New in the Gallery - Cufflinks and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include beautifully engraved Carrington platinum and gold cufflinks with blue enamel borders, inescapably elegant two-tone cufflinks from Lebolt & Company, and striking midcentury Garrigus cufflinks set with sapphire cabochons.

Platinum Blues  Intricately engraved platinum and gold cufflinks accented with a striking course of blue enamel.  Created by Carrington & Company,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

Inescapably Elegant  Early Art Deco cufflinks with finely-engraved, frosty platinum centers surrounded by yellow gold borders with a rippling, never-ending wave.  Crafted in 14kt gold and platinum,  circa 1920.    Cost:  Sold

Sapphire Moderne  Sapphire cabochons set in beautifully engraved platinum tops.  A testament to the elegance of mid-century design.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1950.    Cost:  Sold

New in the Antique Brooch and Pin Gallery are a dramatic Art Nouveau brooch set with three pearls and an elegant black and gold bar pin from Carter, Howe.

Art Nouveau Pearls  An Art Nouveau brooch with flowing leaves and vines,  or are they wisps of smoke,  accented with three creamy pearls.  Crafted 14kt gold, circa 1900.     Cost:  $685

Black and Gold  An elegant Edwardian bar pin highlighted with black enamel and set with a small pearl.  Crafted in 14kt gold.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks, Stickpins and Brooches

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a golden garden of exuberant blossoms, elegantly modern carnelian and white gold cufflinks, and a pair of sleeve links from H.A. Kirby with diamonds and frothy scrolls.

Golden Garden  An exuberant tangle of flowers, buds and leaves recalls the sinuous curves of Art Nouveau and the flattened perspective of Japanese prints.  A tribute to the unabashed eclecticism of early Art Deco jewelry designers.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.    Cost:  $665

Moderne Carnelian  Glowing ember-like carnelians set in white gold.  The cool brilliance of the gold contrasts beautifully with the warm sultry red of the carnelians .  Created by Carter, Gough & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.    Cost:  $885

Diamonds and Scrolls  A bright, solitary diamond floats like an early morning star above a profusion of tight, feathery scrolls  A wonderful example of the Art Nouveau cufflinks created by H.A. Kirby.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.    Cost:  $675

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery and the Antique Brooch Gallery feature a beautiful sapphire and pearl stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste and a striking blue guilloche enamel brooch from Carter, Howe.

Sapphire and Pearl  Flowing Art Nouveau curves with a hint of Gothic frame a blue sapphire and luminous pearl.  The elegant angles and openness of the design are reminiscent of the stone tracery surrounding a window in a Medieval cathedral.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.
Cost:  $475

Carter Blue  Rich blue enamel framed in yellow gold and accented with numerous seed pearls.  Created by Carter, Howe & Co.,  circa 1900,  in 14kt gold.    Cost:  $675

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include winged lions, striking platinum and blue enamel Art Moderne cufflinks and an elegant dress set of carved onyx with pearls.

Winged Lions and Sapphires  Victorian gentlemen delighted in jewels decorated with exotic and fantastic creatures.  Here a winged lion-serpent fiercely guards a bright blue sapphire.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.     Cost:  $1,275

Platinum and Blue  The elegant contrast between frosty platinum pinstripes and regal blue enamel in the Art Moderne taste of the 1930s.  Created by Carrington & Co. in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1935.    Cost:  Sold

Engraved Onyx  Elegant dress set with beautifully engraved black onyx tops accented with small pearls and white gold borders.  The elegance of Jazz Age black tie attire.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.    Cost:  $1,825

Recent additions to the Antique Stickpin Gallery feature a striking Brassler lapis lazuli stickpin and a Victorian golden scarb.

Lapis Lazuli  Brilliant blue lapis lazuli with small, golden accents is set beneath flowing Art Nouveau curves and Classical laurel wreath borders.  A wonderful example of the imaginative jewels created by Hans Brassler.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $685

Golden Scarab  Victorian stickpin with a shimmering golden scarab set in a small shadow box.  The frame is decorated with fine wire scrollwork and small golden orbs.  A tour de force of Victorian jewelry making.  Created in 14kt gold, circa 1875.    Cost:  $675

Recent additions to the Antique Brooch Gallery include a wonderful sapphire and pearl brooch created by United Jewelers.

