Antique Cufflinks
Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include classically elegant Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, Carrington onyx and platinum octagons, beautifully engraved Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, and white and yellow gold garland-style cufflinks from the 1920s.
Classical Elegance Foliate wreath borders, pinstripe centers, sparkling diamonds and rich blue sapphires. An elegant example of the inescapable beauty and timelessness of antique cufflinks. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.
Onyx and Platinum Striking Carrington cufflinks featuring eight-sided black onyx centers surrounded by brightly polished and engraved platinum borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925. |
Sapphires and Diamonds Elegant platinum and gold cufflinks set with blue sapphires and sparkling diamonds. The platinum centers are surrounded by dramatic yellow gold borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.
Engraved Elegance II Elegant two-tone cufflinks with intricately engraved yellow gold centers surrounded by dramatic white gold borders with alternating scrolls and flower heads. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.
These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
Antique and Estate Jewelry
Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include a striking Art Deco Citrine brooch and stickpins featuring noble horses and fiery dragons.
Art Deco Brooch A dramatic Art Deco brooch set with a beautiful honey-colored Citrine. The gold sides of the brooch rise up pyramid-like to support the gemstone. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.
Equestrian Beautifully designed stickpin of an energetic, alert horse. A small red stone (likely a garnet) is set in the eye. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925. |
Dragon and Sceptre The Victorians celebrated an exotic menagerie of mythical and whimsical creatures atop their stickpins. This pin features a fierce dragon protecting a golden sceptre while warily watching with a dark green eye. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900. |
These and other fine estate jewels can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.
 Krementz double cufflinks with roaring lions, circa 1900.Krementz Doubles
An updated version of this article can be found in the 1/31/14 post.
What the Bachs were to music and the Bernoullis to mathematics, the Krementz family has been to jewelry manufacturing in the United States. When George Krementz founded Krementz & Company in 1866 he began a jewelry dynasty that has touched three centuries. The original firm, its successors and offshoots have been an innovative force in everything from fine to costume jewelry, colored gemstones to rich enamels, cufflinks to stickpins.  Roaring lion cufflinks, circa 1900.Among the more captivating creations from the firm's long history is a series of "double" cufflinks dating to the years around 1900. Cufflinks with a decorated front, a curved bridge and a small oval back, also known as a "bean back", were common during the late Victorian period and early 1900s. The backs were often left plan or merely engraved with the owner's initials. Krementz added a little pizazz to the bean backs.  Reverse of roaring lion cufflinks.Around 1900, Krementz began recreating the striking image decorating the fronts of the cufflinks on the smaller bean backs. The fierce lion cufflinks pictured above are a wonderful example. From the front a roaring lion stares menacingly. His snarling visage and fierce eyes are framed with a flowing, golden mane. On the back an equally dramatic lion roars, this time in profile. The images of the lions are beautifully sculpted and richly detailed.  Mermaid and Swan cufflinks, circa 1900.Krementz & Company was one of the first jewelry firms to bring Art Nouveau design to America. Among the firm's work in the emerging style were beautiful flower and foliage brooches colored with shimmering pastel enamels. An example is pictured at the end of this post. Krementz also created cufflinks in the Art Nouveau taste. The above pair features a mermaid with flowing hair, a passing swan and swaying cattails. The mermaid's sceptre is set with a small rose-cut diamond for a magical touch of sparkle. The cufflinks reflect the Art Nouveau fascination with nature and fantasy.  Reverse of mermaid cufflinks.On the backs of the cufflinks the mermaid-and-swan scene is faithfully recreated in miniature. The only exception is that the sceptre is now diamond free.  Art Nouveau priestess cufflinks, circa 1900.In addition to nature and fantasy, Art Nouveau jewelry designers drew upon ancient and distant cultures to capture a sense of the exotic. This pair of cufflinks features a princess or priestess adorned with an elaborate headdress. The design, possibly inspired by the ancient Egyptian or Mayan civilizations, was largely shaped by the artist's imagination. Classic flowing Art Nouveau curves are evident in the "ribbons" beneath the woman's chin.  Front and reverse of Art Nouveau cufflinks.Once again, the striking image of the exotic princess is repeated on the reverse of the cufflinks.  Victorian serpent cufflinks, circa 1890.A little earlier than the prior two Art Nouveau pairs, this pair of Krementz cufflinks nicely illustrates the late Victorian love affair with writhing serpents and critter-related jewelry. In this case rattlesnakes are the critters of choice. For the Victorians jewelry often carried symbolic meanings. Intertwined or coiled snakes were a symbol of good fortune and eternity. The vine entwining the snakes appears to be a clematis vine, a Victorian symbol for ingenuity.  Front and reverse of serpent and vine cufflinks, circa 1890.Hints of Art Nouveau design can be seen in the sinuous curves of the snakes and vines. The manner in which the scaly, reptilian bodies of the snakes form the borders of the cufflinks also suggest an Art Nouveau influence. Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery. ********  Krementz Art Nouveau brooch, circa 1900.I mentioned earlier that one of the contributions of Krementz & Company to American Art Nouveau design were small flower-inspired brooches colored with shimmering enamels. The above jewel is a wonderful example set pearls, an amethyst and a small sparkling dianond. The Krementz Art Nouveau brooch can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.
