Thursday, May 9, 2024

The Dazzle and The Shimmer - Ziething Cufflinks


Ziething "Bull's Eye" cufflinks circa 1925.


Ziething & Company is one of the lesser known makers of fine cufflinks from the first half of the 20th century.  The firm created intricately engraved cuff jewels with beautifully engine-turned centers often surrounded by boldly engraved white gold borders.  When brightly polished these elegant cufflinks literally dazzle and shimmer with reflected light.


Ziething Sapphire Jungle cufflinks. (CLJ9265)

Ziething "Jungle Sapphire" cufflink circa 1925


Ziething & Co. was based in Newark, New Jersey and specialized in creating 10kt and 14kt gold jewelry.  The style and linkage of the firm's cufflinks suggests they were created mostly during the 1920s and early 1930s.  I suspect Ziething, like a number of the other cufflink makers in the early 20th century, did not survive the Great Depression of the 1930s.


The maker's mark for Ziething & Co. is the letter "Z" in a diamond-shaped surround.  The maker's mark is usually found stamped in the middle of the bridge.  The other side of the bridge is stamped with the gold purity mark, "10K".  The Ziething maker's mark is sometimes misidentified as an "N" in an elongated diamond.


Ziething "Spider Web" cufflinks, circa 1925.


Several years ago a reader of the original blog post for this article kindly provided the following background information about Ziething & Co. and its eponymous founder:

"It's good to see the cufflinks by Ziething & Co.  The business was started by my Gt Gt Gt uncle William Henry Ziething (1875-1944) who was brought to America by his father Henry Ziething in about 1884.  William was born in Portsmouth UK. Henry did not get on with his wife and told her that he was taking William & his sister Ada for a holiday to Germany.  They actually went to Newark, New Jersey where they settled.  William & Ada's mother Amelia never knew what happened to the family and assumed that they had drowned on there way to Germany."


Ziething white and yellow gold cufflinks. (J8969)

More elegant examples of cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. can be found on the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Friday, April 5, 2024

A Brief History of Carrington & Co.


In 1921 Carrington & Company, one of the preeminent makers of cufflinks, dress sets and other fine gentleman's accessories during the early decades of the 20th century, celebrated the 50th anniversary of its founding. The Jewelers' Circular, a jewelry trade journal, marked the occasion with the following history of the firm's first 50 years and the career of the firm's venerable leader, Charles L. Carrington.


Charles Lewis Carrington
Charles L. Carrington

TO CELEBRATE 50TH YEAR*

Carrington & Co Newark NJ Will Mark
Golden Anniversary of Establishment
of the Business in July. 

    During the month of July the well known firm of Carrington & Co. Inc., manufacturing jewelers, Newark, N.J., will celebrate its 50th anniversary in business.  Another note worthy event is the fact that EL Carrington who became a partner in the firm three years after the business was originally established still takes an active part and is at present the vice president

   The business was originally started in July, 1871, by Alfred P Mayhew and Isaac Leonard under the style of Mayhew & Leonard.  The first location of the concern was an entire floor in a building at that time known as 19 Green St. which is now part of the site of the present City Hall. 

   It was while C.L. Carrington was traveling for the old firm of George O. Street & Son, in 1874, that he became interested in the line manufactured by Mayhew & Leonard.  Through several odd coincidences Mr Carrington determined to affiliate himself with the Mayhew & Leonard concern and immediately upon his return from a trip he endeavored to obtain a partnership in the business.  After some effort he finally met with success and thereafter the firm became known as Mayhew, Leonard & Carrington.  They still remained at the same address and in 1896 Mr Mayhew and Mr Carrington bought out the interest of their partner, Mr. Leonard.  That partnership continued under the name of Mayhew & Carrington until 1900 when Mr Mayhew retired from the business.  In that year Mr Carrington admitted his two sons E.T. and C.B. Carrington as members of the firm and thereafter the business was carried on under the style of Carrington & Co.  In the same year the business was incorporated under the laws of New Jersey and in 1901 the firm vacated their quarters on Green St and built a large factory at 42 Walnut St. which is still the home of the Carrington concern.

   Since 1917 the firm has used the style of Carrington & Co., Inc. The present officers of the concern are: President, E.T. Carrington; vice president, C.L. Carrington; treasurer, C.B. Carrington, and secretary, W.C. Carrington.  The elder Mr Carrington is now 75 years old, but is still active in business and goes about his regular duties at the factory each day.  He entered the jewelry business in 1866 when he obtained a position as clerk with the old firm of Tomes & Malvain, importers and retailers on Maiden Lane.  The following year he went with Fellows & Ostrander which firm was also located on the "Lane".  He remained with this house for three years and in 1870 he took a position as traveling salesman with George O Street & Son. He remained with this concern until 1874 when he joined the Mayhew & Leonard firm as a partner.

* This article first appeared in the June 1st, 1921 issue of the Jewelers' Circular.


*****

Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set (DS8478)

An elegant Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set
retailed by Tiffany & Co. around 1925.


Examples of Carrington cufflinks, dress sets and stickpins can be found in the Antique Jewelry Galleries and the Antique Cufflink Gallery.