Recent Additions - Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include roaring lions from Krementz & Co., regal blue lapis set in gold by George Street and elegantly engraved platinum top octagons set with sapphires and diamonds.

Roaring Lions  A regal lion rises amid windblown grasses and announces his authority with a deafening roar.  The lion is beautifully sculpted with a flowing golden mane and fierce eyes.    Cost  Sold

Regal Blue  Regal blue Lapis lazuli wedded with the warmth of antique gold.  The rich blue of the Lapis is accented with small pieces of pyrite that shimmer like golden stars in the night sky.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.   Sold

Sapphires and Diamonds  Beautifully engraved platinum and gold cufflinks set with French-cut blue sapphires and sparkling white diamonds.  An elegant accent for any cuff.  Crafted in 14kt gold and platinum,  circa 1925.    Cost:  Sold

In the Antique Stickpin Gallery recent additions include a wonderful, diminutive La Pensée stickpin by Carter, Howe and a French dragon who has already flown his lair.

La Pensée  A beautifully sculpted Art Nouveau stickpin of a woman with wild, cascading hair framed by the petals of a pansy.    Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.    Cost:  $425

Dragon Rising  A fierce dragon rises aloft clutching a diamond in its mouth.  The Medieval presence atop this elegant stickpin is beautifully sculpted in 18kt gold.  Created in France,  circa 1890.    Cost:  Sold

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

The Exuberant Cufflinks of L. Fritzsche

With the holidays just around the corner visions of glittering Christmas tree ornaments, shimmering silver tinsel and lacy frost growing on cold windows come to mind. In this spirit this note celebrates the glittering cufflinks of one of the lesser known cufflink makers of the early 20th century.

L. Fritzsche "exuberantly geometric" cufflinks, circa 1925.

L. Fritzsche & Co. created gold jewelry in the early decades of the 20th century. Based in Newark, New Jersey, the firm was founded by Lebrecht Fritzsche sometime before 1910 and is last mentioned in the trade press in the early 1940s. Beyond that we know little more about Lebrecht Fritzsche and the company he founded ... except for the wonderful cufflinks his firm created during the 1920s and 1930s.

Fritzsche cufflinks have an exuberant, inventive sense of geometry. They glitter with playful, myriad motifs arranged in beautifully balanced designs (see above). The cufflinks succeed in being richly detailed without appearing cluttered - they are captivating without being overwhelming. In short, Fritzsche cufflinks exemplify the early Art Deco ideals of rich ornamentation and balanced, orderly design.

L. Fritzsche marquise and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

The production of the Fritzsche firm was limited compared to the more prolific cufflink makers of the period - Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, Carrington & Co. and Charles Keller. But, like other lesser known "small batch" makers (William Huger Co. and Hans Brassler, from a decade earlier, come to mind), what L. Fritzsche & Company lacked in numbers the firm more than made up for in artistry and design.

Fritzsche cufflinks have a unique look, an inescapable beauty that with a little practice is immediately recognized.  In a way the scarcity of Fritzsche cufflinks adds to their desirability and charm.

L. Fritzsche "Racing Comet" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Fritzsche, like other Art Deco cufflink makers, drew inspiration from a number of sources. Fritzsche designs ranged from the abstract and purely geometric to nature-inspired themes rendered in a distinctly Art Deco manner.

The Art Deco era was enthralled with speed.  Fast cars, record breaking airplane flights and luxurious ocean liners all reflected a passion for acceleration, travel and adventurously challenging the limits.  Comets racing in from the far reaches of the universe came to symbolize the frenetic wanderlust of the period.   In the above Fritzsche cufflink dazzling diamond-set comets dart across the night sky as stars blur in the background.  The comets are rendered in a stylized form that anticipates the Op Art of later decades.

L. Fritzsche foliate and floral cufflinks, circa 1925.

This final pair of Fritzsche cufflinks is an Art Deco interpretation of earlier Edwardian designs.  During the Edwardian period (circa 1900 to 1915) jewels often featured beautifully engraved, airy confections of flowers and foliage surrounded by intricate scroll and floral borders.

The above Fritzsche cufflink reimagines the earlier Edwardian designs adding a distinctly Art Deco flavor.  The floral/foliate design in the center is now stylized and bold, not flowing and lacy, while the delicate borders have been replaced with a primitive geometric pattern that reflects the Art Deco interest in tribal arts and distant cultures.  The wonderful thing about antique cufflinks is that the designs from both periods - Edwardian and Art Deco - are equally captivating.

I hope everyone enjoys the best of the holidays and that this brief note
on the glittering cufflinks of L. Fritzsche & Company has added
to the spirit and joy of the season.

