Antique and Estate Cufflinks

Cufflinks of the Mysterious "Fleur-de-lys" Maker

2012-01-31T14:10:00.008-05:00

Cufflinks of the Mysterious
"Fleur-de-lys" Maker

Cufflinks of the mysterious "Fleur-de-lys" maker, circa 1925.

The Stamping Act of 1906 required that makers of gold and silver jewels in the United States mark their pieces with the purity of the precious metals. But it was not until 1961 that American jewelry manufacturers were required to sign their pieces with a maker's mark. As a result, there is a body of fine cufflinks created in the first half of the 20th century that are unattributed. The anonymous makers of these beautiful cufflinks have been nicknamed the "Mystery Makers."

Frequent readers of this blog are aware of my interest in the Mystery Makers. This month I feature several striking cufflinks from an unidentified cufflink maker who favored distinctive Fleur-de-lys brackets. The aptly named "Fleur-de-Lys" maker created richly engraved platinum and gold cufflinks in the years around 1925. At the top of this note is a wonderful example with intricately engraved platinum centers flanked by black enamel accents and surrounded by bold zigzag borders.

Fleur-de-lys maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

The Fleur-de-lys maker united jazzy, dramatic borders with intricately engraved centers in a pleasing fusion of Edwardian and Art Deco design. The bold borders beautifully balance the engraved designs and are an integral part of the overall design. All to often borders appear to have been added to cufflinks as an afterthought merely to relieve the plainness of an unfinished edge.

The above Fleur-de-lys maker cufflinks have jazzy Art Deco borders and radiant engraved star burst centers that capture the excitement of the era. They would have been the perfect accessory for an elegant affair at Jay Gatsby's.

Fleur-de-lys Bracket maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

In addition to dramatic borders and intricately engraved centers, the Fleur-de-lys maker favored unusual shapes. Traditionally cufflink makers favored soft, rounded shapes so a cuff could be easily dressed. The design dicta was to avoid obtruding edges and sharp corners that might catch while a cufflinks was being passed through a buttonhole. The most common cufflink profiles were circles, ovals and rectangles with the corners rounded or cut away.

In contrast the Fleur-de-lys maker favored marquises, navettes and hydrid shapes with right angles and unsoftened corners. The unique cufflinks have elegantly jagged profiles that speak to the Art Deco fascination with technology, an embracing of the Machine Age. Given the striking beauty of the cufflinks, any difficulty slipping one through a recalcitrant buttonhole is well worth the effort.

Reverse of Fleur-de-lys maker cufflinks.

Several of the Mystery Makers are known by the distinctive linkages - brackets, bridges and cross bars - they employed. In earlier posts I have written about the Winged Bridge and Acanthus Bridge makers.

The nickname "Fleur-de-lys maker" derives from the elegant, flowing brackets which help secure this maker's cufflinks on the cuff. The bases of the brackets are reminiscent of an iris in bloom. The Fleur-de-lys maker also utilized a distinctive crossbar marked "PLAT." and "14K" for the precious metals.

Fleur-de-lys maker crossbar.

Next month we will discuss several of the clues to
the Fleur-de-Lys maker's identity.

More information about these and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Cufflinks of the mysterious Fleur-de-lys maker, circa 1925.

Recent Additions

2012-01-15T14:48:00.004-05:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink and the Estate Jewelry Galleries include: striking platinum and black enamel cufflinks from the Jazz Age, intricately engraved white gold cufflinks created by L. Fritschze & Company, a hypnotic pair of diamond-set cufflinks from Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and an elegant onyx and pearl dress set. A radiant Art Nouveau brooch of Flora, Goddess of Spring, rounds out the new offerings.

Black Tie Striking cufflinks that bespeak the exuberant elegance of the 1920s. Just right for "putting on the Ritz" at Jay Gatsby's next black tie affair. Created in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Intricately Engraved Elegant white gold cufflinks with intricately engraved radiant star bursts or flower heads. The dramatic centers are surrounded by geometric Art Deco borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Mesmerizing Diamonds A hypnotic swirl of concentric circles set with a sparkling diamond. Dramatic black enamel borders complete the design. Created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Onyx & Pearl Dress Set Dramatic black onyx centers surrounded by elegant white gold borders and set with small white pearls. The dramatic interplay of black and white captures the jazzy elegance of the 1920s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Goddess of Spring A beautifully rendered Art Nouveau brooch of Flora, the Goddess Spring. The Goddess's golden tresses are bestrewn with a bouquet of flowers and foliage. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

The above antique cufflinks and fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

The Joy of Antique Cufflinks

2011-12-31T00:11:00.003-05:00

The Joy of Antique Cufflinks

Carrington engraved MOP dress set, circa 1925.

I hope everyone has enjoyed the best of the Holidays and
is looking forward to an even better New Year!

In earlier notes I have written about the artistry, craftsmanship and history of antique cufflinks. One other factor contributes to the inescapable joy created by cufflinks from the past - the great variety of designs and styles in which they were created.

The years from 1880 to 1950 were a period of ceaseless and dramatic change in jewelry design and the decorative arts in general. Infuences included the historical revivals and countering Aesthetic Movement of the Victorian era, the flowing, otherworldly Art Nouveau and ethereal, sparkling Edwardian jewels of the early 1900s, and the bold, colorful designs of early Art Deco followed by the starker Art Moderne of the 1930s and 1940s. Each of these design movements was reflected in the cufflinks of the day.

Carrington vest button, circa 1925.

In addition to the plethora of design influences, there were numerous cufflink makers each interpreting and playing off the broader design themes in their own unique and imaginative ways. It is estimated that in the United States alone the number of jewelry makers numbered at least several hundred during the early 1900s. No doubt a significant number of these makers created cufflinks at one time of another. It is little wonder that antique cufflinks offer something to suit almost every taste.

For me the great diversity of cufflinks means that, even after working with antique jewelry for several decades, I still enjoy the thrill of coming across beautiful designs I have never seen before. This past year one of my favorite "discoveries" was the wonderful Carrington dress set illustrated through out this note.

Carrington engraved MOP shirt studs, circa 1925.

During the first half of the 20th century Carrington & Company was known for elegantly designed cufflinks and dress sets. The firm's cufflinks often exhibited a formal, if not conservative, simplicity that highlighted the fineness of the precious materials and the beauty of the craftsmanship.

The Carrington dress set highlighted here features mother-of-pearl centers beautifully engraved with a pattern reminiscent of exploding fireworks. Borders of swirling scrolls crafted in white gold bring to mind a starry night sky. And in the centers luminous pearls are is set in a collets with a finely millegrained edge. To me this dress set is the perfect marriage of elegant formality and Jazz Age pizazz.

