Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include racing comets and exploding fireworks from the Art Deco era, roaring lions and leopards by Carter, Howe and yachting burgees flying in the breeze.

Burgees Aloft   Nautical cufflinks flying the burgee of the New York Yacht Club.   These elegant cufflinks were created by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold circa 1900.   Cost:  Sold

Lions and Leopards  A menacing lion glowers from within his regal, flowing mane while on the other cuff a leopard snarls with equal ferocity.  Created by Carter, Howe & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.  Cost:  $785

Racing Comets  Art Deco comets streak across the night sky.  These lively cufflinks sparkle with diamonds and the exuberance of the Jazz Age.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  $725

Fireworks and Diamonds  A burst of Art Deco brilliance and sparkling diamonds.  The beautifully engraved white gold tops of these cufflinks radiate outward like exploding fireworks.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.  Cost:  $1,125

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Naturally Art Deco ... Cufflinks

Nature inspired Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1920.

The words "Art Deco" inspire thoughts of bold geometric designs and rich contrasting colors celebrating Machine Age chic and a prevailing enthusiasm for streamlined speed. But these iconic themes of the 1920s and 1930s do not exhaust the vocabulary of Art Deco design. Art Deco jewelers, like jewelers during the earlier Victorian period, turned to an eclectic mix of design sources and decorative motifs when seeking inspiration.

In the early 1920s, Art Deco blossomed with a garden of stylized plant motifs which offer a natural counterpoint to the starker designs of late Art Deco. The diamond-set cufflink pictured above features aquatic plants floating against a watery, rippling backdrop. In the corners golden lotus blossoms are silhouetted against "pools" of blue enamel. Created by Charles Keller & Company around 1920, this cufflink is a wonderful example of the nature-inspired jewels of the early Art Deco era.

Breezy pond cufflink, circa 1920.

During the 1920s, an unknown maker* created a small body of cufflinks nicknamed "the breezy pond series". The cufflinks feature Art Deco borders of stylized water plants - water lilies, waving grasses and anthemia (palmettes) - surrounding beautifully engine-turned "pond" centers. The finely engraved centers sparkle with a wavy pattern that brings to mind the rippling surface of a pond in a brisk breeze. Hence the nickname. Several examples of these cufflinks are illustrated above and below.

Breezy pond cufflink, circa 1920.

As the decade of the 1920s passed, the interest in stylized plant motifs was superseded by the bolder forms and geometric designs which eventually morphed into the starkness of mid-Century Modernism. But, for a brief period the in the early 1920s the Art Deco garden blossomed.

* The unknown maker of the last two cufflinks is identified by the maker's mark, a "T" superimposed above an "H". In an earlier post I discussed the possibility that this mystery maker was in some way affiliated with the jewelry firm of Irving Heidelscheimer. Another example of this maker's work is illustrated below.

Art Deco cufflink by TH maker, circa 1925.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Wintry Cufflinks

Wintry Cufflinks

Since the beginning of the year we have had several snow falls. The woods are covered with knee-deep powder that is perfect for snowshoeing and watching the dogs play. In celebration of all the wintry white stuff, I have put together a small collection of platinum and white gold cufflinks that shimmer and sparkle like fresh snow.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss frosty octagons, circa 1925.

These brilliant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks sparkle with wintry elegance and pizazz. The frosty white cufflinks feature pendant garlands (mistletoe?) surrounding snowflake-like centers. A dramatic border of boxes and crosses frames the design. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.

Heidelshimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved with repeating sunrise or wave motifs and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. The diamonds are set in platinum bezels with mille grain edges. Created by Irving Heidelshimer in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Finely engraved "TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

The finely engraved centers of these cufflinks from the "TH" maker shimmer like fields of fresh snow in early morning sunlight. The Art Deco palmette corners and stylized water lily borders offer a sunny counterpoint to our wintry theme. An elegant pair of cufflinks adapted for all seasons. Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Fritschze frosty white gold and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Mysterious marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and undulating borders of stylized water lilies. A small diamond set in a box setting with mille grain edges sparkles in the center. Created by L. Frtischze & Co. in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Ziething intricately engraved cufflinks, circa 1925.