The above and other fine cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include racing comets and exploding fireworks from the Art Deco era, roaring lions and leopards by Carter, Howe and yachting burgees flying in the breeze.

Burgees Aloft   Nautical cufflinks flying the burgee of the New York Yacht Club.   These elegant cufflinks were created by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold circa 1900.   Cost:  Sold

Lions and Leopards  A menacing lion glowers from within his regal, flowing mane while on the other cuff a leopard snarls with equal ferocity.  Created by Carter, Howe & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.  Cost:  $785

Racing Comets  Art Deco comets streak across the night sky.  These lively cufflinks sparkle with diamonds and the exuberance of the Jazz Age.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.   Cost:  $725

Fireworks and Diamonds  A burst of Art Deco brilliance and sparkling diamonds.  The beautifully engraved white gold tops of these cufflinks radiate outward like exploding fireworks.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.  Cost:  $1,125

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Naturally Art Deco ... Cufflinks

Nature inspired Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1920.

The words "Art Deco" inspire thoughts of bold geometric designs and rich contrasting colors celebrating Machine Age chic and a prevailing enthusiasm for streamlined speed. But these iconic themes of the 1920s and 1930s do not exhaust the vocabulary of Art Deco design. Art Deco jewelers, like jewelers during the earlier Victorian period, turned to an eclectic mix of design sources and decorative motifs when seeking inspiration.

In the early 1920s, Art Deco blossomed with a garden of stylized plant motifs which offer a natural counterpoint to the starker designs of late Art Deco. The diamond-set cufflink pictured above features aquatic plants floating against a watery, rippling backdrop. In the corners golden lotus blossoms are silhouetted against "pools" of blue enamel. Created by Charles Keller & Company around 1920, this cufflink is a wonderful example of the nature-inspired jewels of the early Art Deco era.

Breezy pond cufflink, circa 1920.

During the 1920s, an unknown maker* created a small body of cufflinks nicknamed "the breezy pond series". The cufflinks feature Art Deco borders of stylized water plants - water lilies, waving grasses and anthemia (palmettes) - surrounding beautifully engine-turned "pond" centers. The finely engraved centers sparkle with a wavy pattern that brings to mind the rippling surface of a pond in a brisk breeze. Hence the nickname. Several examples of these cufflinks are illustrated above and below.

Breezy pond cufflink, circa 1920.

As the decade of the 1920s passed, the interest in stylized plant motifs was superseded by the bolder forms and geometric designs which eventually morphed into the starkness of mid-Century Modernism. But, for a brief period the in the early 1920s the Art Deco garden blossomed.

* The unknown maker of the last two cufflinks is identified by the maker's mark, a "T" superimposed above an "H". In an earlier post I discussed the possibility that this mystery maker was in some way affiliated with the jewelry firm of Irving Heidelscheimer. Another example of this maker's work is illustrated below.

Art Deco cufflink by TH maker, circa 1925.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions - Brooches, Cufflinks and Stickpins

Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries include a British terrier brooch, jazzy Art Deco cufflinks and a striking "Art Primitive" stickpin

Art Deco Terrier  A wonderful Art Deco brooch of a small terrier set against an elegantly simple white gold back bar. Created by Alabaster & Wilson in 15kt and 9kt gold, circa 1925.

Deco Jazz   Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with jazzy pinstripes and intricate scrolling borders. The perfect blend of the formal elegance and exuberant celebration that epitomized the Jazz Age. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Tribal Art  A bright, bold shield motif accented with stylized spear points frames a mysterious, dark blue sapphire. Art Deco jewelers often found inspiration in what were mislabeled the "primitive" arts of Africa, Oceania and the Americas. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1930.

These and other fine jewels can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Egyptian Revival Cufflinks and Jewels

Egyptian Revival cufflink, circa 1890.

For centuries artists and architects, mystics and jewelers have been inspired by the arts and artifacts of ancient Egypt. Cufflink and jewelry makers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were no exception. The jewels they created often reflected the popular fascination with the mysteries and ruins of the venerable kingdom of the Pharaohs. Here is a sampling of Egyptian Revival cufflinks and jewels from the Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods.

In the Victorian era interest in the Egyptian past was sparked by archeological expeditions which highlighted ancient civilizations and the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. The cufflink illustrated above is a striking, beautifully sculpted example of the prevailing Egypto-mania. Created by Sloan & Co. around 1890, the winged scarab appears ready to leap into flight with dramatic, upward sweeping wings and tightly sprung legs. A rich, antique finish gives the gold an aura of ancient splendors and the mysterious past. For the ancient Egyptians - and perhaps the late Victorians, as well - the scarab was a symbol of life and resurrection imbued with amuletic powers.