Carrington and Jazz Age Pizazz, circa 1925.

The celebratory and joyful exuberance of this dress set captures the spirit of the Holiday season and our hopes for the New Year. Fittingly it was acquired during the Christmas season by a couple celebrating an important anniversary.

The above dress set and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-12-15T23:10:00.017-05:00

I hope everyone is enjoying the best of the Holiday season and anticipating an even better New Year!

New additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery and the Estate Jewelry Gallery have slowed as we deal with the annual holiday rush. We have managed to add a pair of striking Art Deco cufflinks by United Jewelers, a Bacchus stickpin from Hans Brassler and a wonderful Victorian swallow brooch.

Art Deco Pizazz Jazzy Art Deco cufflinks with bright concentric-circle centers surrounded by a yellow gold band of wave-like scrolls and white gold borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Bacchus A rich purple amethyst is framed by two images of Bacchus, the God of Wine. Since the ancient Greeks believed amethyst protected the wearer from intoxication, this is the perfect jewel for a fun loving oenophile. Crafted in 14kt gold circa 1910.

Fly Away! A wonderful brooch of a swallow in flight. Among the Victorians swallows were a symbol of a traveler returning safely home. Created by Riker Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Deco - Cufflink Complications

2011-11-30T08:46:00.009-05:00

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

Art Deco - Cufflink
Complications

Among collectors of fine timepieces, watches with intricate mechanisms and a plethora of features are known as "complications." The term is also aptly applied to a group of richly detailed cufflinks created during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s.

Frank Krementz cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design fervently believed that no visible surface should be left unadorned. The more decoration and embellishment, the better. Applying this design dictum to the small area of a cufflink resulted in mesmerizing cuff jewels.

A master of this style was the cufflink maker Frank Krementz. The firm was adept at combining intricate geometric patterns with stylized floral elements to create striking cufflinks with an incredible, almost obsessive, level of detail. The two cufflinks pictured above are beautiful examples.

L. Fritschze labyrinthine cufflinks, circa 1925.

A contemporary, but less prolific, cufflink maker was L. Fritschze and Company. Based in Newark, New Jersey (as were Krementz and Ziething), the firm specialized in cufflinks with dramatic geometric patterns. One's eye (and imagination) is inescapably drawn into the intricate, labyrinth-like designs. The cufflink pictured above is a striking example.

I have to confess a particular fondness for the Fritschze cufflinks. A fondness that only increases with their relative rarity.

Fritschze marquise and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Art Deco "complications" were usually crafted in white gold or a combination of white over yellow gold. Commercially introduced around 1918, white gold is relatively hard compared to platinum and silver and crisply holds detailed, engraved designs. White gold also tarnishes slightly over time, throwing the intricately engraved patterns into high relief.

Ziething octagonal bull's eye cufflinks, circa 1925.

No discussion of intricate Jazz Age cufflinks would be complete without a few sparkling examples from Ziething & Company. The shimmering, abstract designs adorning Ziething cufflinks were created with a technique reminiscent of bright-cut engraving. As a result, the lively, sparkling designs appear to radiate and dance as they catch the light.

Jazzy Ziething cufflinks, circa 1925.

Some of Ziething & Company's finest work are striking two-tone cufflinks. In these the brightness of richly engraved white gold borders contrasts with the warmth of equally intricate yellow gold centers. Pictured above are two beautiful examples.

A final example of the intricate cufflinks of the Art Deco era. Crafted in white gold these cufflinks feature dramatic floral and cruciform centers above a field of concentric circles. The canted-corners are embellished with acanthus leaves (or possibly flaming scrolls) with elongated Greek key designs along the edges in between. One side is set with a small diamond. An awful lot of decoration for a very small piece of real estate!

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

New Additions to Antique Cufflink Gallery

2011-11-22T19:24:00.013-05:00

Kohn & Company Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

For timely updates when new pairs of cufflinks are added to the Antique Cufflink Gallery, please visit our new Facebook and/or Twitter pages. Photographs and links will be posted as new cufflinks are added.

Similar photographs and links will also be posted for new additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

I hope everyone enjoys a festive and peaceful Thanksgiving!

Art Anderson

Recent Additions

2011-11-15T00:01:00.008-05:00

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include beautiful scrolling Art Nouveau cufflinks, a striking engraved mother-of-pearl dress set by Carrington, frosty white gold Art Deco cufflinks and an Art Deco pair with sapphires.

Carrington Fireworks A Carrington full dress set with engraved mother-of-pearl centers reminiscent of exploding fireworks surrounded by swirling scroll borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Voluptuous Swirls A tangle of voluptuous scrolls enlivens these striking Art Nouveau cufflinks. They feature the tight, twisting swirls favored in American Art Nouveau jewelry design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphires and Stars Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic compass rose centers set with small blue sapphires surrounded by angular Greek key borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Art Deco Elegance Beautiful Art Deco cufflinks with flowing scroll borders and dramatically engraved bull's eye centers. Created by Frank Krementz Company in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Art Nouveau Waves Dramatic scrolls flow along the edges of these cufflinks like frothy, crashing waves. A nice example of Art Nouveau design. Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Estate Jewelry

Additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include a beautiful Art Nouveau brooch by Krementz, dramatic irises, sinuous grape vines and a Victorian amethyst and diamond stickpin.

The Dream A woman serenely dreaming amid four-leaf clovers. The clovers are set with sparkling dew drop-like diamonds. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Grapes and Pearls Beautifully detailed grape leaves and a cluster of fresh water pearls cascade across the oval frame of this Victorian brooch. Created 10kt gold, circa 1890.

Bouquet of Irises A bouquet of golden irises flourishes amid an Art Nouveau tangle of curvaceous stems and foliage. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Amethyst and Diamond A regal purple amethyst is accented with fresh water pearls and a sparkling diamond.. The gems are set in a flowing Victorian twig-and-vine setting crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1890.

The above cufflinks, stickpins and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

Happy Halloween!

2011-10-31T17:46:00.007-04:00

Carrington purple enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

For Halloween this year Mother Nature played a trick. An unseasonable snowstorm kept us busy shoveling snow and clearing downed trees this weekend, instead of writing about antique cufflinks. As a result this month's post on the intricate cufflinks of the Art Deco era will have to wait for more clement weather.

Hopefully the above purple guilloche enamel cufflinks by Carrington & Company will be a sufficient treat.

Recent Additions

2011-10-15T20:49:00.005-04:00

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include striking Carrington purple enamels, Fritschze Art Deco diamond cufflinks, a pair of Huger pintstripes and beautifully engraved gold cufflinks from about 1900.