No note on shimmering wintry cufflinks is complete without a mesmerizing pair of intricately engraved cufflinks by Ziething & Company. Crafted in white gold, these cufflinks almost burst with myriad, exuberant designs. A wonderful example of the early Art Deco passion for rich details and embellished surfaces. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

Irving Heidelsheimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

I hope everyone is enjoying the best of the Holiday Season and anticipating a happy New Year! December is traditionally the month I try to tie up some of the loose ends cluttering my desk. In that spirit this note relates to the "TH" maker and a recently acquired pair of Heidelsheimer cufflinks.

Several months ago I wrote about "mystery makers" - makers of fine cufflinks about whom we know little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. One of these unidentified makers is known as the "TH" maker. The sparkling platinum and diamond cufflinks pictured above may shed some light on this mystery firm.

"TH" maker cufflinks with anthemion corners, circa 1925.

The TH maker created elegant double-sided cufflinks during the 1920s and 30s. The above cufflink is a wonderful example from the early Art Deco period. The cufflink features stylized anthemion (palmette) corners with water lily borders surrounding intricately engine turned centers.

"TH" maker's mark.

The TH maker earned its nickname because of the maker's mark found stamped on the cross bars of the cufflinks - a "T" atop an "H". Beneath the maker's mark a "14" indicates the purity of the gold. The TH maker created cufflinks in 14-karat white and yellow gold.

Reverse of TH maker anthemion and water lily cufflinks.

In addition to elegant design and the maker's mark, the cufflinks of the TH maker are also characterized by distinctive cross bars and brackets. The brackets resemble a small bow tie with the edge outlined with an incised channel. The cross bars have tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. When the maker's mark is obscured, the distinctive brackets and cross bars can aid in identification.

At the beginning of this note a glittering diamond and platinum cufflink created by Irving Heidelsheimer around 1920 is illustrated. Irving Heidelsheimer (succeeded by Irving Manufacturing Company) was a maker of fine gold jewelry and cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. The firm like many of the fine cufflink makers of the day was based in Newark, New Jersey.

Reverse of Heidelsheimer platinum and diamond cufflinks.

Like the TH cufflink, the reverse of the Heidelsheimer cufflink was crafted in 14kt yellow gold. Even more interesting, the brackets and cross bars of the Heidelsheimer cufflink show a marked similarity to corresponding hardware of the TH cufflink.

Both cufflinks feature the same bow tie style bracket with an incised line shadowing the edge. In addition, the cross bars of the two cufflinks are similar in design with tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. A close-up of the cross bar and maker's mark of the Heidelsheimer cufflink is shown below.

Close-up of Heidelsheimer cross bars and maker's mark.

The similarity of the brackets and cross bars strongly suggests that the TH maker and the Heidelsheimer firm were in some way related. But the nature of that relationship remains unclear. Several possibilities suggest themselves:

1. Perhaps, the TH maker was a successor firm to the Irving Manufacturing Company (successor to Irving Heidelsheimer). During this period it was not uncommon for one jewelry firm to absorb another and then continue the designs and patterns of the latter. 2. Or, possibly, Heidelscheimer and the TH maker were one and the same. The "TH" could have been an alternative maker's mark adopted by Heidelsheimer to better fit the small area afforded by the tapered waist of the cross bars. The "H" might have signified "Heidelsheimer". But, then, what of the "T"? 3. A third possibility is that the cross bars and brackets were created by Heidelsheimer and wholesaled as findings (jewelry components) to other jewelry makers. Patent illustrations from 1916 indicate that the Heidelsheimer firm was using this style of crossbar from at least the mid teens. Unfortunately the illustrations don't provide a clear view of the brackets.

Each of these possibilities is no more than speculation. Each points to a direction of further research, but does not currently provide any answers.

When researching antique cufflinks answering one question usually leads to several more. Uncovering one clue leads to another mystery. Such is the endless fascination and mystique of antique jewels.

Heidelsheimer cufflinks, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.