Krementz Art Nouveau cufflink, circa 1900.

In the 1890s Art Nouveau jewelers wedded a strong personal vision with a sense of mysticism and fantasy to create jewels of unbridled imagination. They turned away from the revival styles of earlier decades in an effort to create something new. And, yet, the fascination with the Egyptian past persisted.

Krementz & Company was one of the early proponents of Art Nouveau design in North America. The above Krementz cufflink brings together the exoticism and sinuous curves of the new fashion with an elaborate headdress and ostrich feather plumes suggestive of the splendor of the Pharaohs.

During this period Sarah Bernhardt captured the public imagination with dramatic roles as Cleopatra and other heroines and heroes of myth and history. Costumed in the jewels of Rene Lalique and celebrated in the posters of Alphonse Mucha, the French actress was both a patron and muse to the Art Nouveau. Perhaps the exotic design of these cufflinks was inspired in part by the actress lauded as "The Divine Sarah".

WAB Egyptian Revival cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

As the figural designs of the late Victorian and Art Nouveau periods evolved into the abstract, geometric designs of the Art Deco era, the discovery of King Tut's tomb sparked a renewed interest in the Egyptian past. The stylized motifs and geometric designs of the ancient Egyptians spoke to Art Deco jewelers, designers and architects.

The above cufflink created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss (WAB) illustrates the Art Deco take on Egyptian Revival. Stylized papyrus fronds and lotus blossoms in an abstract cruciform design are surrounded by jazzy, zigzag borders along the beveled edges of the cufflinks. WAB was a leading cufflink maker of the Art Deco era and excelled at creating jewels that captured the spirit and elegance of the age - both the ancient and the modern.

The fascination with the Egyptian past was expressed in many forms of jewelry and decorative objects. Here we illustrate a Victorian pin with a winged scarab flanked by two green-eyed peacocks and a stickpin created by Hans Brassler of a stylized scarab set with a richly colored bloodstone.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

For stickpins and brooches visit the Antique Stickpin Gallery
and Antique Brooch Gallery.

Recent Additions - Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflinks Gallery include elegant British cufflinks set with blue and white enamels in rose gold and a striking pair of Art Deco cufflinks by the "TH" mystery maker.

Blue and White  Elegant British cufflinks enlivened with blue and white enamels set in radiating frames of rose gold.  The warm tone of the rose gold beautifully complements the rich, vibrant colors of the enamels.  Crafted in 9kt rose gold, circa 1950.

Art Deco Elegance  Stylized water lilies and waving grasses surround centers engraved with a pattern evocative of ripples on a wind blown pond.  A nice example of the wonderfully detailed, beautifully designed cufflinks of the Art Deco era.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

These and other fine cufflinks can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss diamond-set cufflinks and Carrington cufflinks with flowing "B" monograms. Other additions include a regal lion stickpin with ruby eyes and a diamond, a stickpin with a fierce dragon guarding a bright sapphire and a wonderful Hans Brassler amethyst and pearl brooch.

Diamonds and Garlands  Jazz Age cufflinks sparkling with the celebratory, festive mood of the 1920s.  This elegant pair features sparkling diamonds, golden garlands and bright white gold Art Deco borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Carrington "B"  Elegant gold cufflinks with "B" monograms in flowing script.  During the decades around 1900 distinctive monograms were often engraved to personalize cufflinks.  Created by Carrington & Co. in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Regal Lion  A regal lion grasps a shimmering diamond in his mouth and stares menacingly with fiery, dark red eyes (likely garnets or rubies).  The lion is beautifully sculpted with finely detailed whiskers and a flowing mane.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Griffin and Sapphire  A beautifully sculpted winged lion-serpent fiercely guards a bright blue sapphire.  The tail of the fantastic creature flows beneath the sapphire with elegant scrolls and acanthus leaves.  Beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Brassler Amethyst and Pearls  A beautiful brooch with a rich purple amethyst and pearls.  A wonderful example of Hans Brassler's imaginative, unique work.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

The above fine cufflinks, stickpins and brooch, can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Jazz in White and Gold

Jazzy two-tone cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1920, David Belais of Belais Bros., a jewelry manufacturer based in New York, received a patent for a gold alloy that was a frosty white. He hoped that the new white metal would be a remedy to the high cost and scarcity of platinum caused in part by shortages during the first World War.

Although Belais did not invent white gold (Tiffany & Company had used white gold in a limited way as early as the 1880s), the firm's successful introduction and promotion of the new precious metal led to a blizzard of frosty jewels during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the best of these were jazzy Art Deco cufflinks wedding white and yellow gold.