Sapphire and Pearls  A golden brooch with a richly engraved frame of floral and geometric motifs and small, luminous pearls accenting the corners.  A light blue sapphire rests in the center.    Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include an elegant pair of Carrington onyx and diamond cufflinks, Art Deco cufflinks with an endless tangle of squiggles, shimmering cat's eyes set in mid century cufflinks by L.E. Garrigus and fraternal cufflinks from the Benevolent and Protective Order of the Elks.

Onyx and Diamond  Black onyx set with sparkling diamonds is perhaps the epitome of Art Deco elegance.  These beautifully crafted cufflinks were created by Carrington & Co. in 14kt gold around 1925.
Cost:  Sold

Infinite Squiggles  A seemingly endless tangle of golden squiggles give these elegant cufflinks a shimmering affect reminiscent of fine, watered silk.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.    Cost  $675

Art Moderne  Abstract cuff sculpture that beautifully captures the stark, modern designs of the mid century.  Set with shimmering cat's eye chrysoberyls.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1950.    Cost:  Sold

Order of the Elks  The elk, clock and star are symbols of the Benevolent and Protective Order of the Elks.  These richly detailed cufflinks were likely worn by a loyal member of the local lodge.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.    Cost: $625

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a striking Egyptian Revival stickpin by Hans Brassler, an elegant Belle Epoque stickpin from France and a roaring lion with fiery ruby eyes.

Pharaohs and Scarab  An Egyptian Revival stickpin with two Pharaohs flanking a heliotrope (bloodstone) scarab.  The two Pharaohs and other design elements are finely sculpted with a rich patina that throws the myriad details into high relief.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.    Cost:  $885

Belle Epoque  A beautifully designed French stickpin from the Belle Epoque period set with sparkling rose-cut diamonds, a luminous pearl and bright ruby.  Finely crafted in 18kt gold and platinum,  circa 1900.
Cost:  $775

Roaring Lion  A lion roars while clutching a sparkling diamond in his mouth.  The lion's fierce aspect is accented with fiery red eyes (likely rubies or garnets).  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $475

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

The Mesmerizing Cufflinks of Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss

WAB gold and black cufflinks, circa 1925.

The Mesmerizing Cufflinks of
Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss

During the the 1920s Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss (WAB) created a collection of yellow gold cufflinks with mesmerizing centers and dramatic black enamel borders. The design of the cufflinks reflected the Art Deco interest in abstract geometric patterns and striking visual affects.

WAB richly detailed oval cufflinks, circa 1925.

Often I discuss at length the cufflinks illustrated in this blog. But sometimes it is best to let the cufflinks speak for themselves. The beauty and elegance of these cuff jewels needs no explanation.

WAB circle and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

One of the pleasing aspects of this collection of cufflinks is their balanced design. The first two cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note are richly detailed, but the design is not overly cluttered. While the cufflink immediately above is somewhat plainer, the elegant simplicity of the design is beautifully accented with a sparkling diamond. Just the right balance of pizazz and simplicity for the cufflinks to be interesting without being over embellished.

WAB bull's eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss created fine cufflinks from the early 1900s into the 1930s. They were prolific makers who catered to a wide variety of fashions and tastes.

The elegant black and gold cufflinks pictured above date from the 1920s or possibly early 1930s. By the 1930s jewelry tastes were evolving. The warm tones of yellow gold were being displaced by the cool elegance of white gold and platinum. The angular, starker designs of Art Moderne came to predominate. A striking example by WAB is pictured below.

WAB Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Cufflinks with Enamel Accents

Krementz guilloche enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

Enamel Accents

Long-term readers of this blog are aware of my passion for guilloche enamel cufflinks. The gem-like enamels covering richly engraved patterns are miniature masterpieces equal to any precious gemstone. An example of guilloche enameling by Krementz & Company is pictured above.

But, beautiful enamel work in antique cufflinks is not limited to dramatic guilloche centers. Enamel accents were often employed as borders framing engraved surfaces or gem-set centers. At other times, intricate enamel tracery was an integral part of the design, itself. The enamels added eye-catching color and contrast.

British cufflinks with blue enamel accents, circa 1925.

