots. These cuff buttons were likely custom created for a well-healed gentleman wishing to always have a portrait of his wife and/or daughters near at hand.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include an elegant pair of cameo portrait cuff buttons created by Tiffany & Co., golden pinstripe cufflinks from Carrington & Company, a striking pair of Art Deco cufflinks with zigzag borders, and dramatic fraternal cufflinks of an elk crashing through the tops.

Tiffany Cameos Wealthy Victorians often shared cameo portraits with family members and close friends as tokens of endearment. This pair of elegant cuff buttons created by Tiffany & Co. is a wonderful example. Crafted in 18kt rose gold and platinum, circa 1870.

Golden Pinstripes Elegant pinstripe cufflinks created by Carrington & Company. The pinstripe motif rose in popularity with the simpler, linear designs of the late Art Deco period. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Deco Zigzag Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with jazzy zigzag enamel borders surrounding mesmerizing centers of concentric circles. Created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Elk A seven-point elk crashes through the front of these intriguing, wonderfully sculpted cufflinks. These dramatic cufflinks were likely owned by a member of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks. Beautifully crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

Estate Jewelry

Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include two beautiful Edwardian jewels - a richly enameled stickpin and an elegant brooch set with an Old European Cut diamond.

Edwardian Stickpin A white enamel border with gold fleur-de-lys accents surrounds a beautifully guilloched, blue enamel center with a rosy pearl is set in the middle. An elegant stickpin from the Edwardian era. Crafted in 14kt gold circa 1910.

Edwardian Elegance An elegant Edwardian bar pin set with a sparkling Old European Cut diamond. Lace in precious metal. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1920.

The above cufflinks and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

In several earlier posts, I discussed the artistry and history of antique cufflinks. This month's note is about cufflinks as objects of personal adornment. These three factors - Artistry, History and Adornment - in large part explain the irresistible attraction of antique cufflinks. Together they constitute the "AHA Effect."

The reasons individuals wear antique cufflinks are many. At the most rudimentary level cufflinks are functional - they hold a shirt cuff together. Beyond the utilitarian, a wearer may select a pair of antique cufflinks because he/she wishes to enjoy a miniature work of art and literally keep it close at hand. Another wearer may be motivated by a sense of history. While others may aspire to a public display of wealth.

Fortuitously, the designs of antique cufflinks are as diverse as the motives of those who wear them. The period from 1880 to 1950 saw the creation of cufflinks in many distinct styles, ranging from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Edwardian to Art Deco. Among antique cufflinks there is something to suit almost any taste.

This point is better illustrated with photographs than words. Below is a sampling of fine antique cufflinks from the 1890s until the 1940s. These cufflinks would beautifully adorn any cuff.

Striking guilloche enamel cufflinks with translucent purple enamel over an engine turned pattern of radiating ovals. A nice example of the beautifully crafted, bold designs created by Carrington & Co. during the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created around 1910 by one of the founding firm's of the American jewelry industry, Durand & Company.

A menagerie of mythological creatures and exotic animals inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with striking eagle-like features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

An exuberant pair of Art Deco cufflinks with radiant sunburst centers and black enamel accents. Engraved yellow and white gold borders complement the design with bold Art Deco motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Wonderful white-on-white cufflinks featuring mother of pearl centers surrounded by elegantly scrolling white gold borders with a small pearl in the center. Crafted in 14kt gold , circa 1920.

The elegance of the Edwardian era sparkles in these platinum and diamond cufflinks. The soft engraving of the platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Beautifully crafted gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Late Victorian cufflinks with dramatic winged scarabs. A wonderful example of Egyptian Revival design from of the late 1800s. Antique cufflinks often reflect an enthusiasm to past periods and ancient civilizations. Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1890

The curving, intertwining lines of ancient Celtic design inspired beautiful cuff jewels during the 19th century Celtic Revival. Another example, of the late Victorian interest in ancient cultures. These finely crafted cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Beautiful Tiffany Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring Old European Cut diamonds and blue Sapphires set amid flowing, intertwining curves. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.

The above and many other fine cufflinks from the past can be
found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

George O. Street Cufflinks

George W. Street, circa 1900

A great variety of fine cufflinks were created in the decades near 1900. Styles ranged from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts to Art Deco. One of the firms contributing to the melange of miniature cuff masterpieces was George O. Street & Sons.

In 1837 George Street established one of the first jewelry manufacturers in the United States. Located in lower Manhattan the firm created gold rings, seals, watch fobs and other jewels for the carriage-trade jewelers of the day, including Tiffany & Company. In 1892 George Street retired to the family manse in Great Barrington, Massachusetts and passed leadership of the firm to his son George W. Street (pictured above). The firm remained in business until about 1950. Of particular interest are the beautiful gold cufflinks created under the leadership of the founder's son in the years around 1900.

George O. Street Celtic Revival cufflinks, circa 1900.

George O. Street cufflinks are miniature works of art finely crafted in gold. The firm's artists and craftsmen excelled at exploiting golds sculptural potential, creating gold cufflinks with dramatic shapes, intricate designs, and subtle textures. The gold was an integral part of the design - not just a bright setting for gemstones or a shiny surface to be elaborately engraved.