Classical Elegance Elegant cufflinks intricately engraved with repeated waves reminiscent of moire silk. The beautifully engraved centers are surrounded by reeded borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Deco Diamonds Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and dramatic geometric borders. Small diamonds sparkle in box settings with millegrain edges. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Carrington Purple Striking purple enamel over an engine-turned pattern of radiating, scalloped circles. The purple centers are surrounded by borders of white enamel and yellow gold. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

White Pinstripes Brightly polished pinstripe centers surrounded by Art Deco borders with stylized floral elements and intricate scrolls. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Estate Jewelry

Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include several lucky talismans - a four-leaf clover and a winged scarab.

Four-leaf Clover A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of a four-leaf clover set with a small diamond. A wonderful example of flowing, almost surreal Art Nouveau design. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Winged Scarab Soaring wings surround a scarab carved in dark spinach-green Jade. The winged beetle rests atop a stylized lotus blossom. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

The above cufflinks, stickpins and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

Art of the Stickpin

2011-09-30T22:04:00.012-04:00

Art of the Stickpin

The sartorially resplendent gentleman of the early 20th century secured his cuffs with elegant links and accented his tie with a fine stickpin. In past posts, I have enthused about the beauty and artistry of antique cufflinks. Here I will briefly illustrate the beauty and imaginativeness of the contemprorary stickpins.

Many of the fine cufflink makers of a hundred years ago also created stickpins. Among these versatile jewelry makers were Carter, Howe & Company (later Carter, Gough), Whiteside & Blank, Hayden W. Wheeler and Krementz & Company. Below is a brief survey of beautiful and imaginative stickpins these jewelers created. I have kept the commentary to a minimum - the stickpins speak for themselves.

Entwined Serpents

Carter, Howe & Company created a stickpin menagerie teeming with serpents, dragons, griffins and other exotic creatures. This example features entwined serpents with jealous green eyes guarding a regal purple amethyst. A small fresh water pearl is set above the serpents like a distant, full moon. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Dragon and Sceptre

Another example from the Carter, Howe menagerie of exotic and mythical beasts. Here a fierce dragon is either protecting or impaled on a golden sceptre set with a pearl. The dragon watches with a wary dark green eye, a hallmark of the golden chimeras Carter, Howe created. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Egyptian Revival

A stylized palmette soars above a luminous pearl framed with flowing geometric scrolls. A dramatic example of the beautiful Egyptian Revival jewels created in the early 1900s. Victorian and later jewelry makers often found inspiration in the jewels and designs of ancient civilizations. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Heliotrope

A striking heliotrope, or bloodstone, set in a distinctive Arts & Crafts stickpin. The early Arts & Crafts movement drew significant inspiration from the craftsmanship and designs of the Middle Ages. The cruciform-shape of the stickpin and bloodstone reflect the Victorian interest in the symbols and spirituality of the earlier period. Created by The Brassler Company in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Winged Serpent

Continuing the theme of Gothic or Medieval inspired jewels, this menacing stickpin features a winged serpent warily clutching a small pearl. The charming little fellow is the perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons and goblins from a lapel or tie. The rich detail of the stickpin is a nice example of the fully modeled, sculpture-like miniature jewels of the period. Beautifully crafted by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Moonstone

This stickpin exudes classical elegance with a luminous moonstone surrounded by a wreath of laurel leaves. The laurel wreath is exquisitely crafted and finely detailed. The moonstone is complemented by a small white pearl set below. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak

An oak leaf and two acorns grow from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. Possibly created by Krementz & Company in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

This stickpin illustrates a advantage enjoyed by stickpin makers over cufflink makers. Cufflinks had to be created so that they would easily slip though a button hole. The shape and design of cufflinks - rounded and two dimensional - was constrained by their function.

On the other hand stickpin makers could create designs that were three dimensional with dramatic edges. Stickpins have been described as miniature sculptures set atop shafts of gold. This enamel and gold pin is a wonderful example.

These and other fine stickpins can be found in the
Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Cufflinks by the same makers can be found in the
Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-09-15T21:06:00.003-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery and the Estate Jewelry Gallery include a menagerie of lions, dragons and serpents and an alphabet soup of monogrammed cufflinks. A pair of frosty Art Deco cufflinks and a striking bloodstone stickpin complete the new additions.

Antique Cufflinks

Flying Dragons A fierce dragon flies across the front of these late Victorian cufflinks. The dragon is beautifully modeled with reptilian skin, richly detailed wings and grasping talons. Crafted 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Frosty Elegance Art Deco white gold cufflinks with a rich, frosty patina that contrasts beautifully with brightly engraved borders and sparkling diamonds. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Regal Lions A lion with a regal golden mane rises from the grass and roars fiercely. Beautifully detailed with full mane, whiskers and fierce eyes. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

"R" An elegant hand-engraved "R" against an energetic background of wavy and straight lines. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

"G" Elegant pinstripes, a boldly engraved letter "G" and the rich antique color of the gold all date these cufflinks to the Art Deco period. Created by Carter, Gough in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

"N" An elegant "N" in a rectangular cartouche accented with lively scrolls. The sedate linear centers contrast beautifully with the brightly engraved scroll borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Estate Jewelry

Entwined Serpents Entwined serpents with jealous green eyes (possibly cobras) guard a regal purple amethyst. A small fresh water pearl is set above the serpents like a distant, full moon. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Heliotrope A striking heliotrope, or bloodstone, set in a distinctive Arts & Crafts stickpin. The stickpin reflects the influence Medieval design had on Victorian and later jewelry makers. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

The above cufflinks, stickpins and other fine jewels from the past,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and the Estate Jewelry Gallery

Antique Cufflink Archive

2011-08-31T22:07:00.016-04:00

The Antique Cufflink Archive

Carter, Howe moss agate cufflinks, circa 1910.

The Antique Cufflink Archive was begun in the last century as a record of antique cufflinks we have had the pleasure of enjoying and closely examining. I thought the archive could serve three goals:

1. to share the beauty and inventiveness of antique cufflinks (sort of an Art Museum for these miniature masterpieces),

2. to tell the history of the firms and individuals who contributed to the creation of these wonderful jewels, and

3. to serve as a sort of a field guide or reference for cufflinks from the past, especially those created in the United States during the first half of the 20th century.

Link & Angell Art Nouveau cufflinks, circa 1900.

This summer I have given some thought to the latter two goals. From the comments of several readers, I believe the archive is serving well to illustrate the beauty, imagination and diversity of antique cufflinks. The cufflinks are presented somewhat randomly, but as miniature works of Art they do not need context or comparators to be appreciated. I also enjoy the randomness - it mimics the serendipitous way in which antique cufflinks are found in the "wild".