The past month has been busy. I have been working with several cufflink collectors off-line and adding a collection of brooches to the Estate Jewelry Gallery. Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Nouveau sunflowers crafted by the unidentified "Maltese Cross" maker and an equally dramatic pair of black-and-white cufflinks from the 1930s.
Sunflowers Exuberant sunflowers and a tangle of whiplash vines grace these Art Nouveau cufflinks. The dramatic sunflowers and vines are beautifully sculpted in 14kt gold, circa 1900. |
Black and White Dramatic Art Deco cufflinks with striking black enamel borders and linearly engraved white gold centers. Created by Enos Richardson & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1930. | The fine cufflink makers often featured in these pages created a variety elegant jewels. Below is a trilogy of brooches created by Krementz & Co., Whiteside & Blank and Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in the years around 1900. The same care these jewelers brought to the design and crafting of cufflinks is also seen in these beautiful brooches. 
Amethyst and Pearls A striking Art Nouveau brooch with pastel enamel leaves, pearl clusters and a small diamond surrounding a regal amethyst. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900. |
Art Nouveau A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of intertwined ginkgo leaves surrounding a lavender pastel Amethyst. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900. |
Clover and Pearls A beautifully enameled Victorian lucky clover brooch. The edges of the petals and stem are gold and set with small graduated pearls. Created by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in 14kt gold, circa 1900.
Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks and jewels, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and Estate Jewelry Gallery.
Garden of the Maltese Cross Maker  Art Nouveau sunflower cufflinks by the "Maltese Cross" maker, circa 1900.Spring has arrived in fits and starts this year. But, after several days of warm sunshine, the garden is abloom with hyacinth and blue bells, tulips and daffodils. All of which puts me in mind of one of the more florally focused cufflink makers of the early 1900s. In the years around 1900, an unknown jewelry maker (nicknamed the "Maltese Cross maker") created an elegant collection of cufflinks abloom with flowers and foliage. These nature-inspired cufflinks reflected the sinuous curves and tangled forms of Art Nouveau design. The sunflower cufflinks pictured above are a wonderful example of the maker's work. The striking sunflowers and flowing vines (possibly acanthus) seem to spontaneously spring from the richly sculpted gold.  Whiplash vine cufflinks, circa 1900.Whiplash curves were a signature of Art Nouveau design. The dramatically flowing acanthus leaves and vines which entangle the tops of these cufflinks are an elegant example. Among the Victorians acanthus was a symbol of the Arts. Jewels featuring acanthus leaves were often given to someone with artistic talent or aspirations. During the Art Nouveau period acanthus leaves and vines were also appreciated for their exotic, sinuous shapes.  Laurel sprig cufflinks by the "Maltese Cross" maker, circa 1890.A little less effusive, a little more restrained than the prior cufflinks, this pair features laurel sprigs with berries - an ancient symbol of victory and status. The more restrained design suggests these cufflinks date from the late Victorian period, perhaps around 1890. Based on the style and design of the cufflinks, I believe the "Maltese Cross" maker was active from about 1890 to 1910.  Reverse of "Maltese Cross" maker cufflinks.The cufflinks are beautifully crafted in 14kt gold with curved "Y" bridges attaching the tops to traditional bean backs. A small gold ball is set at the split of the "Y". This bridge and back design was also favored by Alling & Company during the same period, although there is currently no further basis for assuming a relationship between the two firms.  "Maltese Cross" maker's mark.In addition to dramatic floral and foliate designs, the cufflinks are distinguished by a maker's mark - a stylized Teutonic or Maltese cross within a circular border. The maker's mark is found on the inside of the bean backs along with a "14K" gold purity mark. The above photo of the maker's mark is from the stickpin pictured below. Photographing the inside of the bean backs proved too difficult.  Enamel four-leaf clover stickpin.The Maltese cross maker's jewels were not limited to cufflinks. This verdant stickpin is a lucky talisman featuring beautiful enamel work, richly detailed petals and a small pearl. Crafted in 14kt gold around 1900, the stickpin illustrates the "Maltese Cross" maker's commitment to fine design and uncompromising craftsmanship. Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include roaring lions by Krementz, dragons set with diamonds, striking white and black "garland and swag" links by WAB, and a sunny pair of yellow and white gold cufflinks.
Roaring Lions A fierce lion glares out from behind a golden mane. The lion is richly detailed with a full mane, whiskers and fierce eyes. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900. |
Dragons and Diamonds The Victorians were mesmerized by a menagerie of fantastic creatures. This dramatic pair of cufflinks features a dragon or possibly a sea serpent fiercely guarding a small diamond. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900. |
White Garlands Dramatic black and white cufflinks from the Jazz Age. The cufflinks feature garland and swag centers surrounded by geometric box-and-cross borders elegantly accented with black enamel. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925. |
Yellow and White Yellow and white gold cufflinks that have a warm glow like Spring sunshine. The richly engraved gold surfaces create a warm, shimmering appearance. Crafted by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1925.
| We also recently added an elegant eagle stickpin
in the Antique Jewelry Gallery.
| Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
 Carrington abalone and pearl cufflinks, circa 1935.Other projects in the gallery have necessitated a brief leave from writing about antique cufflinks. But ongoing research continues. I hope to post next month about the beautiful "doubles" created by Krementz & Co. in the years around 1900. Meanwhile, pictured above is a beautiful abalone and pearl cufflink created by Carrington & Company. A wonderful example of the clean, elegant design favored during the late 1930s. The abalone, a dark aubergine with flashes of red and green, contrasts beautifully with the brilliance of the platinum borders and the white pearls. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1935. These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair by Carrington featuring abalone, pearls and platinum, elegant Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, Charles Keller blue enamel and gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style, two pairs of dramatically engine-turned "Big Bang" cufflinks, and an Onyx and Diamond dress set by Carter, Gough.
| | Carrington Abalone and Pearl Elegant abalone and pearl cufflinks in the Art Moderne style of the late 1930s. The abalone is a dark aubergine hue with flashes of red and green. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1935.
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| | Sapphires and Diamonds Elegantly engraved platinum cufflinks set with blue sapphires. and sparkling diamonds. Surrounded by dramatic borders of winged volutes and stylized blossoms. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.
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| | Keller Arts & Crafts Gold and blue enamel cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style. The brightly polished yellow gold centers are surrounded by a captivating border of blue enamel. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1910.
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| Big Bang The brilliance of beautifully engraved platinum and sparkling diamonds. These cufflinks radiate outward like exploding fireworks in the night sky. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.
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| | Diamond and Onyx An elegant diamond and onyx dress set from the 1920s. The white gold borders surrounding the black onyx are engraved with a dramatic Art Deco zigzag pattern. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1925.
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| | Big Bang II White gold cufflinks beautifully engraved with a radiating pattern that explodes like a silvery firework in the night sky. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.
| We also recently added an elegant Egyptian Revival stickpin
to the Antique Jewelry Gallery. 
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Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
 Charles Keller gold and blue enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.Keller Blues Charles Keller & Company was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks during the early 20th century. Although not as recognized as Carrington & Company or Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, Keller created beautiful cufflinks in a variety of distinctive styles. Among the firm's specialties were cufflinks that elegantly accented rich yellow gold with regal blue enamel. The cufflink pictured above is a wonderful example. Set with small diamonds and featuring beautifully engraved centers, the corner's of the cufflink are finished with stylized floral motifs highlighted in vibrant blue enamel.  Charles Keller enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.The intricately engraved centers are a miniature scene of a rippling body of water with upward striving plants in the foreground. The theme of aquatic flora is repeated in the blue enamel and gold motifs of the corners. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Charles Keller 10kt gold cufflinks, circa 1925.Keller created cufflinks in both 10kt and 14kt gold. The above 10kt gold cufflink features a dramatic star burst or stylized flower head motif. Around the edges an inward-turning stipple pattern is outlined in blue enamel. The lower karatage gives the gold a pale, almost washed out appearance that nicely contrasts with the bolder color of the enamel. Keller cufflinks often included rich design elements like stylized flower heads and the beautiful plant-and-water scene pictured above. But not always ...  Charles Keller Arts & Crafta cufflinks, circa 1910.This pair of Keller cufflinks is from the Arts & Crafts period of the early 1900s. The yellow gold centers are polished to a mirror-like finish and surrounded by captivating blue enamel borders. A wonderful example of the simple elegance of Arts & Crafts design.  Close-up of maker's mark.The maker's mark of Charles Keller & Company is an elongated "C" followed by a "K". Inside the "C" a "10" or "14" indicates the purity of the gold. The maker's mark is usually found stamped on the crossbars (as pictured above) or the reverse of the cufflinks. Charles Keller & Company was founded in 1885. The firm created gold and platinum cufflinks, lockets and other jewels in a workshop based in Newark, New Jersey. From surviving examples, it is clear the firm created cufflinks in a great variety of styles. Charles Keller & Company remained in business until the early 1930s.  Charles Keller sodalite and gold cufflinks, circa 1925.In addition to beautiful blue enamels, Charles Keller & Company also created cufflinks set with striking blue gemstones. This blue and gold pair features the exotic gemstone sodalite. The gemstone is reminiscent of a dark night sky with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight. Along with Lapis lazuli, sodalite was favored by Art Deco jewelry designers because of its intense, rich blue color. Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.
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WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.
WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.
WAB sapphire and gold cufflinks, circa 1925.
WAB black and white ufflinks, circa 1925.
Strobell & Crane garland style cufflinks, circa 1920.
WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.
