Egyptian Revival Cufflinks and Jewels

Egyptian Revival cufflink, circa 1890.

For centuries artists and architects, mystics and jewelers have been inspired by the arts and artifacts of ancient Egypt. Cufflink and jewelry makers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were no exception. The jewels they created often reflected the popular fascination with the mysteries and ruins of the venerable kingdom of the Pharaohs. Here is a sampling of Egyptian Revival cufflinks and jewels from the Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods.

In the Victorian era interest in the Egyptian past was sparked by archeological expeditions which highlighted ancient civilizations and the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. The cufflink illustrated above is a striking, beautifully sculpted example of the prevailing Egypto-mania. Created by Sloan & Co. around 1890, the winged scarab appears ready to leap into flight with dramatic, upward sweeping wings and tightly sprung legs. A rich, antique finish gives the gold an aura of ancient splendors and the mysterious past. For the ancient Egyptians - and perhaps the late Victorians, as well - the scarab was a symbol of life and resurrection imbued with amuletic powers.

Krementz Art Nouveau cufflink, circa 1900.

In the 1890s Art Nouveau jewelers wedded a strong personal vision with a sense of mysticism and fantasy to create jewels of unbridled imagination. They turned away from the revival styles of earlier decades in an effort to create something new. And, yet, the fascination with the Egyptian past persisted.

Krementz & Company was one of the early proponents of Art Nouveau design in North America. The above Krementz cufflink brings together the exoticism and sinuous curves of the new fashion with an elaborate headdress and ostrich feather plumes suggestive of the splendor of the Pharaohs.

During this period Sarah Bernhardt captured the public imagination with dramatic roles as Cleopatra and other heroines and heroes of myth and history. Costumed in the jewels of Rene Lalique and celebrated in the posters of Alphonse Mucha, the French actress was both a patron and muse to the Art Nouveau. Perhaps the exotic design of these cufflinks was inspired in part by the actress lauded as "The Divine Sarah".

WAB Egyptian Revival cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

As the figural designs of the late Victorian and Art Nouveau periods evolved into the abstract, geometric designs of the Art Deco era, the discovery of King Tut's tomb sparked a renewed interest in the Egyptian past. The stylized motifs and geometric designs of the ancient Egyptians spoke to Art Deco jewelers, designers and architects.

The above cufflink created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss (WAB) illustrates the Art Deco take on Egyptian Revival. Stylized papyrus fronds and lotus blossoms in an abstract cruciform design are surrounded by jazzy, zigzag borders along the beveled edges of the cufflinks. WAB was a leading cufflink maker of the Art Deco era and excelled at creating jewels that captured the spirit and elegance of the age - both the ancient and the modern.

The fascination with the Egyptian past was expressed in many forms of jewelry and decorative objects. Here we illustrate a Victorian pin with a winged scarab flanked by two green-eyed peacocks and a stickpin created by Hans Brassler of a stylized scarab set with a richly colored bloodstone.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

For stickpins and brooches visit the Antique Stickpin Gallery
and Antique Brooch Gallery.

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflinks Gallery include elegant British cufflinks set with blue and white enamels in rose gold and a striking pair of Art Deco cufflinks by the "TH" mystery maker.

Blue and White  Elegant British cufflinks enlivened with blue and white enamels set in radiating frames of rose gold.  The warm tone of the rose gold beautifully complements the rich, vibrant colors of the enamels.  Crafted in 9kt rose gold, circa 1950.

Art Deco Elegance  Stylized water lilies and waving grasses surround centers engraved with a pattern evocative of ripples on a wind blown pond.  A nice example of the wonderfully detailed, beautifully designed cufflinks of the Art Deco era.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

These and other fine cufflinks can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss diamond-set cufflinks and Carrington cufflinks with flowing "B" monograms. Other additions include a regal lion stickpin with ruby eyes and a diamond, a stickpin with a fierce dragon guarding a bright sapphire and a wonderful Hans Brassler amethyst and pearl brooch.