Elegant pinstripe cufflinks, circa 1930.

The white and yellow gold cufflinks ran the gamut of Art Deco design from the intricate, busy "complications" of the early 1920s to the simpler, geometric designs of the late 1920s and 1930s. This elegant pair of pinstripe cufflinks illustrates the stark, linear designs of the later Art Deco period. The white gold bands are polished to a mirror-like finish which contrasts nicely with the warmer tones of the yellow gold pinstripes and borders. Created my Richardson Manufacturing Company in 14kt gold around 1930.

Ziething two-tone complications, circa 1925.

Earlier in the Art Deco era busier designs, sometimes referred to as "complications," were in favor. Frequent readers are aware of the attraction these intricately, almost obsessively embellished cuff jewels hold for me. The level of detail and number of design elements Jazz Age cufflink makers were able to harmoniously place in the small space afforded by the top of a cufflink is astounding. This lively two-tone pair created by Ziething & Company is a wonderful example.

Krementz white and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Art Deco jewels often featured stark, vibrant colors arrayed in patterns of striking contrast. The white and gold cufflinks somewhat softened this trend. They offered engaging contrasts, but in a subtler way.

The emphasis was not on bold, arresting colors, but on the play between the cool brilliance of the white gold and radiant, warm tones of the yellow. The above pair of cufflinks by Krementz & Company nicely illustrates the manner in which light dances across the varied textures of the white and yellow gold surfaces.

Strobell & Crane Art Moderne cufflinks, circa 1930.

In the latter part of the Art Deco period starkly dramatic designs reflected the prevailing fascination with speed, industrial design and the forward march of technology. A precursor to mid-century Modernism, the style was referred to as Art Moderne.

This dramatic pair of cufflinks created by Strobell & Crane features yellow gold centers crossed by stark bands of white gold, all surrounded by white gold borders engraved in classic Art Deco fashion with a zig-zagging geometric pattern. An elegant expression of the Machine Age chic of the 1930s.

Frank Krementz two-tone cufflinks, circa 1925.

Finally, one last pair of Art Deco complications. In this pair mirrored rising sun motifs are surrounded by radiating bands of yellow gold and bisected by a strip of black enamel. A border of repeated sunrise or floral motifs in white gold completes the striking design.

Frank Krementz and Ziething & Company were among the makers creating these intricate, richly detailed cuff jewels. For more about the makers of these intricate masterpieces, please visit my earlier post Art Deco - Cufflink Complications.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Galleries include a beautiful pair of blue enamel and garland cufflinks by Larter & Sons, bold Art Deco pinstripe links, elegant George O. Street tiger eye cufflinks, and a pair of English cipher cufflinks. Other recent additions include an Egyptian Revival stickpin by Alling & Company and a wonderful "Serpent de Mer" stickpin by French jewelers Plisson et Hartz.

Garlands and Blues   Classically inspired wreathes of festive garlands surrounding centers reminiscent of exploding fireworks.  The elegant design is beautifully set off by rich blue enamel borders.  Crafted in 14kt gold by Larter & Sons,  circa 1925.

Art Deco Pinstripes  Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with golden pinstripes alternating with brightly polished bands of white gold.  A nice example of the geometric pinstripe designs of the later Art Deco period.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Tiger Eye  Elegant cufflinks with beautiful tiger eyes set in finely crafted yellow gold.  The domed tiger eyes feature rich brown edges shading to glowing, honey yellow "eyes."  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1940.

English Ciphers  The Victorians loved richly detailed ciphers of entwined letters and contrasting fonts.  These British cufflinks feature a flowing, organic "L" interlaced with a Gothic, wooden "E".  Crafted in 9kt gold, circa 1928.

Alling Egyptian Revival  The flowing, geometric design of this stickpin is a wonderful example of the inspiration jewelers in the the early 1900s found in the arts and architecture of ancient Egypt.  Created by Alling & Company in 14kt gold,  circa 1900.

Serpent de Mer  A writhing sea serpent clutches a luminous pearl.  In the late 1800s French jewelers created a menagerie of fantastic and mythological creatures.  This boldly sculpted sea serpent with life-like fins and a tail that appears to be floating in water is a wonderful example.  Crafted in 18kt gold,  circa 1900.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpins, can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery and the Antique Stickpin Gallery

The Great Cufflink Caper and the Mystery Maker

Cufflink by the Maltese Cross Maker, circa 1900.