Larter Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

In terms of telling the stories of the cufflink makers and serving as a field guide to antique cufflinks, there is room for improvement. To remedy this I will begin creating on-line galleries for each of the major cufflink makers. In addition to displaying examples of each maker's work, the galleries will share what is known about the maker's history. To aid in the identification of cufflinks, eventually sections on the maker's marks and characteristic design elements will also be added.

Carrington "Golden Scrolls" cufflinks, circa 1900.

For the inaugural gallery I have choosen Carrington & Company. This is partly because Carrington is one of my favorite cufflink makers, but also because their work reflects many of the design themes of the early 20th century.

The Carrington Cufflink Archive is a work in progress, but will give a good sense of the general direction. Any thoughts or suggestions on the format, content, etc of the gallery are appreciated. Enjoy!

Recent Additions

2011-08-15T15:10:00.009-04:00

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include several Art Deco and Art Nouveau pairs set with diamonds.

Deco Dazzle Dazzling Art Deco cufflinks with diamonds, intricately engraved centers and complementing white gold borders. A beautiful example of the jazzy brilliance of Art Deco design during the 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold.

Keller Diamonds Elegant Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds and decoratively engraved with an "M" on one link and an "S" on the other. Created by Charles Keller & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Sinuous Vines The sinuous tendrils of a stylized vine or flower surround a sparkling star-set diamond. Part of a series of flora-inspired cufflinks created by an unidentified maker. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique and Estate Jewelry

In the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery I have just added a striking lion-serpent brooch by Carter, Howe and a lovely Krementz honeymoon brooch.

Lion-Serpent and Pearl A Victorian chimera brooch with the head of a lion, feathered mane of an eagle and body of a serpent. Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1890.

Dogwood Honeymoon The Victorians loved jewels with hidden messages. This brooch with dogwood blossoms and a crescent moon had a special meaning. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

This brooch and other fine estate jewels can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Cufflinks with Enamel Accents

2011-07-31T11:42:00.012-04:00

Krementz guilloche enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

Enamel Accents

Long-term readers of this blog are aware of my passion for guilloche enamel cufflinks. The gem-like enamels covering richly engraved patterns are miniature masterpieces equal to any precious gemstone. An example of guilloche enameling by Krementz & Company is pictured above.

But, beautiful enamel work in antique cufflinks is not limited to dramatic guilloche centers. Enamel accents were often employed as borders framing engraved surfaces or gem-set centers. At other times, intricate enamel tracery was an integral part of the design, itself. The enamels added eye-catching color and contrast.

British cufflinks with blue enamel accents, circa 1925.

The above British cufflinks shimmer with intoxicating blue enamel borders surrounding intricately engine-turned (machine engraved) centers. The translucent enamel highlights an underlying ripple pattern. The wedding of deep blue enamel and warm yellow gold is inescapably elegant.

During the 1920s and 30s, British cufflink makers created some of the most beautiful enamel and engine-turned cufflinks. British enamel work and engine turning may be a good topic for a future note. Another beautiful example of the artistry of British engine turning can be found at the end of this note.

Larter "squiggle" cufflinks with dark blue enamel borders.

Enamel accents were added to cufflinks using an ancient technique known as "champlevé." Under this technique recesses were carved or cast into the upper surfaces of the cufflinks. Then, vitreous enamels in the form of glass powder were fired in the recesses. The recesses served to both define the pattern of the enamel work and protect it. Once the cufflinks had cooled the surfaces were polished, creating a beautiful interplay between the colorful enamels and the precious metal.

For example, the Larter & Sons cufflinks pictured above feature a double border of deep blue enamel set between polished bands of gold. The unusual center pattern is a myriad of twisting forms, a design we have nicknamed "Infinite Squiggles". Larter had a knack for creating beautiful cufflinks with intriguing gold centers and striking enamel borders.

Larter "Blue and Gold" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Another example of Larter's virtuosity in creating beautiful cufflinks featuring richly detailed gold centers and dramatic enamel borders. The blue enamel borders frame stylized floral motifs. The radial symmetry of the design gives the cufflinks a mesmerizing kaleidoscopic effect. Crafted in 14kt gold around 1920.

Richardson black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

In 1929 an exhibition of jewels in Paris challenged the early Art Deco penchant for vibrant, bold colors. At the exhibition striking all-white and black-and-white jewelry captured the imagination of designers and the public. During the 1930s jewels crafted in platinum or white gold were set with sparkling diamonds, black onyx, white pearls and shimmering dark enamels. These dramatic jewels came to define the striking elegance of the Art Moderne look.

Cufflink maker's were not immune to the emerging fashion. Pictured above and below are striking black-and-white cufflinks created by the Richardson Manufacturing Company during the 1930s. Crafted in 14kt white gold, they feature centers of jazzy, wavy lines surrounded by dramatic black enamel borders.

Richardson black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Founded by Enos Richardson in 1841, Richardson Manufacturing Company (originally Enos Richardson & Company) was one of the longest surviving American jewelry makers. Based in Newark, New Jersey, the firm created a broad range of jewels and accessories in silver and gold. The firm's striking black-and-white cufflinks from the Art Deco era are among the rarities of enamel cufflinks.

Keller Arts & Crafts cufflinks, circa 1910.

Another long-established American maker of fine cufflinks was Charles Keller & Company. Among the firm's creations were gold cufflinks accented with blue enamel designs. The cufflinks were crafted in 10 and 14kt gold and date from the early 1900s till the 1930s.

The cufflink pictured above dates from the Arts & Crafts period (circa 1910) and features a striking blue enamel border that anticipates the bold, geometric designs of the later Art Deco period. For further examples of Keller blue and gold cufflinks see my earlier note Keller Blues.

British engine-turned cufflinks, circa 1930.

Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-07-15T21:38:00.011-04:00

July is traditionally a quiet month in the jewelry trade. But, despite taking time to hike in the mountains with the beagle and watching the Tour de France, I have added several pairs of cufflinks, stickpins and brooches to the Antique Cufflink and Antique and Estate Jewelry Galleries.

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include two beautiful enamel pairs - one British and one created by the quintessential American jewelry maker, Krementz & Company.

Regal Blue Elegant cufflinks with regal blue enamels and striking Art Deco borders crafted in white gold. Engraved radiant starbursts are highlighted by the translucent enamel. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Blue and Gold Elegant British cufflinks with engraved gold centers of rippling lines surrounded by beautiful blue enamel borders. Crafted in 9kt gold, circa 1925.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique and Estate Jewelry

Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include two striking brooches and two equally beautiful stickpins.