Diamonds and Garlands  Jazz Age cufflinks sparkling with the celebratory, festive mood of the 1920s.  This elegant pair features sparkling diamonds, golden garlands and bright white gold Art Deco borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Carrington "B"  Elegant gold cufflinks with "B" monograms in flowing script.  During the decades around 1900 distinctive monograms were often engraved to personalize cufflinks.  Created by Carrington & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Regal Lion  A regal lion grasps a shimmering diamond in his mouth and stares menacingly with fiery, dark red eyes (likely garnets or rubies).  The lion is beautifully sculpted with finely detailed whiskers and a flowing mane.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Griffin and Sapphire  A beautifully sculpted winged lion-serpent fiercely guards a bright blue sapphire.  The tail of the fantastic creature flows beneath the sapphire with elegant scrolls and acanthus leaves.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Brassler Amethyst and Pearls  A beautiful brooch with a rich purple amethyst and pearls.  A wonderful example of Hans Brassler's imaginative, unique work.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

The above fine cufflinks, stickpins and brooch, can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Galleries include a beautiful pair of blue enamel and garland cufflinks by Larter & Sons, bold Art Deco pinstripe links, elegant George O. Street tiger eye cufflinks, and a pair of English cipher cufflinks. Other recent additions include an Egyptian Revival stickpin by Alling & Company and a wonderful "Serpent de Mer" stickpin by French jewelers Plisson et Hartz.

Garlands and Blues   Classically inspired wreathes of festive garlands surrounding centers reminiscent of exploding fireworks.  The elegant design is beautifully set off by rich blue enamel borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold by Larter & Sons,  circa 1925.

Art Deco Pinstripes  Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with golden pinstripes alternating with brightly polished bands of white gold.  A nice example of the geometric pinstripe designs of the later Art Deco period.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Tiger Eye  Elegant cufflinks with beautiful tiger eyes set in finely crafted yellow gold.  The domed tiger eyes feature rich brown edges shading to glowing, honey yellow "eyes."  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1940.

English Ciphers  The Victorians loved richly detailed ciphers of entwined letters and contrasting fonts.  These British cufflinks feature a flowing, organic "L" interlaced with a Gothic, wooden "E".  Crafted in 9kt gold, circa 1928.

Alling Egyptian Revival  The flowing, geometric design of this stickpin is a wonderful example of the inspiration jewelers in the the early 1900s found in the arts and architecture of ancient Egypt.  Created by Alling & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Serpent de Mer  A writhing sea serpent clutches a luminous pearl.  In the late 1800s French jewelers created a menagerie of fantastic and mythological creatures.  This boldly sculpted sea serpent with life-like fins and a tail that appears to be floating in water is a wonderful example.  Crafted in 18kt gold,  circa 1900.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpins, can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery and the Antique Stickpin Gallery

The Great Cufflink Caper and the Mystery Maker

Cufflink by the Maltese Cross Maker, circa 1900.

The Great Cufflink Caper

In an earlier post (April 30. 2011) I discussed an unattributed group of cufflinks created in the flowing Art Nouveau style of the early 1900s.  The cufflinks were created by an unidentified maker which I provisionally named the "Maltese Cross Maker." The name reflected the unusual signature mark of the maker - a Maltese cross in a circular recess stamped on the reverse of the cufflinks.

Several readers suggested that this mark resembled the maker's mark of H. A. Kirby, a jewelry manufacturer based in Providence, Rhode Island.  The suggestion was a good one, H. A. Kirby was likely the mystery maker.  Since then I have been on the look out for documentary evidence - period catalogs, advertisements in trade journals, news articles - that would confirm H. A. Kirby as a maker of fine cufflinks.

On a recent Spring evening I came across the following article in the August 30, 1899 edition of The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review, a trade journal serving the retail and wholesale jewelry industry.  I like to think of the events described as "The Great Cufflink Caper." One of the interesting aspects of the article is that the average value of the stolen cufflinks was $20.00 to $25.00. These were truly expensive cufflinks for the period.

H.A. Kirby Diamond-set Cufflink, circa 1900.

H.A. KIRBY CO. SYSTEMATICALLY ROBBED
BY AN OCCASIONAL EMPLOYEE

The robbery of a large number of diamond cuff buttons, which occurred about July 27, became generally known Monday through a sensational article in a New York newspaper. The story was based on the arrest of Harry Pye, who gave his address as 94 King St., New York, and whose incarceration and indictment have been kept secret up to this time. Pye was arrested by Central Office Detectives Boyle and Carpenters, who are detailed to cover the pawn shops of the city, while in the act of pawning a number of cuff buttons. He was taken into custody, and besides a number of buttons, 25 pawn tickets, all calling for similar articles, were found upon his person. Pye, the detectives learned, was a brother of Willie Pye, a young man employed occasionally in the New York office of the H. A. Kirby Co., 9-13 Maiden Lane. Willie Pye's business was to help the firm's New York representative, Archibald Rutherford, to get ready his samples and to carry the cases.


