New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Dress Sets, Brooches and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegantly striking cufflinks from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras.


Art Nouveau Curves  Elegant, free flowing scrolls accented with a sparkling star-set diamond.  The sinuous, untamed curves are a hallmark of Art Nouveau design.  Finely crafted  in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $865


Sapphires and Stars  Bright blue sapphires set in frosted glass disks.  The dramatic effect is like a distant star shining through wispy clouds in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.
Cost:  $875


Regal Blue  Twilight blue enamels set in boldly sculpted gold cufflinks.  Beneath the enamel a finely engraved radiating pattern shimmers like a distant star in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.
Cost:  $925


Feeling Lucky  A four-leaf clover, lucky horseshoe and wishbone assure the wearer of these Art Nouveau cufflinks the best of good fortune.  Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.  Cost:  $745


In the Tuxedo and Dress Set Gallery you will find a recently added a moss agate tuxedo set and a full dress set with onyx centers and ornate borders by Krementz.


Moss Agates  Mesmerizing moss agates with tangles of swirling green inclusions reminiscent of floating seaweed.  This elegant tuxedo set was created by Larter Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost: $1,375


Onyx and Scrolls  Dark onyx centers surrounded by white gold borders with an elaborate scroll-and-berry design.   An elegant set in the striking black-and-white style of the Jazz Age crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.   Cost:  Sold


New in the Brooch and Pin Gallery is an Art Nouveau brooch with an amethyst, a beautiful Carter, Howe bar pin with a sapphire and fine enamel work, and an Art Deco circle brooch set with sapphires.


Art Nouveau Amethyst  A vibrant amethyst set amid elegant guilloche enamel work framed by a border of gold bands and interlacing Art Nouveau curves.  Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $925


Edwardian Sparkle  A beautifully enameled bar pin set with a blue sapphire and two pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  Cost: $485


Sapphires and Filigree  An elegant Art Deco circle brooch with sparkling man-made sapphires set in intricate filigree work framed by stylized leaf-and-vine borders.  Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $365


New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery is a striking French Art Nouveau stickpin with a chimera clutching a stickpin in its maw.


Chimera and Pearl  A fierce dragon clutches a luminous pearl in its maw.  This golden chimera is a wonderful example of the dramatic and at times terrifying work of French fin de siecle jewelers.  Crafted  in 18kt gold, circa 1900.   Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks, Brooches and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Victorian cufflinks set with sapphires, fierce Krementz lions, striking agate cufflinks by George O. Street and bright gold cufflinks with an "S" monogram.

Sapphires and Scrolls  Late Victorian cufflinks with elegant foliate scrolls surrounding deep blue sapphires set in the raised gold centers. The depth and fine details of the scroll work is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of the era.  Created in 14kt gold, circa 1890.
Cost:  $925

Roaring Lions  A roaring lion proclaims his sovereignty over the windblown grasses of the savanna.  The lion is finely sculpted with a rich golden mane, sharp fangs and fierce, piercing eyes.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  Sold

Tree Agate Wonderfully graphic dendritic agates set in bright yellow gold bezels.  The agates bloom with dark inclusions that soar upward like ancient trees.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.    Cost:  $965

Elegant "S"   Resplendent cufflinks with one side featuring an elegantly engraved "S" in Old English script and the other sparkling with a small diamond set in a star.  Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $625

To complement the above cufflinks we have added a Hans Brassler peridot stickpin in the Antique Stickpin Gallery and a small garnet and pearl brooch by the same maker in the Antique Brooch Gallery.

Peridot Octagon  A wreath of festively interlaced scrolls frames a vibrant green peridot.  The peridot rests in a bezel finished with a milgrained (bead-like) edge.  An elegant stickpin created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $435

Garnet and Pearls  A petit Classical Revival pin set with a fiery red garnet and small luminous pearls.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Stickpins

I hope everyone has enjoyed pleasant holidays and is looking forward to a bright and prosperous New Year!

We have been busy in the gallery with the usual seasonal rush, but have managed to add several new pieces to the collection. These include strikingly beautiful Mermaid and Swan cufflinks by Krementz & Co. and elegant Art Deco Onyx cufflinks by Larter & Sons. In the Antique Stickpin Gallery there is a wonderful amethyst stickpin by Hans Brassler with a sparkling small diamond and laurel wreath sides that soar upward like raised wings.

Mermaid and Swan  A mermaid holding a sceptre sits amid gently swaying cattails while a swan glides by over the rippling water.  The scene is beautifully sculpted and the finely worked gold glows with the light of an early sunrise.  A masterpiece of Art Nouveau design.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $1,325

Onyx Elegance  Elegant black onyx cufflinks with finely detailed Art Deco borders.  The contrast of the black onyx with the white gold borders perfectly highlights the striking geometric elegance of Art Deco design.   Created by Larter & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $565

Amethyst and Diamond  A rich purple amethyst rests in a golden laurel wreath framed by rising volutes.  Beneath the laurel wreath a small diamond sparkles.  A striking example of the imaginative neoclassically inspired jewels created by Hans Brassler.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include Krementz Lions with amethysts, Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks and elegant Carrington Onyx and Platinum cufflinks.

