New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include striking amethyst cufflinks created by Hans Brassler, a golden bit of architectural history, an elegant Carrington moonstone and platinum full dress set, an equally elegant Tiffany abalone and platinum dress set and smoldering tiger eye cufflinks by Sansbury & Nellis.

Amethyst and Gold  Glowing, rich purple amethysts set in distinctive, beautifully worked gold frames.  A miniature work of sculpture created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Architectural History  Beautifully crafted cufflinks celebrating the Chicago Tribune's famous Tower Contest.  The 1922 competition was an international success drawing designs from many of the leading architects of the day.  An elegant piece of architectural history.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1922.    Cost:  Sold

Moonlight and Platinum  The shimmering adularescence of moonstone paired with the cool brilliance of platinum.  This elegant Carrington dress set glows with the dazzle and romance of the Art Deco era.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Tiffany Abalone and Platinum   Dark aubergine abalone with iridescent flashes of red and green set in platinum.  A striking tuxedo set created for Tiffany & Co. in the late 1930s.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold.    Cost:  Sold

Tiger Eye  Elegant tiger eyes set in finely crafted gold cufflinks.  The tiger eyes glow with honey-yellow "eyes" that shade to rich brown along the edges.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

New in the Antique Brooch Gallery is a striking amethyst and pearl brooch with radiating fleur-de-lys.

Elegant Amethyst  A beautiful brooch with a hint of Medieval elegance.  The lozenge-cut amethysts rest in the lobes of a golden quatrefoil while radiating fleur-de-lys are accented with small, luminous pearls.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include Carrington platinum and gold cufflinks set with mother of pearl, an enigmatic pair with a message of restrained love, and elegant Art Deco cufflinks with an engraved "A".

Platinum and Pearl II  Platinum borders of engraved laurel wreaths surround creamy white mother-of-pearl centers.  A shimmering duet of white on white.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

La Défi de L'amour  Stylized symbols of love are hidden behind a maze-like border in the Chinese key pattern.  Perhaps these cufflinks are a comment on the challenge of finding true love.  Crafted in 14kt yellow and white gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Elegant "A"  An elegantly engraved "A" framed in a rectangular cartouche surrounded by linear and squiggling pinstripes.  Jazzy cufflinks in the best Art Deco taste crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery are two elegant examples of Hans Brassler's work - one set with carnelian the other lapis lazuli.

Brassler Carnelian  A dramatic carnelian glows luminously from within the golden folds of a flowing setting.  A wonderful contrast between the stark geometry of the carnelian and the organic curves of the setting.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $485

The Night Beetle  A deep blue lapis lazuli set as the body of an exotic scarab or moth with golden wings tightly folded along its sides.  In the lapis golden flecks of pyrite glitter like stars in the night sky.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $485

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include mesmerizing Carrington moss agates, elegant golden pinstripes, radiant two-tone Art Deco cufflinks, frosty platinum-on-gold octagons and a second pair of elegant pinstripes.

Carrington Moss Agate  Mesmerizing moss agates with a swirl of green inclusions reminiscent of seaweed floating above the ocean floor.  Created by Carrington and Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

Deco Pinstripes II  Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with engraved pinstripes alternating with bright bands of gold.  The simple elegance of the uncluttered linear designs of the Art Deco period crafted in 10kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $475

Art Deco Radiance  Jazzy Art Deco cufflinks with beautifully engraved white gold centers surrounded by yellow gold borders embellished with an elegant scroll design.  Created by United Jewelers in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $785

Elegantly Engraved  Beautifully engraved platinum top cufflinks decorated with scroll and floral designs.  The octagonal shape is highlighted with elegant Art Deco borders.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $675

Elegant Pinstripes II  Art Deco cufflinks with rippling pinstripe centers and jazzy cross-hatched borders.  An elegant example of the intricate, geometric designs of the 1920s.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $785

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found in
the Antique Cufflink Gallery

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include Krementz Lions with amethysts, Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks and elegant Carrington Onyx and Platinum cufflinks.

Lions and Amethysts  A roaring lion grasps a deep purple amethyst in his mouth as he announces his authority over the windblown grasses of the savanna.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  Sold

Sapphires and Diamonds  Bright blue sapphires and sparkling diamonds set amid finely engraved, intertwining foliage.  Elegant scroll-and-volute borders in the early Art Deco taste decorate the edges.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Black and Gold  Dramatic cufflinks with intricate scroll and geometric designs highlighted with black enamel accents.  The interplay of the rich designs, hexagonal shape and black enamel tracery give these cufflinks a regal, jazzy elegance.  Crafted in 10kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $575

Radiant Zigzags  Finely engraved zigzags radiate in cascading waves toward white gold borders embellished with geometric and stylized floral motifs.  The shimmering centers and bold borders contrast with perfect Art Deco elegance.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,125

Sapphire Jazz  Bright blue sapphires sparkle amid a cascade of finely engraved lines.  The mesmerizing centers are surrounded by borders of alternating scroll and floral (or dragonfly) motifs.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  $925

Carrington Onyx  The elegant contrast of brilliant, white platinum with the dark reflections of polished onyx.   Finely engraved zigzags on the platinum borders add a final touch of elegance.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $885

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery feature a Winged Lion and pearl stickpin and a Hans Brassler radiant triangle stickpin.

