New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Stickpins and Brooches

Wishing everyone the very best and good fortune in the New Year!  To help celebrate 2018 we have added several elegant jewels to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries.
Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include roses and diamonds by Larter & Sons, as well as a Japanese garden.  Striking platinum and gold cufflinks by Durand & Company, trophies for the victor by Huger and classically elegant cufflinks by Whiteside & Blank.


Roses and Diamond  A wreath of roses and leaves surrounds a brightly polished center set with a diamond.  The slight rosy blush of the antique gold adds to the charm of the design.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $725

Platinum and Gold  Finely engraved cufflinks with radiant yellow gold centers that play beautifully against of the shimmering white of platinum edges. Created by Durand & Company in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost: Sold

The Japanese Garden  An alluring tangle of wild chrysanthemums, leaves and sinuous vines with untamed tendrils curling upwards like drifting wisps of smoke. Elegantly crafted in 14kt gold about 1920.
Cost:  $685

Symbols of Victory  Art Deco cufflinks beautifully engraved with symbols of triumph and victory.   The long edges are decorated with clusters of roses and the ends with ribbon-tied laurels.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $685


Classical Elegance  Late Victorian cufflinks in the neoclassical taste with wreathes or swags of laurel leaves framing the outer edges and dramatic, stylized anthemia (palmettes) at the ends.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1900. Cost: Sold

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery two fierce winged creatures by Carrington and Whiteside & Blank have come to rest.  Joining the fiery chimera are lotus blossoms by Carter, Howe and an Art Nouveau fantasy that appears to be a leaping alien.


Dragon and Diamond  A fierce dragon greedily clutches a sparkling diamond.  The sinuous shape of this large-sized stickpin is beautifully sculpted and richly detailed.  An elegant accessory to guard any tie or lapel.  Created by Carrington in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.   Cost:  Sold


The Gargoyle  A winged serpent warily clutches a small pearl.  This little fellow is richly detailed and oozes with menacing charm.  The perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons and goblins from your tie, lapel or hat.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $485


Lotus Rising  A golden lotus blossom opens as it reaches towards the sun.  The blossom is finely detailed in the Art Nouveau style and accented with three small pearls.  Beautifully sculpted by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost: Sold


Nouveau Fantasy An elegant stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste of the early 1900s.  The center amethyst is cut en cabochon and framed by beautifully detailed goldwork.  Created by Day, Clark & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $525


New in the Antique Brooch Gallery is a Hans Brassler brooch with golden roses framing luminous pearls and a lambent golden citrine.


Citrine and Pearls  A wonderful brooch set with a lambent golden citrine and bright, luminous pearls framed by golden roses.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

I was away from the Antique Cufflink Gallery for several weeks, so recent additions are not as numerous as usual. But the pieces added make up in exceptional craftsmanship and design what they lack in numbers. Recent additions include a pair of Carrington cufflinks set with jade, striking golden cufflinks by Durand & Co., and a white coral dress set from Sansbury & Nellis.

Carrington Jade  Dark, spinach green jade in finely engraved gold bezels.  Sunlight passes through the translucent jades like miniature stained glass windows.  Hand crafted by Carrington in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.    Cost:  $975

Radiant Suns  Swirling golden pinwheels beautifully sculpted in 14kt gold.  Created by Durand & Company, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Sansbury Coral  White coral cabochons set in rose gold.  The creamy white of the coral contrasts beautifully with the warmer tones of the rose gold.   Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,275

These cufflinks and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

Durand & Company was one of the leading American jewelry makers during the 19th and early 2oth centuries. Although the firm was founded in 1869, the Durand family traces its roots in jewelry and related arts to the pre-Revolutionary era.

Under the leadership of James M. Durand, the firm was renowned for beautiful design and technical innovation. The company was known as a creator of "only the exceptional in jewelry" and an importer of the finest gemstones. During its 75 years, Durand & Company executed many important one-of-a-kind commissions, while also providing cufflinks and other jewels to the finest retail jewelers of the day. At one time the firm was in partnership with Charles Lewis Tiffany.