Serpent and Acanthus A fierce lion-headed serpent with a tail of flame-like acanthus leaves warily guards this brooch with a jealous green eye. A glowing pearl is set in the center. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1890.

Amethyst and Pearls II A dramatic Art Nouveau brooch of undulating curves and entwined organic shapes set with a regal purple amethyst and five small pearls. Created by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak An oak leaf and two acorns suspend from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. Crafted in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Laurel Wreath and Moonstone The classical elegance of a wreath of laurel leaves surrounding a luminous moonstone. The laurel wreath is exquisitely crafted and detailed. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

These and other fine estate jewels can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Garland Style Cufflinks

2011-06-30T11:09:00.014-04:00

WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.

Garland Style Cufflinks

Wordley, Allsop & Bliss (WAB) was one of the more prolific makers of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. Founded in 1907, the firm created beautiful cufflinks in a great variety of styles and designs. Their work ranged from late Victorian sleeve links to dramatic, if understated, Art Deco designs during the 1920s.

WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.

One of the signature designs of WAB was sweeping garlands surrounding a blossoming flower or sparkling gemstone. Known as the "garland style", these cufflinks reflect the influence of beautiful jewels created by Cartier in Paris and Faberge in St. Petersburg during the years around 1900.

Turning away from the sometimes fussy eclecticism of Victorian jewels and the surreal "naturalism" of Art Nouveau design, Cartier and Faberge turned to late 18th century France and the ill-fated court of Louis XVI for inspiration. The elegant jewels of the period sparkled with a cornucopia of Neoclassical motifs - garlands, swags, bowed ribbons and naturalistic flowers.

WAB sapphire and gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

WAB's interpretation of Neoclassical design incorporates bowed ribbons - represented as three squares or rectangles in a row with flared ends just below - from which suspend flowing garlands of small flowers. The garlands surround a stylized flower, or is it a radiant star burst? The centers were also often set with diamonds or rich blue cabochon sapphires.

WAB black and white ufflinks, circa 1925.

Most of the WAB garland-style cufflinks have double-box-and-cross borders as thrown into dramatic relief in this pair of black-and-white cufflinks from the Art Deco era. A second border design features elongated "S" scrolls in trapezoid-shape cells. This border appears to have been reserved for rectangular cufflinks with canted corners. The gold and cabochon sapphire cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of the latter design.

WAB created beautiful cufflinks in white and yellow 14kt gold from 1907 into the 1930s. During this period the firm underwent several name changes and was eventually absorbed by Krementz & Company during the 1950s. The maker's mark of the firm, "WAB" with the letters conjoined, is found stamped on the cross bars of the cufflinks with a "14K" gold purity mark just below or on the opposite side.

Strobell & Crane garland style cufflinks, circa 1920.

Although WAB was a significant creator of garland style cufflinks, they were not the only one. Other firms like Larter & Sons and Strobell & Crane also embraced the style. The above pair of Strobell & Crane cufflinks features cascading garlands of laurel leaves surrounding stylized flowers and faceted blue sapphires. The sweeping garlands are enclosed in a quatrefoil frame which along with the antique color of the gold gives the cufflinks a wonderful Medieval feel.

WAB garland style cufflinks, circa 1925.

Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-06-15T00:47:00.009-04:00

Antique Cufflinks

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include classically elegant Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, Carrington onyx and platinum octagons, beautifully engraved Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, and white and yellow gold garland-style cufflinks from the 1920s.

Classical Elegance Foliate wreath borders, pinstripe centers, sparkling diamonds and rich blue sapphires. An elegant example of the inescapable beauty and timelessness of antique cufflinks. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Onyx and Platinum Striking Carrington cufflinks featuring eight-sided black onyx centers surrounded by brightly polished and engraved platinum borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Sapphires and Diamonds Elegant platinum and gold cufflinks set with blue sapphires and sparkling diamonds. The platinum centers are surrounded by dramatic yellow gold borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Engraved Elegance II Elegant two-tone cufflinks with intricately engraved yellow gold centers surrounded by dramatic white gold borders with alternating scrolls and flower heads. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique and Estate Jewelry

Recent additions to the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery include a striking Art Deco Citrine brooch and stickpins featuring noble horses and fiery dragons.

Art Deco Brooch A dramatic Art Deco brooch set with a beautiful honey-colored Citrine. The gold sides of the brooch rise up pyramid-like to support the gemstone. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Equestrian Beautifully designed stickpin of an energetic, alert horse. A small red stone (likely a garnet) is set in the eye. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Dragon and Sceptre The Victorians celebrated an exotic menagerie of mythical and whimsical creatures atop their stickpins. This pin features a fierce dragon protecting a golden sceptre while warily watching with a dark green eye. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

These and other fine estate jewels can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Krementz Double Cufflinks

2011-05-30T23:05:00.015-04:00

Krementz double cufflinks with roaring lions, circa 1900.

Krementz Doubles

What the Bachs were to music and the Bernoullis to mathematics, the Krementz family has been to jewelry manufacturing in the United States. When George Krementz founded Krementz & Company in 1866 he began a jewelry dynasty that has touched three centuries. The original firm, its successors and offshoots have been an innovative force in everything from fine to costume jewelry, colored gemstones to rich enamels, cufflinks to stickpins.

Roaring lion cufflinks, circa 1900.

Among the more captivating creations from the firm's long history is a series of "double" cufflinks dating to the years around 1900. Cufflinks with a decorated front, a curved bridge and a small oval back, also known as a "bean back", were common during the late Victorian period and early 1900s. The backs were often left plan or merely engraved with the owner's initials. Krementz added a little pizazz to the bean backs.

Reverse of roaring lion cufflinks.

Around 1900, Krementz began recreating the striking image decorating the fronts of the cufflinks on the smaller bean backs. The fierce lion cufflinks pictured above are a wonderful example. From the front a roaring lion stares menacingly. His snarling visage and fierce eyes are framed with a flowing, golden mane. On the back an equally dramatic lion roars, this time in profile. The images of the lions are beautifully sculpted and richly detailed.

Mermaid and Swan cufflinks, circa 1900.

Krementz & Company was one of the first jewelry firms to bring Art Nouveau design to America. Among the firm's work in the emerging style were beautiful flower and foliage brooches colored with shimmering pastel enamels. An example is pictured at the end of this post.

Krementz also created cufflinks in the Art Nouveau taste. The above pair features a mermaid with flowing hair, a passing swan and swaying cattails. The mermaid's sceptre is set with a small rose-cut diamond for a magical touch of sparkle. The cufflinks reflect the Art Nouveau fascination with nature and fantasy.