The above British cufflinks shimmer with intoxicating blue enamel borders surrounding intricately engine-turned (machine engraved) centers. The translucent enamel highlights an underlying ripple pattern. The wedding of deep blue enamel and warm yellow gold is inescapably elegant.

During the 1920s and 30s, British cufflink makers created some of the most beautiful enamel and engine-turned cufflinks. British enamel work and engine turning may be a good topic for a future note. Another beautiful example of the artistry of British engine turning can be found at the end of this note.

Larter "squiggle" cufflinks with dark blue enamel borders.

Enamel accents were added to cufflinks using an ancient technique known as "champlevé." Under this technique recesses were carved or cast into the upper surfaces of the cufflinks. Then, vitreous enamels in the form of glass powder were fired in the recesses. The recesses served to both define the pattern of the enamel work and protect it. Once the cufflinks had cooled the surfaces were polished, creating a beautiful interplay between the colorful enamels and the precious metal.

For example, the Larter & Sons cufflinks pictured above feature a double border of deep blue enamel set between polished bands of gold. The unusual center pattern is a myriad of twisting forms, a design we have nicknamed "Infinite Squiggles". Larter had a knack for creating beautiful cufflinks with intriguing gold centers and striking enamel borders.

Larter "Blue and Gold" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Another example of Larter's virtuosity in creating beautiful cufflinks featuring richly detailed gold centers and dramatic enamel borders. The blue enamel borders frame stylized floral motifs. The radial symmetry of the design gives the cufflinks a mesmerizing kaleidoscopic effect. Crafted in 14kt gold around 1920.

Richardson black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1929 an exhibition of jewels in Paris challenged the early Art Deco penchant for vibrant, bold colors. At the exhibition striking all-white and black-and-white jewelry captured the imagination of designers and the public. During the 1930s jewels crafted in platinum or white gold were set with sparkling diamonds, black onyx, white pearls and shimmering dark enamels. These dramatic jewels came to define the striking elegance of the Art Moderne look.

Cufflink maker's were not immune to the emerging fashion. Pictured above and below are striking black-and-white cufflinks created by the Richardson Manufacturing Company during the 1930s. Crafted in 14kt white gold, they feature centers of jazzy, wavy lines surrounded by dramatic black enamel borders.

Richardson black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Founded by Enos Richardson in 1841, Richardson Manufacturing Company (originally Enos Richardson & Company) was one of the longest surviving American jewelry makers. Based in Newark, New Jersey, the firm created a broad range of jewels and accessories in silver and gold. The firm's striking black-and-white cufflinks from the Art Deco era are among the rarities of enamel cufflinks.

Keller Arts & Crafts cufflinks, circa 1910.

Another long-established American maker of fine cufflinks was Charles Keller & Company. Among the firm's creations were gold cufflinks accented with blue enamel designs. The cufflinks were crafted in 10 and 14kt gold and date from the early 1900s till the 1930s.

The cufflink pictured above dates from the Arts & Crafts period (circa 1910) and features a striking blue enamel border that anticipates the bold, geometric designs of the later Art Deco period. For further examples of Keller blue and gold cufflinks see my earlier note Keller Blues.

British engine-turned cufflinks, circa 1930.

Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Art Deco Cufflinks

Art Deco Cufflinks

Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

The Art Deco era roughly coincided with the decades between 1920 and 1940, although examples of Art Deco design can be found from earlier and later periods. Art Deco was in part a reaction to the sinuous naturalism and eclectic historicism of earlier styles. But, even more, Art Deco was a reflection of the optimism, the sense of newness of a world entering the post-World War I period.

Common Art Deco themes include dramatic sunbursts, stylized flora and bold geometric forms. The cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of the latter. The bold, sculptural tops are set with rich green step-cut Tourmalines. The color and cut of the gemstones beautifully complements the design of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold around 1930.

Stylized palmette and water lily cufflinks, circa 1920.

From slightly earlier in the Art Deco period, the above white gold cufflinks feature dramatic anthemion corners and borders of stylized water lilies. In early Art Deco cufflinks, flowers and plants were rendered in stylized form. It was a movement away from the wild, untamed plants and vines celebrated in Art Nouveau and late Victorian designs. But as the Art Deco period progressed the stylized flora withered and were replaced by the abstract, more austere designs of the later Art Moderne.

