A Parade of Colorful Cufflinks

Summer is here! White clouds are floating across the blue sky, the garden is abloom with flowers, and brightly colored towels and umbrellas decorate the beach. What better way to celebrate the beginning of summer than with a parade of colorful cufflinks. And, since Independence Day is just around the corner, we will start the parade with some red, white and blue fireworks.

William Huger carnelian cufflinks.

Arresting, sultry red carnelians set in bright yellow gold. The striking contrast of the red carnelian and yellow gold settings reflects the bold colors and contrasts favored during the Art Deco era. Created by Wm. Huger & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Sansbury & Nellis white chalcedony cufflinks.

Translucent, foggy white chalcedony (a fine grained variety of quartz) set in rose gold. The luminous chalcedonies brings to mind early morning fog burning off with the first rays of the sun. A nice example of the striking white jewels of the late Art Deco period. Crafted in 14kt rose gold, circa 1930.

George Street lapis lazuli cufflinks.

Regal blue lapis lazuli wedded with the warmth of antique gold. The interplay of the rich blue of the gemstones and warm yellow of the gold speaks of the elegance of the past. Created by George O. Street & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sansbury & Nellis bloodstone cufflinks.

Heliotrope, more commonly known as "bloodstone," is a beautiful gemstone with bright red spots set in dark green jasper. The finest examples have the mesmerizing appearance of fiery embers smoldering in a dark bed of ashes. These Art Deco cufflinks feature elongated oval heliotropes set in bright yellow gold. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Lapis lazuli and gold cufflinks.

During the Art Deco era the passion for bold, dramatic colors found ready expression in lapis lazuli. The rich blue of the lapis set in these cufflinks is accented with small bits of pyrite (fools gold) that shimmer and sparkle like golden confetti falling in the midnight sky. These elegant cufflinks capture the festive, raucous spirit of the Jazz Age. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Victorian moss agate sleeve buttons.

Victorian sleeve buttons with mesmerizing moss agates. The moss agates feature a swirling tangle of green inclusions that glow like seaweed floating in filtered sunlight above the ocean floor. The gemstones are set in gold frames with richly engraved leaves and scrolls. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

Larter & Sons hawk's eye tuxedo set.

An elegant tuxedo set with hawk's eyes in yellow gold. Hawk's Eye is a striking variety of quartz with deep blue edges shading into a glowing, bluish-gray "cat's eye" across the middle. The shimmering cat's eye effect (or "chatoyancy") and color of the gemstones plays beautifully against the warm tones of the yellow gold. This dress set was created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1950.

These and other fine cufflinks can be found in
the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include an elegant pair of Carrington onyx and diamond cufflinks, Art Deco cufflinks with an endless tangle of squiggles, shimmering cat's eyes set in mid century cufflinks by L.E. Garrigus and fraternal cufflinks from the Benevolent and Protective Order of the Elks.

Onyx and Diamond  Black onyx set with sparkling diamonds is perhaps the epitome of Art Deco elegance.  These beautifully crafted cufflinks were created by Carrington & Co. in 14kt gold around 1925.
Cost:  Sold

Infinite Squiggles  A seemingly endless tangle of golden squiggles give these elegant cufflinks a shimmering affect reminiscent of fine, watered silk.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.    Cost  $675

Art Moderne  Abstract cuff sculpture that beautifully captures the stark, modern designs of the mid century.  Set with shimmering cat's eye chrysoberyls.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1950.    Cost:  Sold

Order of the Elks  The elk, clock and star are symbols of the Benevolent and Protective Order of the Elks.  These richly detailed cufflinks were likely worn by a loyal member of the local lodge.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost: $625

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a striking Egyptian Revival stickpin by Hans Brassler, an elegant Belle Epoque stickpin from France and a roaring lion with fiery ruby eyes.

Pharaohs and Scarab  An Egyptian Revival stickpin with two Pharaohs flanking a heliotrope (bloodstone) scarab.  The two Pharaohs and other design elements are finely sculpted with a rich patina that throws the myriad details into high relief.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $885

Belle Epoque  A beautifully designed French stickpin from the Belle Epoque period set with sparkling rose-cut diamonds, a luminous pearl and bright ruby.  Finely crafted in 18kt gold and platinum,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $775

Roaring Lion  A lion roars while clutching a sparkling diamond in his mouth.  The lion's fierce aspect is accented with fiery red eyes (likely rubies or garnets).  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Galleries include intriguing bloodstone cufflinks from Sansbury and Nellis and a winged-scarab stickpin by Hans Brassler, Jazz Age lapis lazuli and gold cufflinks, Art Nouveau foliate scroll cufflinks, and elegant sapphire and diamond cufflinks with intricately engraved platinum tops.