Lions and Amethysts  A roaring lion grasps a deep purple amethyst in his mouth as he announces his authority over the windblown grasses of the savanna.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  Sold

Sapphires and Diamonds  Bright blue sapphires and sparkling diamonds set amid finely engraved, intertwining foliage.  Elegant scroll-and-volute borders in the early Art Deco taste decorate the edges.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Black and Gold  Dramatic cufflinks with intricate scroll and geometric designs highlighted with black enamel accents.  The interplay of the rich designs, hexagonal shape and black enamel tracery give these cufflinks a regal, jazzy elegance.  Crafted in 10kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $575

Radiant Zigzags  Finely engraved zigzags radiate in cascading waves toward white gold borders embellished with geometric and stylized floral motifs.  The shimmering centers and bold borders contrast with perfect Art Deco elegance.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,125

Sapphire Jazz  Bright blue sapphires sparkle amid a cascade of finely engraved lines.  The mesmerizing centers are surrounded by borders of alternating scroll and floral (or dragonfly) motifs.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  $925

Carrington Onyx  The elegant contrast of brilliant, white platinum with the dark reflections of polished onyx.   Finely engraved zigzags on the platinum borders add a final touch of elegance.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $885

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery feature a Winged Lion and pearl stickpin and a Hans Brassler radiant triangle stickpin.

Winged Lion  A fantastic creature with the head of a lion, wings of an eagle and sinuous body of a serpent.  A striking example of the Victorian fascination with mythological creatures.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1890.   Cost:  $375

Pearl Triangle  A rounded triangle set with a luminous pearl.  Golden bridges rise from the corners to cradle the pearl at their apex.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include Art Deco cocktail glasses, striking l' Egyptien cufflinks by Wm. Huger and fiery red carnelians.

Cocktails for Two   Golden cocktail glasses garnished with long-stemmed cherries.  These miniature Manhattans are elegant cufflinks from the days of speakeasies, bathtub gin and Prohibition.  Bottoms up!  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.    Cost:  Sold

Elegant Pinstripes  Elegantly engraved pinstripes in yellow gold surrounded by white gold borders of repeated box-and-cross motifs.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920. Cost:  $1,175

L' Egyptien  Art Deco cufflinks in the neo-Egyptian style of the 1920s.  Lotus blossoms, bundled papyrus reeds and striking geometric designs flourish along the richly detailed borders and a small diamond sparkles in the center.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $975

Carter Carnelian  Ember-like red carnelians set in yellow gold.  The brightness of the gold and sultry luminescence of the carnelians create an elegant dance of light and color, a striking example of Art Deco design.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost:  $845

Art Deco Dazzle  Dazzling Art Deco cufflinks with radiantly engraved centers and bold, geometric borders.  Intricate geometry and the sparkling interplay of light.  Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $925

Carrington Deco  Creamy white mother-of-pearl centers surrounded by bright, linearly engraved platinum borders.  Created by Carrington & Company in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $925

Writhing Serpents  Art Nouveau cufflinks with writhing serpents intertwined with a foliate vine.  The fact that the serpents are rattlesnakes adds a touch of menace.   Beautifully sculpted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $885

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery feature an Art Deco sapphire and diamond stickpin and a Hans Brassler laurel wreath and amethyst stickpin.

Sapphire Geometry  The intertwining, angular lines of a golden interlace cradle a bright blue sapphire and small sparking diamond.  A nice example of the elegant geometry of Art Deco design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920. Cost:  $485

Laurels and Amethyst A rich purple amethyst sits between the soaring branches of a laurel wreath.  Below a small luminous pearl glows in a trefoil setting.  An elegant stickpin created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $625

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include several pairs of Art Deco cufflinks set with bright blue sapphires, an elegant Carrington dress set, striking guilloche enamel cufflinks by Krementz and a number of other richly engraved cufflinks from the early 20th century.

Egyptian Revival  Stylized lotus blossoms and splayed papyrus fronds surround bright blue sapphires and radiant sun bursts adding Pharaonic splendor to these Art Deco cufflinks.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Sapphire and Gold  Rich blue sapphires set amid bright gold centers of concentric circles, stylized acanthus leaves and finely milgrained edges.  The Art Deco jeweler let no chance escape to embellish this richly detailed design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Lavender and Gold  Arresting Art Deco cufflinks with lavender and black enamel centers accented with yellow gold pinstripes and borders.  Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $975

Carrington Elegance  Sparkling diamonds in platinum set amid radiant waves etched in mother-of-pearl all surrounded by jazzy platinum borders  A jazzy example of the Carrington sense of understated elegance.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,625

Winter Jazz  Radiant checkerboard centers surrounded by bold Jazz Age borders.  These Art Deco cufflinks glimmer with the frosty elegance of icicles glittering in the early morning sun.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $875

Pharaoh's Pool  Waving papyrus reeds and elegant anthemia surround a rippling pool of golden water or, perhaps, it is a hidden garden maze.  Art Deco cufflinks with the mysteries of ancient Egypt.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.    Cost:  $875

Pizzazz  Bright Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved platinum centers surrounded by yellow gold borders with stylized palmette corners.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $485

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a fierce dragon, a golden bug and a lapis lazuli scarab.