The platinum and gold cufflinks illustrated above are a beautiful example of the classically inspired cufflinks created by Durand & Company in the early 1900s. The radiant gold centers are dramatically engraved with a repeated chevron pattern. A surrounding course of platinum is also intricately engraved and accented with gold Greek key motifs which form the outer edge of the cufflinks. The cufflinks were crafted in platinum and 14kt gold around 1910.

Durand & Company acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1910.

Pictured above is a second pair of Durand & Company cuff jewels from the early 1900s. This pair shares the overall design of the first, but substitutes dramatic encroaching acanthus leaves for the Greek key motifs. The use of acanthus leaves and Greek keys illustrates the influence of the Classic past on Durand & Company jewelry designs.

The beauty of the Durand cufflinks was matched by the care with which they were crafted. The backs of the cufflinks are brilliant with a mirror-like finish. The backs are almost as beautiful as the fronts.

Reverse of Durand & Company cufflinks.

Note the sturdy brackets and cross bars that secure the cufflinks on the cuff. The linkage was specially designed by the firm and protected with a patent for "improved cuff buttons" issued in 1908. The maker's mark for Durand & Company - a stylized "D" - is visible just to the left of the gold purity mark ("14K").

Below is the schematic from the 1908 patent. Each of the numerous numbered points indicates parts of the design where the firm took great care to assure that the design would be both convenient and safe. The goal was to create a cufflink that could be put on with minimum fuss, but would remain securely on the cuff.

Drawings from 1908 for improved cuff-button design.

A brief passage from the original patent illustrates the extent to which Durand & Company pursued the desiderata of convenience and safety.

The improved feature of the device [cufflinks] is the connection of the bar, connecting the plates, with the back of the plates so as to give a stronger structure, and also to provide one that makes the entrance of each end of the cuff-button, into its side of the cuff, more easy than in the old style of button, due to the structure of the lug [bracket], on the back of the plate ...

It is fair to say that no detail was considered too small when Durand & Company designed a pair of cufflinks.

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

To view these these and other antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

In several earlier posts, I discussed the artistry and history of antique cufflinks. This month's note is about cufflinks as objects of personal adornment. These three factors - Artistry, History and Adornment - in large part explain the irresistible attraction of antique cufflinks. Together they constitute the "AHA Effect."

The reasons individuals wear antique cufflinks are many. At the most rudimentary level cufflinks are functional - they hold a shirt cuff together. Beyond the utilitarian, a wearer may select a pair of antique cufflinks because he/she wishes to enjoy a miniature work of art and literally keep it close at hand. Another wearer may be motivated by a sense of history. While others may aspire to a public display of wealth.

Fortuitously, the designs of antique cufflinks are as diverse as the motives of those who wear them. The period from 1880 to 1950 saw the creation of cufflinks in many distinct styles, ranging from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Edwardian to Art Deco. Among antique cufflinks there is something to suit almost any taste.

This point is better illustrated with photographs than words. Below is a sampling of fine antique cufflinks from the 1890s until the 1940s. These cufflinks would beautifully adorn any cuff.

Striking guilloche enamel cufflinks with translucent purple enamel over an engine turned pattern of radiating ovals. A nice example of the beautifully crafted, bold designs created by Carrington & Co. during the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created around 1910 by one of the founding firm's of the American jewelry industry, Durand & Company.

A menagerie of mythological creatures and exotic animals inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with striking eagle-like features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

An exuberant pair of Art Deco cufflinks with radiant sunburst centers and black enamel accents. Engraved yellow and white gold borders complement the design with bold Art Deco motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Wonderful white-on-white cufflinks featuring mother of pearl centers surrounded by elegantly scrolling white gold borders with a small pearl in the center. Crafted in 14kt gold , circa 1920.

The elegance of the Edwardian era sparkles in these platinum and diamond cufflinks. The soft engraving of the platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Beautifully crafted gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Late Victorian cufflinks with dramatic winged scarabs. A wonderful example of Egyptian Revival design from of the late 1800s. Antique cufflinks often reflect an enthusiasm to past periods and ancient civilizations. Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1890

The curving, intertwining lines of ancient Celtic design inspired beautiful cuff jewels during the 19th century Celtic Revival. Another example, of the late Victorian interest in ancient cultures. These finely crafted cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Beautiful Tiffany Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring Old European Cut diamonds and blue Sapphires set amid flowing, intertwining curves. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.