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design followed the motto "Leave no surface undecorated." This exuberant pair of Frank Krementz cufflinks illustrates the finesse with which Art Deco jewelers could work a profusion of decoration into a very small area. The centers feature dramatic sunrises bisected by bands of black enamel and white gold. Surrounding the central motif is an oval course of engraved yellow gold with mille grain edges. The cufflinks are finished with white gold borders of repeating sunrise motifs.

Ziething jazzy cufflinks, circa 1925.

A discussion of Jazz Age cufflinks would be remiss if it failed to mention the bright, glittering cuff jewels of Ziething & Company. Ziething created mesmerizing links engraved with an almost obsessive level of detail. The cufflinks are embellished with radiating starbursts, bold geometric patterns and intricate designs. Ziething cufflinks are particularly beautiful in the flickering light of a candle. The above pair was crafted in 10kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Dramatic black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Many Art Deco jewels featured vibrant gemstones or rich colored enamels. The tourmaline cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note are a wonderful example.

The late 1920s saw the rise to a second direction in Art Deco design. Striking jewels emphasizing contrasts between black and white captured the public eye. The above cufflinks feature labyrinth-like Chinese-key motifs highlighted against black enamel. The bright white gold centers are engraved with linear pinstripes. The black-and-white cufflinks of the 1930s are among the most sophisticated and elegant jewels of the era.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks, circa 1925.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the 20th century. This pair of Art Deco links achieves a pleasing balance between the exuberant details of the Krementz and Ziething pictured above and the stark elegance of black-and-white designs. The hypnotic centers are surrounded by stippled borders, parallel curved lines and attenuated Chinese-key motifs in black enamel. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

"Architectural" cufflinks by William Huger, circa 1930.

In closing, I illustrate a pair of cufflinks from one of my favorite makers during the Art Deco era, William Huger & Company. The firm embraced the aesthetics of Art Deco design and created beautiful jewels of the cuff. The cufflinks are imbued with the same spirit that inspired America's largest contribution to Deco design - soaring, modern skyscrapers.

The above Huger white gold cufflinks feature stylized blossoms, geometric meanders and soaring pinstripe centers that bring to mind the Chrysler Building, Rockefeller Plaza and the other outsized icons of American Art Deco. The successful celebration of Art Deco in both the smallest and largest of objects is a witness to the styles nearly universal appeal.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Kohn & Company Cufflinks

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1925.

Kohn & Company Cufflinks

Last month I wrote about several cufflink makers about whom we know very little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. This month's note features cufflinks from another "mystery maker", Kohn & Company.

Art Deco black and white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Kohn & Company created wonderful gold cufflinks that were designed with a touch of whimsy and fun. While the cufflinks created by firms like Carrington and Carter, Gough are stately in their elegance, the cufflinks of Kohn & Company are just as elegant, but with a lighter touch. I have to confess a fondness for the cufflinks of this firm.

Historical information about Kohn & Company is sketchy. The firm appears to have been founded in the early 1900s and ceased operations in the 1930s or early 1940s. Like many of the fine cufflink makers of the time, Kohn & Company was based in Newark, New Jersey.

White and yellow gold star burst cufflinks, circa 1925.

The firm created cufflinks and other jewels in 10kt and 14kt white and yellow gold. The cufflinks were sometimes set with small sapphires or diamonds. Dark enamels were also used to highlight the engraved designs and borders.

Radiant sapphire cufflinks, circa 1935.

The cufflinks reflect the broad currents of the Art Deco and Art Moderne design. Occasionally you will observe repeated geometric and linear patterns that are reminiscent of the earlier Arts & Crafts period. The style of the surviving cufflinks and the frequent use of white gold suggest that the firm began creating cufflinks around 1920.

Kohn & Company employed several maker's marks. On cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold the makers mark is a cone lying above a slanted "14K" gold purity mark. A variation of this mark has the gold mark "14K" placed inside the broad end of the cone.

On cufflinks crafted in 10kt gold the mark is the numeral "10" with a oversized "K" between the one and zero. The mark is usually found stamped on one side of the cross bars or on top of the quad brackets on 14kt gold pieces.

Please note, I have not found separate documentation of the 14kt mark shown above. I have attributed the mark to Kohn & Company based on its similarity to known Kohn marks and the shared styles of the cufflinks. This is an area for further research. I am interested in any thoughts from readers.

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1930.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.