Heliotrope  Heliotrope is a beautiful gemstone with the mesmerizing appearance of fiery embers smoldering in a dark ashes.  These elegant cufflinks were created by Sansbury & Nellis during the Art Deco era.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Scarab and Bloodstone  A wonderful interpretation of a winged scarab by Hans Brassler.  In this imaginative jewel, the jeweler combined elements of Art Nouveau, Gothic Revival and Arts & Crafts design while evoking the mysteries of ancient Egypt.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.

Lapis and Gold   The rich blue of lapis lazuli accented with small bits of fools gold beautifully captures the elegant, raucous spirit of the Jazz Age.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Feathery Scrolls  Art Nouveau flowing, feathery scrolls.  The flowing design of these cufflinks may have been inspired by crashing waves along a rocky shore or ferns unfurling in the early Spring.  Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphire and Diamonds   Beautifully engraved cufflinks set with rich blue sapphires and sparkling white diamonds.  The hexagonal borders feature intricate geometric designs in the Art Deco fashion.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpin, can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery and the Antique Stickpin Gallery

The Extraordinary Stickpins of Hans Brassler

Hans Brassler stickpin, circa 1910.

Hans Brassler was a wonderfully imaginative designer who created jewels and other fine objects during the first half of the 20th century. He was born in Germany, studied jewelry design in Paris and is rumored to have medaled at the 1900 Exposition Universelle. In 1909 he founded The Brassler Company in Newark, New Jersey where he served as artistic director and chief designer. Over the next half-dozen years he played with the Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts, classical and even early Art Deco themes of the early 1900s to create innovative, original cufflinks, brooches, pendants and other jewels. The breadth and imagination of his work can be seen in the following brief survey of Brassler stickpins.

Brassler found inspiration in a variety of sources ranging from classical mythology to the emerging design trends of the early 20th century.  This classically inspired stickpin features two profiles of Bacchus, the God of Wine, framing a rich purple amethyst.    The ancient Greeks believed amethyst protected the wearer from intoxication, so this is the perfect jewel for a Bacchanalian revel or even a more sedate wine tasting.

The Arts & Crafts movement drew inspiration from the craftsmanship and arts of the Middle Ages.  This Brassler stickpin reflects the influence of Medieval design with a cruciform top centered by a striking bloodstone.  In the Middle Ages  bloodstone was associated with the martyrdom of the saints and the crucifixion of Christ.  Interest in the symbols and spirituality of the earlier age persisted through the Victorian era and into early 20th century.

Brassler worked with a diverse palette of gemstones. His creations were colored with the rich hues of amethysts, heliotropes, moonstones, citrines and sapphires. Other favored gemstones included black opal and small white pearls. Occasionally, small diamonds offered sparkling accents. Brassler was concerned with the beauty of a gem and how well it complemented the design of the jewel, not its scarcity or monetary worth.

A luminous moonstone is set in a  golden Greek key border. In this second Arts & Crafts, or is it Classical Revival, design the goldwork gives the jewel a mysterious, ancient feel.  You can almost imagine this jewel being excavated from the Treasury of Homer's Troy or a Mycenaean royal tomb.

Brassler took great care in the design and crafting of every aspect of a jewel.  No detail was too small or overlooked.  This is evident in the attention paid to the finish, texture and patina of the goldwork.  For example, the patina of the gold in the Bacchus stickpin (illustrated at the beginning of this note) creates a chiaroscuro of light and shadow which throws the rich details of the design into high relief. Or, the soft, undulating glow of the goldwork of this moonstone stickpin which beautifully complements the luminous glow of the gemstone.  Each aspect of a jewel was chosen to enhance and reinforce the beauty of the others.

Brassler played with and challenged the prevailing design themes of the early 20th century. His vision and imagination often led him to wed elements from disparate styles to create jewels of striking originality.  This is no more evident than in the jewels he created in the Art Nouveau fashion.  This striking citrine and pearl stickpin weds the flowing curves of Art Nouveau design with a lyre shape recalling classical themes and the symmetry favored by the Arts & Crafts movement.

In this Art Nouveau stickpin the boldness of a rich blue cabochon sapphire and outsized white pearl (possibly a replacement) anticipates later Art Deco designs.  A Greek key motif recalls the artist's fondness for classical elements, while the fantastic shape and flowing curves squarely places this stickpin in the Art Nouveau tradition.  Illustrating Brassler's close attention to detail and the artist's love of beautiful gemstones, this stickpin exemplifies Brassler's ability to draw from eclectic design influences and with his imagination create extraordinary jewels. 

