Sunday, August 25, 2019

New in the Gallery - Cuffliks, Dress Sets, Stickpins and Brooches.


Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include shimmering moss agate cufflinks, as well as sporting cufflinks for the fishing and golf enthusiast.

Sloan anglers cufflinks. (J9513)
Angler's Delight  Fish energetically fighting the line and finely detailed fishing lures inhabit reverse intaglios set atop these aquatic cufflinks.  Created by Sloan & Company in 14kt gold circa 1950.  Cost:  $865

Moss agate cufflinks. (J9518)
Moss Agate  Mesmerizing moss agates set in yellow gold.  The moss agates swirl with a tangle of green inclusions evocative of seaweed floating in filtered sunlight along the bottom of the sea.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1920.  Cost:  $885

Lenox Club golf cufflinks. (J9465)
Lenox Golf  Victorian cufflinks celebrating an important milestone at the Lenox Golf Club in the Berkshires - perhaps a club championship or course opening.  Finely crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1897.  Cost:  $925


In the Tuxedo and Dress Set Gallery you will find a recently added onyx and diamond tuxedo set, a Carrington pearl and mother-of-pearl tuxedo set and a full dress set with shimmering moonstones set in platinum, also by Carrington.

Onyx and diamond tuxedo set. (J9497)
Onyx and Diamond  Sculpted onyx centers set with sparkling diamonds surrounded by bright white gold borders of alternating raised and recessed edges.  An elegant study in black and white. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1950.  Cost: $1,425

Carrington mother-of-pearl and pearl cufflinks. (J9429)
Classic Pearls  An elegant tuxedo set with shimmering mother-of-pearl and pearl centers surrounded by white gold borders polished to a bright finish.  Created by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1930.  
Cost: $1,265

Carrington moonstone dress set. (J9512)
Carrington Moonstone  The ethereal light of moonstone set in the cool brilliance of platinum reflecting the elegance of Art Deco design with a touch of moonlit romance.  Crafted  in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.  Cost:  $3,250


New in the Brooch and Pin Gallery is an Art Nouveau brooch set with sapphires and a pearl, a Hans Brassler brooch with diamonds and a sapphire and a Brassler pin inspired by the ancient world with a modern twist.

Art Nouveau sapphire and pearl brooch. (J9240)
Sapphires and Pearl  A dramatic Art Nouveau brooch with dark sapphires and a pearl set amid flowing golden curves reminiscent of a moth's wings.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.  Cost:  $445

Hans Brassler pearl brooch. (J9387)
Ancient Pearl  A hint of ancient Egypt, or perhaps it is ancient Greece, graces this diminutive pearl brooch created by Hans Brassler.  Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  Cost:  $365

Brassler sapphire and diamond brooch. (J9324)
Sapphire and Diamond A vibrant sapphire and sparkling diamonds set in a "trellis" brooch created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.   Cost: $485


New in the Antique Stickpin Gallery is are elegant lapis lazuli and amethyst stickpins created by Hans Brassler and an Art Deco stickpin fit for a pharaoh.

Brassler lapis lazuli stickpin. (J9519)
Medieval Elegance  A rich blue lapis lazuli framed in an elegant setting reflecting the late Victorian interest in the arts and designs of the Middle Ages.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold,  circa 1910.  
Cost:  $465

Hans Brassler amethyst and diamond stickpin. (J9501)
Amethyst and Diamond  A rich purple amethyst rests between rising volutes accented with laurel leaves.  Beneath the laurel wreath a small diamond sparkles.  Created by Hans Brassler in 14kt gold, circa 1910.  
Cost:  $525

Art Deco Egyptain Revival Stickpin (J9517).
Egyptian Deco  A golden pharaoh with an elaborate layered headdress peers from above a small pearl cradled in a torc or "C" scroll.  This classic example of Art Deco sculpture was created by Bippart, Griscom in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.  Cost:  $385

These and other fine jewels from the past can be found in
the Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries

Sunday, August 18, 2019

The "TH" Cufflink Maker Revealed


Heidell & Trow "Black and White" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Black and White" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Several years ago I wrote an article, The Mystery of the TH Maker Revisited, about the affinity between the cufflinks of an unidentified maker who signed pieces "TH" and those of the Irving Heidelscheimer company.

Since that time additional facts have come to light and the identity of the "TH" maker has been revealed.  Earlier this year while reviewing early issues of the Jewelers Circular (a jewelry trade journal founded in 1869) I came across an intriguing notice in a 1919 issue reporting that the Irving Manufacturing Co. (formerly Irving Heidelscheimer) had incorporated and changed its name to Heidell & Trow Co.  The new firm was to maintain the workshop and operations of the predecessor and was to be managed by Irving Heidell and George Swift Trow.  Heidell & Trow seemed a likely suspect for the mysterious "TH" maker.

Heidell & Trow "Anthemion Square" Cufflinks circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Anthemion Square" Cufflinks circa 1925
Further research confirmed that in 1922 Heidell & Trow registered the "T over H" trademark for use with jewelry.  A copy of the trademark registration notice is shown below and several further examples of Heidell & Trow cufflinks follow.

Heidell & Trow trademark registration.
Heidell & Trow trademark registration.

Heidell & Trow "Rippling Pond" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Rippling Pond" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Black & Gold" Cufflinks, circa 1925.
Heidell & Trow "Black & Gold" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Big Bang" Cufflinks, circa 1925
Heidell & Trow "Big Bang" Cufflinks, circa 1925

Additional examples of vintage cufflinks by Heidell & Trow and other makers can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.