Regal Dragon  A fierce dragon watches menacingly while maintaining a certain regal composure.  The dragon is beautifully rendered - note the fine details of the wings, the scales along the neck and body and the expressive features of the head.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $425

The Gold Bug The diamond-set head, elongated shield-shape body and golden forelegs of this abstractly rendered insect are framed by dramatically outward sweeping wings.  A wonderful example of American Art Nouveau design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $475

Scarab and Serpents  The mysteries of ancient Egypt ... two serpents with entwined tails surround a scarab carved in lapis lazuli.  A stylized lotus blossom rest atop the serpents and scarab.  This stickpin was created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $725

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Art of the Enameller - Guilloche Enamel Cufflinks

Whiteside & Blank blue guilloche enamel cufflinks.

One of the pleasures of antique cufflinks is exploring the great variety of decorative techniques used in their creation. Among the rarer and more beautiful cufflinks are those decorated with guilloche enameling.

Guilloche enamel brings together two venerable and exacting arts - enameling and engine turning. Enameling is the art of fusing powdered glass onto a metal or other substrate. As the powdered glass melts and cools it forms a lustrous vitreous surface. Enameled jewels date back to the ancient Mycenaean civilization of Cyprus. The Mycenaean ornaments (sorry, no cufflinks were found) date to the 13th century BC. The beautiful blue enamel cufflinks pictured at the top of this note are a little more contemporary. They date from around 1920 and were created in the jewelry workshops of Whiteside & Blank.

Beautifully engine-turned platinum cufflinks by Carrington.

Engine turning (or guilloche) is the art of mechanically engraving intricate, repeating designs on a metallic or other surface. Among the common guilloche patterns are shimmering radiant stars, wavy lines and spirals, pinstripes, concentric circles and other figures. The Carrington cufflinks pictured above are a beautiful example of the engine turner's art with jagged radiating curves surrounded by an equally intricate border. The depth and fineness of the engraving gives the design a striking three-dimensional appearance.

The allure of the machine - a rose engine lathe, circa 1800.

The art of engine turning emerged in Germany during the early 1500s with the invention of the rose engine lathe. Initially applied to softer materials like ivory, the technique was soon adapted to create elaborate designs on metal and glass. At one time in Germany engine turning (or "rose turning") was an enthusiastically pursued pastime of rulers and noblemen. The rose engine lathes, themselves, are beautifully crafted machines that are as intriguing and intricate as the designs they create.

Carrington purple guilloche enamel cufflinks.

When an engine turned surface is covered with a layer of translucent, colored enamel magic occurs. The colored enamel pools in the valleys of the engraved lines mirroring the engraved design in rich color. Subtle variations in the depth of the engraving are reflected in the shading of the color and the engraved pattern is thrown into stunning relief. The effect is mesmerizing.

Carrington blue-gray guilloche enamel cufflinks.

The enthusiasm for guilloche enameling during the late 19th and early 20th century was sparked by the creations of the master Russian jeweler Peter Carl Faberge. Faberge and his work masters created a dazzling array of enameled jewels and objets d'art. In doing so they elevated the arts of engine turning and enameling to new heights. Among Faberge's many enameled creations were cufflinks, desk accessories and the famous Faberge Easter Eggs.

The above Carrington cufflinks may have been inspired by Faberge's work. The subdued blue-gray enamel and classic canted-corner shape of the cufflinks recalls the elegant jewels of the Russian master. They illustrate the simple, elegant designs favored by Carrington & Co. and the firm's uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship.

William Huger blue guilloche enamel and gold cufflink.

Equal to Carrington & Co. in creating beautiful guilloche enamel cufflinks was William Huger & Company. Of the two firms Carrington was the more prolific. But what Huger lacked in production numbers the firm more than made up for with the beauty of its designs, as illustrated by the above exquisite example.

The above Huger cufflink features an intricately engine-turned pattern wedded with light blue enamel. The effect is like exploding blue fire works in a dark evening sky. Gold borders of foliate and geometric scrolls frame the enamel centers.

Krementz & Co. guilloche enamel cufflink.

To close, I offer three more examples of guilloche enamel cufflinks. Two of the cufflinks are from small batch makers (Jacob Hookaylo and Taylor & Co.), firms that like William Huger created extraordinarily beautiful cufflinks, but only in limited numbers. The expression "small batch maker" is in analogy to the distillers of fine, but limited run, bourbons and ryes. The other cufflink (above) is by Krementz & Co., a prolific and seemingly ubiquitous manufacturer of fine cufflinks during the late 19th and early 20th century.

Jacob Hookaylo guilloche enamel cufflink.

Taylor & Co. guilloche enamel cufflink.

To view guilloche enamel and other fine cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.