Reverse of mermaid cufflinks.

On the backs of the cufflinks the mermaid-and-swan scene is faithfully recreated in miniature. The only exception is that the sceptre is now diamond free.

Art Nouveau priestess cufflinks, circa 1900.

In addition to nature and fantasy, Art Nouveau jewelry designers drew upon ancient and distant cultures to capture a sense of the exotic. This pair of cufflinks features a princess or priestess adorned with an elaborate headdress. The design, possibly inspired by the ancient Egyptian or Mayan civilizations, was largely shaped by the artist's imagination. Classic flowing Art Nouveau curves are evident in the "ribbons" beneath the woman's chin.

Front and reverse of Art Nouveau cufflinks.

Once again, the striking image of the exotic princess is repeated on the reverse of the cufflinks.

Victorian serpent cufflinks, circa 1890.

A little earlier than the prior two Art Nouveau pairs, this pair of Krementz cufflinks nicely illustrates the late Victorian love affair with writhing serpents and critter-related jewelry. In this case rattlesnakes are the critters of choice.

For the Victorians jewelry often carried symbolic meanings. Intertwined or coiled snakes were a symbol of good fortune and eternity. The vine entwining the snakes appears to be a clematis vine, a Victorian symbol for ingenuity.

Front and reverse of serpent and vine cufflinks, circa 1890.

Hints of Art Nouveau design can be seen in the sinuous curves of the snakes and vines. The manner in which the scaly, reptilian bodies of the snakes form the borders of the cufflinks also suggest an Art Nouveau influence.

Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

********

Krementz Art Nouveau brooch, circa 1900.

I mentioned earlier that one of the contributions of Krementz & Company to American Art Nouveau design were small flower-inspired brooches colored with shimmering enamels. The above jewel is a wonderful example set pearls, an amethyst and a small sparkling dianond.

The Krementz Art Nouveau brooch can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-05-15T20:47:00.024-04:00

The past month has been busy. I have been working with several cufflink collectors off-line and adding a collection of brooches to the Estate Jewelry Gallery. Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Nouveau sunflowers crafted by the unidentified "Maltese Cross" maker and an equally dramatic pair of black-and-white cufflinks from the 1930s.

Sunflowers Exuberant sunflowers and a tangle of whiplash vines grace these Art Nouveau cufflinks. The dramatic sunflowers and vines are beautifully sculpted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Black and White Dramatic Art Deco cufflinks with striking black enamel borders and linearly engraved white gold centers. Created by Enos Richardson & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

The fine cufflink makers often featured in these pages created a variety elegant jewels. Below is a trilogy of brooches created by Krementz & Co., Whiteside & Blank and Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in the years around 1900. The same care these jewelers brought to the design and crafting of cufflinks is also seen in these beautiful brooches.

Amethyst and Pearls A striking Art Nouveau brooch with pastel enamel leaves, pearl clusters and a small diamond surrounding a regal amethyst. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Nouveau A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of intertwined ginkgo leaves surrounding a lavender pastel Amethyst. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Clover and Pearls A beautifully enameled Victorian lucky clover brooch. The edges of the petals and stem are gold and set with small graduated pearls. Created by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks and jewels, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery
and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Garden of the Maltese Cross Maker

2011-04-30T14:12:00.019-04:00

Garden of the Maltese Cross Maker

Art Nouveau sunflower cufflinks by the "Maltese Cross" maker, circa 1900.

Spring has arrived in fits and starts this year. But, after several days of warm sunshine, the garden is abloom with hyacinth and blue bells, tulips and daffodils. All of which puts me in mind of one of the more florally focused cufflink makers of the early 1900s.

In the years around 1900, an unknown jewelry maker (nicknamed the "Maltese Cross maker") created an elegant collection of cufflinks abloom with flowers and foliage. These nature-inspired cufflinks reflected the sinuous curves and tangled forms of Art Nouveau design. The sunflower cufflinks pictured above are a wonderful example of the maker's work. The striking sunflowers and flowing vines (possibly acanthus) seem to spontaneously spring from the richly sculpted gold.

Whiplash vine cufflinks, circa 1900.

Whiplash curves were a signature of Art Nouveau design. The dramatically flowing acanthus leaves and vines which entangle the tops of these cufflinks are an elegant example. Among the Victorians acanthus was a symbol of the Arts. Jewels featuring acanthus leaves were often given to someone with artistic talent or aspirations. During the Art Nouveau period acanthus leaves and vines were also appreciated for their exotic, sinuous shapes.

Laurel sprig cufflinks by the "Maltese Cross" maker, circa 1890.

A little less effusive, a little more restrained than the prior cufflinks, this pair features laurel sprigs with berries - an ancient symbol of victory and status. The more restrained design suggests these cufflinks date from the late Victorian period, perhaps around 1890.

Based on the style and design of the cufflinks, I believe the "Maltese Cross" maker was active from about 1890 to 1910.

Reverse of "Maltese Cross" maker cufflinks.

The cufflinks are beautifully crafted in 14kt gold with curved "Y" bridges attaching the tops to traditional bean backs. A small gold ball is set at the split of the "Y". This bridge and back design was also favored by Alling & Company during the same period, although there is currently no further basis for assuming a relationship between the two firms.

"Maltese Cross" maker's mark.

In addition to dramatic floral and foliate designs, the cufflinks are distinguished by a maker's mark - a stylized Teutonic or Maltese cross within a circular border. The maker's mark is found on the inside of the bean backs along with a "14K" gold purity mark. The above photo of the maker's mark is from the stickpin pictured below. Photographing the inside of the bean backs proved too difficult.

Enamel four-leaf clover stickpin.

The Maltese cross maker's jewels were not limited to cufflinks. This verdant stickpin is a lucky talisman featuring beautiful enamel work, richly detailed petals and a small pearl. Crafted in 14kt gold around 1900, the stickpin illustrates the "Maltese Cross" maker's commitment to fine design and uncompromising craftsmanship.

Additional details of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-04-15T23:19:00.014-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include roaring lions by Krementz, dragons set with diamonds, striking white and black "garland and swag" links by WAB, and a sunny pair of yellow and white gold cufflinks.