On July 27 about 100 pairs of cuff buttons were supposed to have been put into one of Mr. Rutherford's cases, but upon his arrival in Boston he found that they were not there. Inquiry at the New York office disclosed the fact that they had been taken from the stock, and the case was put into the hands of the detectives the same day that Harry Pye was arrested. While it is believed beyond a doubt that the articles were stolen by Willie Pye and turned over to his brother to pawn, the arrested man would, however, give no information as to his accomplice or accomplices. At the office of the H. A. Kirby Co. Monday, it was stated that Willie Pye had not, up to that time, been arrested. The value of the goods, it is stated is between $2,000 and $2,500.

Exuberant Sunflower Cufflinks by H.A. Kirby, circa 1900.

In a follow-up note the eponymous founder of H.A. Kirby Co. was reticent about discussing the theft.

H. A. KIRBY REFUSES TO TALK ON THE MATTER

Providence, R.I.  Aug. 28 - H.A. Kirby, of the H.A. Kirby Co., was seen in reference to the report in the New York Herald, but would not talk on the subject.

Kirby Clover Leaf Stickpin, circa 1900.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Galleries include intriguing bloodstone cufflinks from Sansbury and Nellis and a winged-scarab stickpin by Hans Brassler, Jazz Age lapis lazuli and gold cufflinks, Art Nouveau foliate scroll cufflinks, and elegant sapphire and diamond cufflinks with intricately engraved platinum tops.

Heliotrope  Heliotrope is a beautiful gemstone with the mesmerizing appearance of fiery embers smoldering in a dark ashes.  These elegant cufflinks were created by Sansbury & Nellis during the Art Deco era.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Scarab and Bloodstone  A wonderful interpretation of a winged scarab by Hans Brassler.  In this imaginative jewel, the jeweler combined elements of Art Nouveau, Gothic Revival and Arts & Crafts design while evoking the mysteries of ancient Egypt.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.

Lapis and Gold   The rich blue of lapis lazuli accented with small bits of fools gold beautifully captures the elegant, raucous spirit of the Jazz Age.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Feathery Scrolls  Art Nouveau flowing, feathery scrolls.  The flowing design of these cufflinks may have been inspired by crashing waves along a rocky shore or ferns unfurling in the early Spring.  Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphire and Diamonds   Beautifully engraved cufflinks set with rich blue sapphires and sparkling white diamonds.  The hexagonal borders feature intricate geometric designs in the Art Deco fashion.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpin, can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery and the Antique Stickpin Gallery

Recent Addition - Carrington Engraved Mother-of-Pearl Dress Set

Art Deco dress set, circa 1930.

Carrington & Company created some of the finest dress sets of the Art Deco era. The firm's elegant creations included sets with beautifully engraved mother-of pearl centers. This jazzy example shimmers with radiant star centers surrounded by wavy platinum borders. The set beautifully captures the exuberant spirit of the Jazz Age. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Dress set in Tiffany & Company case.

The dress set was purchased at Tiffany & Company during the 1920s or 30s. The set is shown above in its original Tiffany case covered in green leather and lined with white silk. The inside of the lid is signed "Tiffany & Co./New York/Paris London" and the underside of the case is blind stamped "Tiffany&Co." just beneath the clasp. Carrington & Comapny was a significant supplier of fine dress sets and other jewels to Tiffany's in the early part of the last century.

These and many other examples of elegant cufflinks and dress sets
from the past can be found in the Antique Cufflinks Gallery

Krementz Art Nouveau Iris Cufflinks

Art Nouveau iris cufflinks, circa 1900.

Beautiful Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring richly detailed irises. A nice example of the flowing, intertwining designs favored in the years around 1900. Note how the leaves of the irises flow around the edge of the cufflinks to create the border and accenting scrolls. Crafted in 14kt gold by Krementz and Company, circa 1900.

These and many other examples of elegant cufflinks from the past
can be found in the Antique Cufflinks Gallery

Happy New Year!

Charles Keller sapphire and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Happy New Year!

I hope everyone has enjoyed the best of the holidays and is looking forward to a happy New Year!

The past several months, I have been pulled away from my first love, antique cufflinks. Several other jewelry-related projects have needed attention. I am looking forward in the new year to getting back to researching and writing about antique cuffflinks and adding new acquistions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

I recently acquired a nice pair of Art Nouveau iris cufflinks and a wonderful Carrington dress set with etched mother-of-pearl centers. I will be adding these to the gallery in next the several weeks. Also, I am completing several new articles on the history and artistry of antique cufflinks that I will be posting in the next few months.