The Great Cufflink Caper

In an earlier post (April 30. 2011) I discussed an unattributed group of cufflinks created in the flowing Art Nouveau style of the early 1900s.  The cufflinks were created by an unidentified maker which I provisionally named the "Maltese Cross Maker." The name reflected the unusual signature mark of the maker - a Maltese cross in a circular recess stamped on the reverse of the cufflinks.

Several readers suggested that this mark resembled the maker's mark of H. A. Kirby, a jewelry manufacturer based in Providence, Rhode Island.  The suggestion was a good one, H. A. Kirby was likely the mystery maker.  Since then I have been on the look out for documentary evidence - period catalogs, advertisements in trade journals, news articles - that would confirm H. A. Kirby as a maker of fine cufflinks.

On a recent Spring evening I came across the following article in the August 30, 1899 edition of The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review, a trade journal serving the retail and wholesale jewelry industry.  I like to think of the events described as "The Great Cufflink Caper." One of the interesting aspects of the article is that the average value of the stolen cufflinks was $20.00 to $25.00. These were truly expensive cufflinks for the period.

H.A. Kirby Diamond-set Cufflink, circa 1900.

H.A. KIRBY CO. SYSTEMATICALLY ROBBED
BY AN OCCASIONAL EMPLOYEE

The robbery of a large number of diamond cuff buttons, which occurred about July 27, became generally known Monday through a sensational article in a New York newspaper. The story was based on the arrest of Harry Pye, who gave his address as 94 King St., New York, and whose incarceration and indictment have been kept secret up to this time. Pye was arrested by Central Office Detectives Boyle and Carpenters, who are detailed to cover the pawn shops of the city, while in the act of pawning a number of cuff buttons. He was taken into custody, and besides a number of buttons, 25 pawn tickets, all calling for similar articles, were found upon his person. Pye, the detectives learned, was a brother of Willie Pye, a young man employed occasionally in the New York office of the H. A. Kirby Co., 9-13 Maiden Lane. Willie Pye's business was to help the firm's New York representative, Archibald Rutherford, to get ready his samples and to carry the cases.


On July 27 about 100 pairs of cuff buttons were supposed to have been put into one of Mr. Rutherford's cases, but upon his arrival in Boston he found that they were not there. Inquiry at the New York office disclosed the fact that they had been taken from the stock, and the case was put into the hands of the detectives the same day that Harry Pye was arrested. While it is believed beyond a doubt that the articles were stolen by Willie Pye and turned over to his brother to pawn, the arrested man would, however, give no information as to his accomplice or accomplices. At the office of the H. A. Kirby Co. Monday, it was stated that Willie Pye had not, up to that time, been arrested. The value of the goods, it is stated is between $2,000 and $2,500.

Exuberant Sunflower Cufflinks by H.A. Kirby, circa 1900.

In a follow-up note the eponymous founder of H.A. Kirby Co. was reticent about discussing the theft.

H. A. KIRBY REFUSES TO TALK ON THE MATTER

Providence, R.I.  Aug. 28 - H.A. Kirby, of the H.A. Kirby Co., was seen in reference to the report in the New York Herald, but would not talk on the subject.

Kirby Clover Leaf Stickpin, circa 1900.

These and other fine cufflinks from the past can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

Recent additions to the Antique Jewelry Galleries include intriguing bloodstone cufflinks from Sansbury and Nellis and a winged-scarab stickpin by Hans Brassler, Jazz Age lapis lazuli and gold cufflinks, Art Nouveau foliate scroll cufflinks, and elegant sapphire and diamond cufflinks with intricately engraved platinum tops.

Heliotrope  Heliotrope is a beautiful gemstone with the mesmerizing appearance of fiery embers smoldering in a dark ashes.  These elegant cufflinks were created by Sansbury & Nellis during the Art Deco era.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

Scarab and Bloodstone  A wonderful interpretation of a winged scarab by Hans Brassler.  In this imaginative jewel, the jeweler combined elements of Art Nouveau, Gothic Revival and Arts & Crafts design while evoking the mysteries of ancient Egypt.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.

Lapis and Gold   The rich blue of lapis lazuli accented with small bits of fools gold beautifully captures the elegant, raucous spirit of the Jazz Age.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Feathery Scrolls  Art Nouveau flowing, feathery scrolls.  The flowing design of these cufflinks may have been inspired by crashing waves along a rocky shore or ferns unfurling in the early Spring.  Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphire and Diamonds   Beautifully engraved cufflinks set with rich blue sapphires and sparkling white diamonds.  The hexagonal borders feature intricate geometric designs in the Art Deco fashion.  Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold,  circa 1920.

The above fine cufflinks and stickpin, can be found in
the Antique Cufflinks Gallery and the Antique Stickpin Gallery