Roaring Lions A fierce lion glares out from behind a golden mane. The lion is richly detailed with a full mane, whiskers and fierce eyes. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Dragons and Diamonds The Victorians were mesmerized by a menagerie of fantastic creatures. This dramatic pair of cufflinks features a dragon or possibly a sea serpent fiercely guarding a small diamond. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

White Garlands Dramatic black and white cufflinks from the Jazz Age. The cufflinks feature garland and swag centers surrounded by geometric box-and-cross borders elegantly accented with black enamel. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Yellow and White Yellow and white gold cufflinks that have a warm glow like Spring sunshine. The richly engraved gold surfaces create a warm, shimmering appearance. Crafted by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

We also recently added an elegant eagle stickpin
in the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks, can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Carrington Abalone Cufflinks

2011-03-31T23:07:00.018-04:00

Carrington abalone and pearl cufflinks, circa 1935.

Other projects in the gallery have necessitated a brief leave from writing about antique cufflinks. But ongoing research continues. I hope to post next month about the beautiful "doubles" created by Krementz & Co. in the years around 1900.

Meanwhile, pictured above is a beautiful abalone and pearl cufflink created by Carrington & Company. A wonderful example of the clean, elegant design favored during the late 1930s. The abalone, a dark aubergine with flashes of red and green, contrasts beautifully with the brilliance of the platinum borders and the white pearls. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1935.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-03-15T17:36:00.010-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair by Carrington featuring abalone, pearls and platinum, elegant Sapphire and Diamond cufflinks, Charles Keller blue enamel and gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style, two pairs of dramatically engine-turned "Big Bang" cufflinks, and an Onyx and Diamond dress set by Carter, Gough.

Carrington Abalone and Pearl Elegant abalone and pearl cufflinks in the Art Moderne style of the late 1930s. The abalone is a dark aubergine hue with flashes of red and green. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1935.

Sapphires and Diamonds Elegantly engraved platinum cufflinks set with blue sapphires. and sparkling diamonds. Surrounded by dramatic borders of winged volutes and stylized blossoms. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Keller Arts & Crafts Gold and blue enamel cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style. The brightly polished yellow gold centers are surrounded by a captivating border of blue enamel. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1910.

Big Bang The brilliance of beautifully engraved platinum and sparkling diamonds. These cufflinks radiate outward like exploding fireworks in the night sky. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Diamond and Onyx An elegant diamond and onyx dress set from the 1920s. The white gold borders surrounding the black onyx are engraved with a dramatic Art Deco zigzag pattern. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Big Bang II White gold cufflinks beautifully engraved with a radiating pattern that explodes like a silvery firework in the night sky. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

We also recently added an elegant Egyptian Revival stickpin
to the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Charles Keller Blue Enamel Cufflinks

2011-02-28T21:24:00.009-05:00

Charles Keller gold and blue enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

Keller Blues

Charles Keller & Company was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks during the early 20th century. Although not as recognized as Carrington & Company or Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, Keller created beautiful cufflinks in a variety of distinctive styles.

Among the firm's specialties were cufflinks that elegantly accented rich yellow gold with regal blue enamel. The cufflink pictured above is a wonderful example. Set with small diamonds and featuring beautifully engraved centers, the corner's of the cufflink are finished with stylized floral motifs highlighted in vibrant blue enamel.

Charles Keller enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

The intricately engraved centers are a miniature scene of a rippling body of water with upward striving plants in the foreground. The theme of aquatic flora is repeated in the blue enamel and gold motifs of the corners. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Charles Keller 10kt gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

Keller created cufflinks in both 10kt and 14kt gold. The above 10kt gold cufflink features a dramatic star burst or stylized flower head motif. Around the edges an inward-turning stipple pattern is outlined in blue enamel. The lower karatage gives the gold a pale, almost washed out appearance that nicely contrasts with the bolder color of the enamel.

Keller cufflinks often included rich design elements like stylized flower heads and the beautiful plant-and-water scene pictured above. But not always ...

Charles Keller Arts & Crafta cufflinks, circa 1910.

This pair of Keller cufflinks is from the Arts & Crafts period of the early 1900s. The yellow gold centers are polished to a mirror-like finish and surrounded by captivating blue enamel borders. A wonderful example of the simple elegance of Arts & Crafts design.

Close-up of maker's mark.

The maker's mark of Charles Keller & Company is an elongated "C" followed by a "K". Inside the "C" a "10" or "14" indicates the purity of the gold. The maker's mark is usually found stamped on the crossbars (as pictured above) or the reverse of the cufflinks.

Charles Keller & Company was founded in 1885. The firm created gold and platinum cufflinks, lockets and other jewels in a workshop based in Newark, New Jersey. From surviving examples, it is clear the firm created cufflinks in a great variety of styles. Charles Keller & Company remained in business until the early 1930s.

Charles Keller sodalite and gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

In addition to beautiful blue enamels, Charles Keller & Company also created cufflinks set with striking blue gemstones. This blue and gold pair features the exotic gemstone sodalite. The gemstone is reminiscent of a dark night sky with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight. Along with Lapis lazuli, sodalite was favored by Art Deco jewelry designers because of its intense, rich blue color.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-02-15T10:50:00.010-05:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant blue enamel and diamond cufflinks, exuberant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss two-tone links, a pair of classic platinum and gold ovals by Carrington, striking Tiger Eye spool links, and frosty Carter, Gough snowflakes.

Keller Blue and Gold II An amazing pair of Charles Keller cufflinks with blue enamel accents and sparkling diamonds. The navy blue enamel beautifully contrasts with the warm, rich tones of the yellow gold. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Garlands and Swags Exuberant two-tone cufflinks from the 1920s. Yellow gold centers feature classic garlands and swags surrounded by white gold borders with a bold geometric design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Carrington Classics A beautiful pair of Carrington ovals with linearly engraved centers surrounded by spiralling, twisted-ribbon borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Tiger Eye Striking cufflinks with beautiful Tiger Eyes set in rose gold. The Tiger Eyes are brown accented with just a hint of green and rich honey colored "eyes." Created by Sansbury & Nellis in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Carter Snowflakes Striking eight-sided cufflinks with dramatic snowflake or star burst designs surrounded by elegant, upsweeping borders. Created by Carter, Gough & Co. in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Wintry Cufflinks

2011-01-31T11:30:00.007-05:00

Wintry Cufflinks

Since the beginning of the year we have had several snow falls. The woods are covered with knee-deep powder that is perfect for snowshoeing and watching the dogs play. In celebration of all the wintry white stuff, I have put together a small collection of platinum and white gold cufflinks that shimmer and sparkle like fresh snow.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss frosty octagons, circa 1925.

These brilliant Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks sparkle with wintry elegance and pizazz. The frosty white cufflinks feature pendant garlands (mistletoe?) surrounding snowflake-like centers. A dramatic border of boxes and crosses frames the design. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1925.

Heidelshimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved with repeating sunrise or wave motifs and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. The diamonds are set in platinum bezels with mille grain edges. Created by Irving Heidelshimer in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Finely engraved "TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1925.