Winged Lion  A fantastic creature with the head of a lion, wings of an eagle and sinuous body of a serpent.  A striking example of the Victorian fascination with mythological creatures.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1890.   Cost:  $375

Pearl Triangle  A rounded triangle set with a luminous pearl.  Golden bridges rise from the corners to cradle the pearl at their apex.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include several pairs of Art Deco cufflinks set with bright blue sapphires, an elegant Carrington dress set, striking guilloche enamel cufflinks by Krementz and a number of other richly engraved cufflinks from the early 20th century.

Egyptian Revival  Stylized lotus blossoms and splayed papyrus fronds surround bright blue sapphires and radiant sun bursts adding Pharaonic splendor to these Art Deco cufflinks.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Sapphire and Gold  Rich blue sapphires set amid bright gold centers of concentric circles, stylized acanthus leaves and finely milgrained edges.  The Art Deco jeweler let no chance escape to embellish this richly detailed design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Lavender and Gold  Arresting Art Deco cufflinks with lavender and black enamel centers accented with yellow gold pinstripes and borders.  Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $975

Carrington Elegance  Sparkling diamonds in platinum set amid radiant waves etched in mother-of-pearl all surrounded by jazzy platinum borders  A jazzy example of the Carrington sense of understated elegance.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,625

Winter Jazz  Radiant checkerboard centers surrounded by bold Jazz Age borders.  These Art Deco cufflinks glimmer with the frosty elegance of icicles glittering in the early morning sun.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $875

Pharaoh's Pool  Waving papyrus reeds and elegant anthemia surround a rippling pool of golden water or, perhaps, it is a hidden garden maze.  Art Deco cufflinks with the mysteries of ancient Egypt.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $875

Pizzazz  Bright Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved platinum centers surrounded by yellow gold borders with stylized palmette corners.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $485

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a fierce dragon, a golden bug and a lapis lazuli scarab.

Regal Dragon  A fierce dragon watches menacingly while maintaining a certain regal composure.  The dragon is beautifully rendered - note the fine details of the wings, the scales along the neck and body and the expressive features of the head.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $425

The Gold Bug The diamond-set head, elongated shield-shape body and golden forelegs of this abstractly rendered insect are framed by dramatically outward sweeping wings.  A wonderful example of American Art Nouveau design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $475

Scarab and Serpents  The mysteries of ancient Egypt ... two serpents with entwined tails surround a scarab carved in lapis lazuli.  A stylized lotus blossom rest atop the serpents and scarab.  This stickpin was created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $725

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpin

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant guilloche enamel and diamond cufflinks by Whiteside & Blank, striking sapphire and diamond links, frosty platinum and gold snowflakes and an Art Deco pair featuring blue enamel and golden pinstripe.

Classical Jazz  Rich blue enamels with a jazzy engraved pattern of radiating zigzags surrounded by classically-inspired laurel wreath borders.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost:  $1,625

Platinum Snowflakes   Shimmering snowflakes fall in frosty platinum skies surrounded by striking octagonal borders.  What more could you ask for in elegant Art Deco cufflinks?  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1930.    Cost:  Sold

Windrose  A wind or compass rose surrounds diamonds and sapphires while stylized roses, dentil meanders and milgrained edges swirl around the periphery.  Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $825

Pinstripe Blues  Blue enamel accents and golden pinstripes light up these elegant cufflinks from the 1920s.  A mix of jazz and elegance equally well suited for the opera or a speakeasy.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $725

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a fiery French chimera from the Art Nouveau era.

La Chimère  A fierce French chimera vigilantly guards the top of this golden jewel.  The perfect personal gargoyle to keep evil spirits away from one's lapel or tie.  Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $725

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Wintry Cufflinks

Wintry Cufflinks

Since the beginning of the year we have had several snow falls. The woods are covered with knee-deep powder that is perfect for snowshoeing and watching the dogs play. In celebration of all the wintry white stuff, I have put together a small collection of platinum and white gold cufflinks that shimmer and sparkle like fresh snow.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss frosty octagons, circa 1925.

These brilliant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks sparkle with wintry elegance and pizazz. The frosty white cufflinks feature pendant garlands (mistletoe?) surrounding snowflake-like centers. A dramatic border of boxes and crosses frames the design. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.

Heidelshimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved with repeating sunrise or wave motifs and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. The diamonds are set in platinum bezels with mille grain edges. Created by Irving Heidelshimer in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Finely engraved "TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

The finely engraved centers of these cufflinks from the "TH" maker shimmer like fields of fresh snow in early morning sunlight. The Art Deco palmette corners and stylized water lily borders offer a sunny counterpoint to our wintry theme. An elegant pair of cufflinks adapted for all seasons. Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Fritschze frosty white gold and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Mysterious marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and undulating borders of stylized water lilies. A small diamond set in a box setting with mille grain edges sparkles in the center. Created by L. Frtischze & Co. in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Ziething intricately engraved cufflinks, circa 1925.

No note on shimmering wintry cufflinks is complete without a mesmerizing pair of intricately engraved cufflinks by Ziething & Company. Crafted in white gold, these cufflinks almost burst with myriad, exuberant designs. A wonderful example of the early Art Deco passion for rich details and embellished surfaces. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

Irving Heidelsheimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

I hope everyone is enjoying the best of the Holiday Season and anticipating a happy New Year! December is traditionally the month I try to tie up some of the loose ends cluttering my desk. In that spirit this note relates to the "TH" maker and a recently acquired pair of Heidelsheimer cufflinks.

Several months ago I wrote about "mystery makers" - makers of fine cufflinks about whom we know little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. One of these unidentified makers is known as the "TH" maker. The sparkling platinum and diamond cufflinks pictured above may shed some light on this mystery firm.

"TH" maker cufflinks with anthemion corners, circa 1925.

The TH maker created elegant double-sided cufflinks during the 1920s and 30s. The above cufflink is a wonderful example from the early Art Deco period. The cufflink features stylized anthemion (palmette) corners with water lily borders surrounding intricately engine turned centers.

"TH" maker's mark.

The TH maker earned its nickname because of the maker's mark found stamped on the cross bars of the cufflinks - a "T" atop an "H". Beneath the maker's mark a "14" indicates the purity of the gold. The TH maker created cufflinks in 14-karat white and yellow gold.

Reverse of TH maker anthemion and water lily cufflinks.

In addition to elegant design and the maker's mark, the cufflinks of the TH maker are also characterized by distinctive cross bars and brackets. The brackets resemble a small bow tie with the edge outlined with an incised channel. The cross bars have tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. When the maker's mark is obscured, the distinctive brackets and cross bars can aid in identification.

At the beginning of this note a glittering diamond and platinum cufflink created by Irving Heidelsheimer around 1920 is illustrated. Irving Heidelsheimer (succeeded by Irving Manufacturing Company) was a maker of fine gold jewelry and cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. The firm like many of the fine cufflink makers of the day was based in Newark, New Jersey.

Reverse of Heidelsheimer platinum and diamond cufflinks.

Like the TH cufflink, the reverse of the Heidelsheimer cufflink was crafted in 14kt yellow gold. Even more interesting, the brackets and cross bars of the Heidelsheimer cufflink show a marked similarity to corresponding hardware of the TH cufflink.

Both cufflinks feature the same bow tie style bracket with an incised line shadowing the edge. In addition, the cross bars of the two cufflinks are similar in design with tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. A close-up of the cross bar and maker's mark of the Heidelsheimer cufflink is shown below.

Close-up of Heidelsheimer cross bars and maker's mark.

The similarity of the brackets and cross bars strongly suggests that the TH maker and the Heidelsheimer firm were in some way related. But the nature of that relationship remains unclear. Several possibilities suggest themselves:

1. Perhaps, the TH maker was a successor firm to the Irving Manufacturing Company (successor to Irving Heidelsheimer). During this period it was not uncommon for one jewelry firm to absorb another and then continue the designs and patterns of the latter. 2. Or, possibly, Heidelscheimer and the TH maker were one and the same. The "TH" could have been an alternative maker's mark adopted by Heidelsheimer to better fit the small area afforded by the tapered waist of the cross bars. The "H" might have signified "Heidelsheimer". But, then, what of the "T"? 3. A third possibility is that the cross bars and brackets were created by Heidelsheimer and wholesaled as findings (jewelry components) to other jewelry makers. Patent illustrations from 1916 indicate that the Heidelsheimer firm was using this style of crossbar from at least the mid teens. Unfortunately the illustrations don't provide a clear view of the brackets.

Each of these possibilities is no more than speculation. Each points to a direction of further research, but does not currently provide any answers.

When researching antique cufflinks answering one question usually leads to several more. Uncovering one clue leads to another mystery. Such is the endless fascination and mystique of antique jewels.

Heidelsheimer cufflinks, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.