Until then, I hope everyone is well and enjoys the best of 2013!

Art Anderson

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Gallery include an elegant Whiteside & Blank stickpin and a beautifully lifelike anemone brooch crafted in gold.

Peridot and Garlands  A shimmering green perdiot set amid flowing bellflowers and pendant drops.  The elegant design of this stickpin recalls the Classical Revival styles of the Napoleonic and American Federal periods.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.

Golden Anemone  Beautifully crafted brooch of an anemone with richly detailed petals, stamens and center.  In the late Victorian era jewels realistically depicting flowers were the fashion.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

The above fine stickpin and brooch from the past, can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery. Please also
visit the Antique Cufflinks Gallery

The Mesmerizing Cufflinks of Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss

WAB gold and black cufflinks, circa 1925.

The Mesmerizing Cufflinks of
Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss

During the the 1920s Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss (WAB) created a collection of yellow gold cufflinks with mesmerizing centers and dramatic black enamel borders. The design of the cufflinks reflected the Art Deco interest in abstract geometric patterns and striking visual affects.

WAB richly detailed oval cufflinks, circa 1925.

Often I discuss at length the cufflinks illustrated in this blog. But sometimes it is best to let the cufflinks speak for themselves. The beauty and elegance of these cuff jewels needs no explanation.

WAB circle and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

One of the pleasing aspects of this collection of cufflinks is their balanced design. The first two cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note are richly detailed, but the design is not overly cluttered. While the cufflink immediately above is somewhat plainer, the elegant simplicity of the design is beautifully accented with a sparkling diamond. Just the right balance of pizazz and simplicity for the cufflinks to be interesting without being over embellished.

WAB bull's eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss created fine cufflinks from the early 1900s into the 1930s. They were prolific makers who catered to a wide variety of fashions and tastes.

The elegant black and gold cufflinks pictured above date from the 1920s or possibly early 1930s. By the 1930s jewelry tastes were evolving. The warm tones of yellow gold were being displaced by the cool elegance of white gold and platinum. The angular, starker designs of Art Moderne came to predominate. A striking example by WAB is pictured below.

WAB Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink and Antique Stickpin Galleries include an elegant Art Deco dress set by Carter, Gough and a golden menagerie of winged lions, basilisks and flying serpents all perched atop late Victorian stickpins.

Art Deco Elegance  The Art Deco era was a time of striking, elegant design.  This dress set with pearl and mother-of-pearl centers and stylized bell-flower borders beautifully captures the spirit of the age.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Winged Lion and Pearl  The Victorians populated their stickpins with a teeming menagerie of flying lions, griffins, winged serpents and fiery dragons.  This charming example features a winged lion emerging from elegant foliate scrolls.  crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Basilisk and Pearl  A regal basilisk presents a luminous white pearl.  A basilisk has the head and wings of an eagle and the body of a serpent - one of the fantastic creatures favored during the Victorian era.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Winged Serpent  A winged serpent warily grasping a small pearl.  This little fellow has a lot of charm. The perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons from your lapel.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Dragon and Diamond  A fierce dragon protectively cradles a small sparkling diamond.  The Victorians loved to enliven their jewels with a teeming menagerie of dragons, griffins, basilisks and other fantastic beasts.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpins from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Antique Stickpin Gallery

Tiffany Cameo Portrait Cuff Buttons

With the summer temperatures moderating and the usual mid-summer lull in the gallery, I am taking a brief break.  So, while I am off hiking in the mountains I will leave you with photos of one of the more interesting pairs of cuff buttons I have had the opportunity to work with this year.

This wonderful pair of Victorian cuff buttons features beautifully carved hardstone (sardonyx) cameos. The cuff buttons were custom created for a gentleman in the decades around 1870. The portrait cameos likely represent the wearer's daughters or wife and daughter. Although, several clients have suggested more risque interpretations.

The cuff buttons were created by Tiffany & Company. They rest in their original fitted case with a regal reddish-purple silk and velvet interior. The silk lining beneath the lid is signed "Tiffany & Co./New York" in gold letters. For me these beautiful cuff buttons embody the three elements that define all fine antique cufflinks - beauty, history and craftsmanship.

I hope everybody is enjoying a wonderful summer! I will be back next month to write about some mesmerizing cufflinks from Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery to view these
and many other fine cufflinks for the past