The above and many other fine cufflinks from the past can be
found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery feature an elegant pair of Durand platinum and gold cufflinks, beautiful Moss Agates from Carter, Howe & Company, sparkling Edwardian diamond and platinum cufflinks, and frosty white gold snowflakes.

Platinum and Gold! Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek or Chinese key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created by Durand & Company, circa 1910.




Moss Agate III Beautiful eight-sided Moss Agates set in bright yellow gold. Created by one of the premier makers of fine cufflinks during the early 1900s. Crafted in 14t gold, circa 1910.




Edwardian Elegance! Cushion-shape platinum top cufflinks that sparkle with the elegance of the Edwardian era. The softly engraved platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.




Intricately Engraved! Beautifully engraved white gold cufflinks with elegant scroll borders. The dramatic borders feature winged volutes and small flowers at each corner. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Platinum and Gold Cufflinks

Carrington Platinum and Pearl Dress Set, circa 1925.

Platinum is a magical metal. It beautifully holds intricate engravings, can be polished to a mirror-like finish and attains a shimmering, frosty patina over time. And, because of its purity, platinum does not tarnish like white gold and silver.

When first encountered by Europeans in the 1500s, platinum was discarded as "unripened silver." Platinum melts at a much higher temperature than gold or silver. As a result, it was a difficult metal for jewelers and creators of objet d'art to work with. During the Victorian era technological advances, like the high-heat oxyhydrogen blow pipe, made working with platinum more feasible. By the early 1900s the brilliance of platinum had captivated the jewelry world. The brilliant white metal became almost de rigueur for fashionable cufflinks and other fine jewels. In my opinion some of the finest platinum cufflinks were created during the early 1900s, culminating with the Jazz Age of the 1920s. The Carrington pearl and platinum cufflinks pictured above nicely capture the elegance and style of the age.

Frosty platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

One of the appealing qualities of platinum is the rich patina it takes on over time. In winter we occasionally get a snow shower mixed with fine particles of ice. At night, especially under a full moon, the freshly fallen snow and ice crystals shimmer and sparkle with a magical glow.

Antique platinum often has a similar appearance. Platinum does not tarnish, but over the years platinum cufflinks can accumulate microscopic scratches and abrasions that give the metal a shimmering, magical glow. The effect is sometimes called "Platinum Frost". The frosty platinum cufflinks pictured above are a striking example.

Beautifully engraved platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

The increasing demand for and limited supply of platinum resulted by the early 1920s in platinum costing eight to ten times as much as gold. Although occasionally you will come across a beautiful pair of solid platinum cufflinks from the early 1900s, most often platinum was combined with gold to create richly engraved cufflinks with platinum tops and gold backs. The pair pictured above feature geometric Art Deco borders which perfectly complement the richly engraved centers. I suspect many platinum cufflinks were patriotically sacrificed during World War I and II when the precious metal was needed for strategic purposes.

Carter, Gough platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

A beautiful variation on the platinum and gold theme are elegant two-tone cufflinks. Striking two-tone cufflinks from the 1920s add elegant pizzazz to any cuff. The Carter, Gough cufflinks pictured above feature platinum borders embellished with "C" scrolls and intricately engraved yellow gold centers. Carter, Gough and its predecessor firms created beautiful gold and platinum cufflinks and jewels from the mid 1800s to the early 1930s.

Below is a slightly earlier pair of platinum and gold cufflinks from Durand & Company, another maker of exceptional cufflinks during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. As a bit of cufflink trivia, the founders of Durand & Company, were cousins of the Hudson River school painter Asher B. Durand. I have always wondered if the artistic pursuits of the jewelers and painter ever influenced each other.

Durand & Co. platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

For additional views of the cufflinks pictured above,
please click the pictures.

To view these and other fine cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Elegant Ovals

During the early decades of the last century, jewelry makers created elegant oval cufflinks in gold and platinum. Eschewing the more intricate designs of the period, the oval cufflinks often featured simple concentric patterns, subtle engine turning and dramatic pinstripes. These cufflinks are the epitome of understated elegance. Here are a few examples.

14kt gold cufflinks possibly by R. Blackinton & C0., circa 1920.

The striking centers of these gold cufflinks may give rise to a slight feeling of vertigo. Surrounding the repeated ovals are borders of undulating scrolls and, for an added dash of elegance, milgrained edges. Concentric ovals, perhaps influenced by the simple geometric shapes of the Arts and Crafts movement, were a common motif during the early 1900s.

Durand & Co. platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

Durand & Company created elegant two-tone cufflinks in platinum and gold. Here yellow gold centers shimmer with richly engine-turned chevron patterns. The centers are framed by engraved platinum bands and yellow gold edges with flowing wave motifs. Durand & Company was one of the preeminent makers of fine cufflinks and jewelry during the 19th and early 20th centuries. The founders of the firm shared an artistic heritage with the American landscape painter Asher B. Durand.

J.R. Wood & Sons 14kt gold "pinstripe" cufflinks, circa 1940.

Classic cufflinks with golden pinstripes surrounded by boldly engraved borders. The pinstripe motif grew in popularity as taste moved to the simpler, linear designs of the late Art Deco period. These cufflinks were crafted in 14kt gold by J.R. Wood & Sons. Founded in Brooklyn, NY in 1850, Wood & Sons created fine cufflinks and jewels for over a century before being acquired by Lenox, Inc. in 1970.

To view other beautiful oval cufflinks from the early 1900s,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Durand & Co. platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910
Durand was one of the many jewelry makers
based in Newark, New Jersey.

Three Books and a Museum

As the temperature climbed above 80 degrees last week, my thoughts turned to summer. Two of my favorite summertime activities are reading by the lake and visiting the air conditioned confines of museums. So here is a list of several of my favorite cufflink-related books and one of my favorite museums.

The Glitter & The Gold: Fashioning America's Jewelry by Ulysses Grant Dietz, et al

During the decades from 1850 to 1950, Newark, New Jersey was the center of fine jewelry manufacture in the United States. The majority of the cufflinks featured in the Antique Cufflinks gallery and this blog were designed and manufactured by Newark jewelry makers. In 1997 an exhibition at the Newark Museum explored the history and evolution of the Newark jewelry trade and the stunning jewels created. The Glitter & the Gold documents the exhibition and offers many wonderful pictures and informative essays. If you are interested in American cufflinks and jewelry this book is indispensable.

Cufflinks by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson

This is a fun book. It tells the story of gorgeous cufflinks and the fabulous people, le beau monde, who wore them. The book presents a sampling of fine links from the early 1700s through 1990 with an emphasis on early 20th century and Art Deco examples. The book is beautifully illustrated with wonderful photographs. This is a great read for an afternoon at the beach.

Cuff Jewelry: A Historical Account for Collectors and Antiques Dealers by Howard L. Bell

While the Jonas book samples the history of fine cufflinks, this book goes into greater depth on a narrower range. Howard Bell illustrates cufflinks from the Victorian era to the 1960s with over 1000 images. He covers diverse topics such as historical periods, materials, methods of manufacture, gemstones and makers' makers. His Chronology of Linkages is particulary interesting. Published in 1994, the book's price estimates provide a useful benchmark for how antique cufflinks have appreciated over the past 15 years. This book is a useful resource for the aspiring cufflink collector.

The Newark Museum Newark, New Jersey

An opportunity to visit The Newark Museum should never be passed up. The museum has a wonderful collection of American jewelry and decorative arts from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Museum's Curator of Decorative Arts, Ulysses Grant Dietz, has organized a number exemplary exhibitions on jewelry and related arts. Mr. Dietz is also the lead author of the first book listed above. You should visit the museum's web site to learn of current exhibitions and special events ( http://www.newarkmuseum.org/ ).