Hans Brassler remained affiliated with The Brassler Company until 1916. In 1933 the remaining assets of the firm were acquired by the jewelry maker Jones & Woodland, later acquired by Krementz & Co. The maker's mark of The Brassler Company is "14 B" in a double oval border. It can be found stamped on the reverse or pin stem of the stickpins.

Brassler and other fine stickpins can be found
in the Antique Stickpin Gallery.

Elegant Cufflinks and Striking Gemstones

Charles Keller carnelian set cufflinks, circa 1925.

In the jewelry trade there is an ugly expression, "semi-precious gemstone".  The dismissive adjective "semi-precious" is used to denote gemstone varieties perceived to be of lesser value or prestige, much like the term "B list" denotes celebrities of lower calibre or lesser status.  In the past any gemstone other than the traditional "Big 4" - diamonds, sapphires rubies and emeralds - could be mislabeled as semi-precious.

While diamonds, rubies and sapphires glitter and sparkle, the so-called "semi-precious gems" offer virtues all their own.  Not the least of which is a nearly limitless variety of beautiful hues and rich color patterns.  These underappreciated gemstones found enthusiastic supporters among the cufflink makers and wearers of the late Victorian era and early 20th century.  Here are a few colorful examples from the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Charles Keller sodalite cufflinks, circa 1925.

Charles Keller & Company was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks from about 1890 to 1930.  This pair of Keller cufflinks is set with dark blue sodalites accented with cloud-like wisps of white calcite.  The gemstones bring to mind a night sky with a few wispy clouds illuminated by moonlight. Sodalite, along with lapis lazuli, was favored during the Art Deco period for its rich blue color. Charles Keller & Company also created the sultry red Carnelian cufflinks pictured at the top of this post.

Victorian cufflinks set with bloodstones, circa 1900.

If sodalite can be likened to a moonlit midnight sky, the fine bloodstones set in these late Victorian cufflinks are aptly described as glowing, hot embers flowing amid dark, cooling lava. Bloodstone is a captivating variety of the mineral quartz with a dark green, sometimes almost black, background and red flecks of iron oxide.  These beautiful bloodstones are set in oval gold frames and secured by fleur-de-lys prongs. Created by George  O. Street & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sansbury & Nellis tiger eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

Many decorative varieties of quartz were favored in gentlemen's jewelry. This pair of curved spool cufflinks by Sansbury & Nellis are set with dark brown and honey colored tiger eye's.  The dramatic, rich tones of the gemstones are heightened by the rose gold setting.  Tiger eye, like the bloodstones illustrated above, is a variety of quartz.  A few more examples of quartz set cufflinks are illustrated below.

Art Deco white chalcedony cufflinks, circa 1925.

Sansbury & Nellis also created these dazzling white cufflinks from the Art Deco era.  The gemstones are chalcedonies (pronounced "cal-said-knees"), a fine grained variety of quartz.  Fine chalcedony appears to glow with an otherworldly light.  The white chalcedonies set in these cufflinks have a billowy luminance reminiscent of a white fog bank just before it burns off in the morning sun.  Sansbury & Nellis was one of the premier makers of fine gem-set cufflinks in the decades around 1920.

Carrington abalone and pearl cufflinks, circa 1925.

Carrington cufflinks with carved abalone dishes set with glistening white pearls.  Although abalone shell is technically not a gemstone, the iridescent beauty of this "semi-precious" material didn't escape cufflink makers and connoisseurs.  In this pair the dark abalone creates a striking contrast with the platinum borders and center pearls.  A beautiful example of the elegant, stark designs favored in the later Art Deco period. Once again confirming that Carrington & Company was the master of understated elegance.

Tiffany sardonyx cameo cuff button, circa 1870.

This pair of Victorian cuff buttons with cameo portraits (one shown) was created by Tiffany & Co. around 1875.  The cameos are carved in sardonyx, a lovely banded variety of quartz with alternating layers of dark red carnelian and white or colored onyx.  The cameos are set in a border of alternating rose gold and platinum dots. These cuff buttons were likely custom created for a well-healed gentleman wishing to always have a portrait of his wife and/or daughters near at hand.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink and Jewelry Galleries include a striking pair of George O. Street bloodstone cufflinks, elegantly engraved hexagonal platinum-on-gold cufflinks and a beautifully crafted horse brooch by Sloan & Company.

Victorian Heliotrope  Beautiful red-and-black bloodstones set in elegant cufflinks with oval gold frames and Fleur-de-lys prongs.  Created by George Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Elegantly Engraved  Elegantly engraved platinum top cufflinks with foliate and quatrefoil designs and striking Art Deco borders.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Whoa Nelly  Equestrian themes were favored in the decades around 1900.  This beautifully sculpted horse brooch is richly detailed and accented with a green enamel girth strap.  Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

The above cufflinks and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery