Recent Discovery in the Antique Cufflink Archive

While researching a unrelated topic in the Antique Cufflink Archive, I came across several additional examples of cufflinks created by the Fleur-de-lys Maker.

The cufflinks are elegant elongated octagons, essentially rectangles with deeply cut corners. While the shape doesn't have the same jagged edginess as the examples illustrated in last week's post, the cufflinks exhibit the same care in craftsmanship, design and fine detail.

Hopefully more examples of the Fleur-de-lys Maker's work will emerge in the coming weeks.

These and a great variety of other cufflinks from the past
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Archive

The Joy of Antique Cufflinks

The Joy of Antique Cufflinks

Carrington engraved MOP dress set, circa 1925.

I hope everyone has enjoyed the best of the Holidays and
is looking forward to an even better New Year!

In earlier notes I have written about the artistry, craftsmanship and history of antique cufflinks. One other factor contributes to the inescapable joy created by cufflinks from the past - the great variety of designs and styles in which they were created.

The years from 1880 to 1950 were a period of ceaseless and dramatic change in jewelry design and the decorative arts in general. Infuences included the historical revivals and countering Aesthetic Movement of the Victorian era, the flowing, otherworldly Art Nouveau and ethereal, sparkling Edwardian jewels of the early 1900s, and the bold, colorful designs of early Art Deco followed by the starker Art Moderne of the 1930s and 1940s. Each of these design movements was reflected in the cufflinks of the day.

Carrington vest button, circa 1925.

In addition to the plethora of design influences, there were numerous cufflink makers each interpreting and playing off the broader design themes in their own unique and imaginative ways. It is estimated that in the United States alone the number of jewelry makers numbered at least several hundred during the early 1900s. No doubt a significant number of these makers created cufflinks at one time of another. It is little wonder that antique cufflinks offer something to suit almost every taste.

For me the great diversity of cufflinks means that, even after working with antique jewelry for several decades, I still enjoy the thrill of coming across beautiful designs I have never seen before. This past year one of my favorite "discoveries" was the wonderful Carrington dress set illustrated through out this note.

Carrington engraved MOP shirt studs, circa 1925.

During the first half of the 20th century Carrington & Company was known for elegantly designed cufflinks and dress sets. The firm's cufflinks often exhibited a formal, if not conservative, simplicity that highlighted the fineness of the precious materials and the beauty of the craftsmanship.

The Carrington dress set highlighted here features mother-of-pearl centers beautifully engraved with a pattern reminiscent of exploding fireworks. Borders of swirling scrolls crafted in white gold bring to mind a starry night sky. And in the centers luminous pearls are is set in a collets with a finely millegrained edge. To me this dress set is the perfect marriage of elegant formality and Jazz Age pizazz.

Carrington and Jazz Age Pizazz, circa 1925.

The celebratory and joyful exuberance of this dress set captures the spirit of the Holiday season and our hopes for the New Year. Fittingly it was acquired during the Christmas season by a couple celebrating an important anniversary.

The above dress set and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflink Archive

The Antique Cufflink Archive

Carter, Howe moss agate cufflinks, circa 1910.

The Antique Cufflink Archive was begun in the last century as a record of antique cufflinks we have had the pleasure of enjoying and closely examining. I thought the archive could serve three goals:

1. to share the beauty and inventiveness of antique cufflinks (sort of an Art Museum for these miniature masterpieces),

2. to tell the history of the firms and individuals who contributed to the creation of these wonderful jewels, and

3. to serve as a sort of a field guide or reference for cufflinks from the past, especially those created in the United States during the first half of the 20th century.

Link & Angell Art Nouveau cufflinks, circa 1900.

This summer I have given some thought to the latter two goals. From the comments of several readers, I believe the archive is serving well to illustrate the beauty, imagination and diversity of antique cufflinks. The cufflinks are presented somewhat randomly, but as miniature works of Art they do not need context or comparators to be appreciated. I also enjoy the randomness - it mimics the serendipitous way in which antique cufflinks are found in the "wild".

Larter Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

In terms of telling the stories of the cufflink makers and serving as a field guide to antique cufflinks, there is room for improvement. To remedy this I will begin creating on-line galleries for each of the major cufflink makers. In addition to displaying examples of each maker's work, the galleries will share what is known about the maker's history. To aid in the identification of cufflinks, eventually sections on the maker's marks and characteristic design elements will also be added.

Carrington "Golden Scrolls" cufflinks, circa 1900.

For the inaugural gallery I have choosen Carrington & Company. This is partly because Carrington is one of my favorite cufflink makers, but also because their work reflects many of the design themes of the early 20th century.

The Carrington Cufflink Archive is a work in progress, but will give a good sense of the general direction. Any thoughts or suggestions on the format, content, etc of the gallery are appreciated. Enjoy!