In last week's note I discussed cufflinks created by an unidentified jewelry firm, nicknamed the "Winged Bridge Maker". I illustrated several cufflinks that were two-toned and featured intricately engine turned centers (see example above).
The unknown maker was not limited to beautifully executed abstract and linear designs. The Winged Bridge Maker also created striking cufflinks with rich floral and foliate centers. Two examples are illustrated below.
The first pair echoes the formal neo-classical designs of the late Victorian period. The yellow gold centers feature acanthus leaves arranged in a swag pattern around a stylized eight-petal flower. The white gold borders feature small rosettes with flowing leaves and simple geometric corner motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1920.
The design of the second pair of cufflinks is decidedly bolder. The eight-petal flower has "exploded" to dominate the yellow gold center with spear-tipped petals. Crowded between the elongated petals are small six-petal flowers. The white gold border features bold geometric motifs with the floral designs now relegated to the corners. Based on the style and design of these cufflinks, they date closer to 1930 than to 1920. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold.
These two cufflinks nicely illustrate the evolution of Art Deco cufflinks from the refined, almost neo-classical designs of the early 1920s to the bolder, geometric motifs of the 1930s.