The above Celtic Revival cufflinks featuring intricately interwoven knotwork (plaits) are a wonderful example. The endless knots fill the inner borders of the cufflinks and encircle raised oblong centers of brightly polished gold. The subtle texture of the plaits and the natural patina of the precious metal throw the design into dramatic relief. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

George O. Street Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

The Puritan settlers of the New Haven Colony were among the Street family's ancestors. No doubt their rigid sense of probity would have been offended by these Art Nouveau cufflinks created 250 years later by George O. Street & Sons. America had come a long way since the 1600s.

Close-up of "Nymph in Waves" cufflink.

Ocean nymphs enveloped in crashing waves and frothy seas were a classic Art Nouveau theme. Sometimes referred to as "Nymph in the Waves" or on the west coast "Surfs up, Nude", the risque scene was favored by makers and wearers of gentlemen's jewelry and accesories. These dramatic cufflinks beautifully illustrate the firm's ability to work with gold to create richly detailed miniature works of sculpture. The result is astounding when you consider that the cufflinks measure less than an inch across.

George O. Street Onyx and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1900

An example of the free flowing, organic forms of American Art Nouveau, the above cufflinks mysteriously glow with dark Onyx centers surrounded by undulating, spiraling gold borders. The upper surface of the gold is engraved with a subtle bark or snakeskin-like pattern. The contrast between the dark Onyx and warmth of the gold is heightened by the natural patination of the gold. For some reason, these cufflinks always remind me of a dark night sky lit by a few sparkling stars.

American Art Nouveau design was strongly influenced by Louis Comfort Tiffany, son of the founder of Tiffany & Company (another firm founded in 1837). George O. Street & Sons was a provider of gold rings and other jewels to Tiffany & Company. Although Tiffany & Company created its own cufflinks, the firm also retailed cufflinks from other noted makers of the day - including Carrington and Krementz. I suspect that George O. Street & Sons also provided cufflinks to Tiffany & Company. An interesting area of further research is the shared history of the two firms and possible interactions between the sons of the founders.

Reverse of George O. Street Cufflinks, circa 1900

George O. Street & Sons created beautiful jewelry and cufflinks from 1837 to about 1950. During that period the maker's mark of the firm was an "S" encircled in an oval. Found on the reverse of the cufflinks, the maker's mark preceded, or sometimes split, the gold purity mark.

George Street Maker's Mark.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

American Art Nouveau Cufflinks

Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

In the decade before 1900 exceptional artist jewelers sought a break with the traditions of the past. Finding inspiration in nature, distant cultures, and their own fertile imaginations, these innovative jewelers created stunning jewels that were known collectively as the "Art Nouveau."

Different nations contributed unique interpretations to the Art Nouveau style. In France artists like Rene Lalique created jewels with fantastic woman-insect hybrids and other exotic forms. In Germany the new art found expression in the sinuous, tendril-like curves of the Jugendstil ("youth style"). And in Great Britain Art Nouveau jewels and objects reflecting elements of Celtic and Arts & Crafts design were created by Archibald Knox for Liberty & Co.

Krementz Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

In America jewelry and cufflink makers were quick to follow the emerging fashions in Europe. Krementz & Company was an early adopter of the the Art Nouveau style. The above Krementz cufflinks recall the flowing curves of the German Jugenstil and the dramatic illustrations of the British artist Aubrey Beardsley. At the top of this note is a beautiful pair of Link & Angell cufflinks likely inspired by the exotic Art Nouveau jewels created in France and the posters of Alphonse Mucha. The face and cascading hair of the woman are enveloped in the narcotic vapors of a poppy flower - a classic Art Nouveau motif.

Tiffany & Co. Sapphire and Diamond Cufflinks circa 1900

However, Amercian Art Nouveau cufflinks did not just imitate of the latest European fashions. A unique style of Art Nouveau emerged in the United States. Louis Comfort Tiffany (son of the founder of Tiffany & Company) was a leading proponent of Art Nouveau design. Inspired by trips to Europe and participation in international exhibitions, he contributed a distinct American Art Nouveau style - one emphasizing nature and the imagination.

The above cufflinks created by Tiffany & Company are a wonderful example. The flowing, rich curves and organic forms of the cufflinks have the appearance of seaweed or aquatic plants floating serenely in the water. Voluptuous, flowing curves and tight swirls are emblematic of American Art Nouveau design.

George Street Onyx and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1900

A second pair of American Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring gently flowing borders with tight swirls. The gold borders are subtly textured to create a vine-like, or possibly reptilian, appearance. The swirls at each corner are reminiscent of shimmering stars on a slightly overcast or foggy night. The overall organic shape and drama of the borders is heightened by black Onyx centers and the natural patination of the gold. Created by George O. Street & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Tiffany's work with art glass undoubtedly influenced his approach to Art Nouveau design. Indeed, the design of many American Art Nouveau jewels show a strong affinity with the voluptuous curves and curls that Tiffany created in glass. The Favrile glass punch bowl exhibited by Tiffany at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 is a wonderful example.

The affinity between the jewels and the art glass of the period is not surprising. One of the tenets of Art Nouveau design was to create a unified environment in which all elements - architecture, furniture, decoration, objets d'art and jewelry - followed consistent design principles and themes. A movement away from the cluttered eclecticism of the Victorian era.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.