The finely engraved centers of these cufflinks from the "TH" maker shimmer like fields of fresh snow in early morning sunlight. The Art Deco palmette corners and stylized water lily borders offer a sunny counterpoint to our wintry theme. An elegant pair of cufflinks adapted for all seasons. Created in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Fritschze frosty white gold and diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

Mysterious marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and undulating borders of stylized water lilies. A small diamond set in a box setting with mille grain edges sparkles in the center. Created by L. Frtischze & Co. in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Ziething intricately engraved cufflinks, circa 1925.

No note on shimmering wintry cufflinks is complete without a mesmerizing pair of intricately engraved cufflinks by Ziething & Company. Crafted in white gold, these cufflinks almost burst with myriad, exuberant designs. A wonderful example of the early Art Deco passion for rich details and embellished surfaces. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2011-01-15T23:47:00.017-05:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant Art Deco jade and gold cufflinks and a trinity of navette-shape (elongated hexagon) cufflinks from the early 1900s.

Jade and Gold The Art Deco era was in love with bold, contrasting colors. These elegant cufflinks feature dark spinach green jade set in brilliant yellow gold. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Art Deco Beautiful Art Deco cufflinks with black enamel accents nicely complemented by intricate linear and geometric motifs. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Midnight Blue Elegant cufflinks with rich blue gemstones that bring to mind dark night skies with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Elegant Scrolls Elegant elongated cufflinks with sinuous scrolls and dramatic darts. Designed in the eclectic Beaux Arts style of the early 1900s. Created by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

2010-12-31T19:30:00.012-05:00

The Mystery of the "TH" Maker Revisited

Irving Heidelsheimer diamond and platinum cufflinks, circa 1920.

I hope everyone is enjoying the best of the Holiday Season and anticipating a happy New Year! December is traditionally the month I try to tie up some of the loose ends cluttering my desk. In that spirit this note relates to the "TH" maker and a recently acquired pair of Heidelsheimer cufflinks.

Several months ago I wrote about "mystery makers" - makers of fine cufflinks about whom we know little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. One of these unidentified makers is known as the "TH" maker. The sparkling platinum and diamond cufflinks pictured above may shed some light on this mystery firm.

"TH" maker cufflinks with anthemion corners, circa 1925.

The TH maker created elegant double-sided cufflinks during the 1920s and 30s. The above cufflink is a wonderful example from the early Art Deco period. The cufflink features stylized anthemion (palmette) corners with water lily borders surrounding intricately engine turned centers.

"TH" maker's mark.

The TH maker earned its nickname because of the maker's mark found stamped on the cross bars of the cufflinks - a "T" atop an "H". Beneath the maker's mark a "14" indicates the purity of the gold. The TH maker created cufflinks in 14-karat white and yellow gold.

Reverse of TH maker anthemion and water lily cufflinks.

In addition to elegant design and the maker's mark, the cufflinks of the TH maker are also characterized by distinctive cross bars and brackets. The brackets resemble a small bow tie with the edge outlined with an incised channel. The cross bars have tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. When the maker's mark is obscured, the distinctive brackets and cross bars can aid in identification.

At the beginning of this note a glittering diamond and platinum cufflink created by Irving Heidelsheimer around 1920 is illustrated. Irving Heidelsheimer (succeeded by Irving Manufacturing Company) was a maker of fine gold jewelry and cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. The firm like many of the fine cufflink makers of the day was based in Newark, New Jersey.

Reverse of Heidelsheimer platinum and diamond cufflinks.

Like the TH cufflink, the reverse of the Heidelsheimer cufflink was crafted in 14kt yellow gold. Even more interesting, the brackets and cross bars of the Heidelsheimer cufflink show a marked similarity to corresponding hardware of the TH cufflink.

Both cufflinks feature the same bow tie style bracket with an incised line shadowing the edge. In addition, the cross bars of the two cufflinks are similar in design with tapered waists and elongated, teardrop-shaped eyelets. A close-up of the cross bar and maker's mark of the Heidelsheimer cufflink is shown below.

Close-up of Heidelsheimer cross bars and maker's mark.

The similarity of the brackets and cross bars strongly suggests that the TH maker and the Heidelsheimer firm were in some way related. But the nature of that relationship remains unclear. Several possibilities suggest themselves:

1. Perhaps, the TH maker was a successor firm to the Irving Manufacturing Company (successor to Irving Heidelsheimer). During this period it was not uncommon for one jewelry firm to absorb another and then continue the designs and patterns of the latter.

2. Or, possibly, Heidelscheimer and the TH maker were one and the same. The "TH" could have been an alternative maker's mark adopted by Heidelsheimer to better fit the small area afforded by the tapered waist of the cross bars. The "H" might have signified "Heidelsheimer". But, then, what of the "T"?

3. A third possibility is that the cross bars and brackets were created by Heidelsheimer and wholesaled as findings (jewelry components) to other jewelry makers. Patent illustrations from 1916 indicate that the Heidelsheimer firm was using this style of crossbar from at least the mid teens. Unfortunately the illustrations don't provide a clear view of the brackets.

Each of these possibilities is no more than speculation. Each points to a direction of further research, but does not currently provide any answers.

When researching antique cufflinks answering one question usually leads to several more. Uncovering one clue leads to another mystery. Such is the endless fascination and mystique of antique jewels.

Heidelsheimer cufflinks, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-12-15T20:29:00.018-05:00

During the busy holiday season we have added cufflinks set with diamonds, carnelians and moonstones to the Antique Cufflink Gallery. There is also an elegant Carrington dress set glittering with rose-cut diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Warmest wishes to all for the best of the holidays.

Diamond Elegance Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Carnelian and Gold Alluring sultry Carnelians set in gold. The interplay of the Carnelians' color and the yellow gold gives these cufflinks an inescapable elegance. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Moonstruck Luminous moonstones glow in the center of these mesmerizing gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style. The bluish cast of the moonstones adds an air of mystery. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Carrington Elegance An elegant full dress with mother-of-pearl centers surrounded by sparkling halos of rose-cut diamonds. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

In addition to the above cufflinks, I recently added a striking
Carter, Gough Moss Agate stickpin to the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Colorful Cufflinks

2010-11-30T19:49:00.009-05:00

Carrington & Co. purple guilloche enamel cufflinks.

Colorful Cufflinks

The past several years I have written in November about snowflake cufflinks - the platinum and white gold cufflinks that sparkle with intricately engraved patterns. It was sort of an impromptu celebration of the coming Winter.

But, this year November has been a little too gray and chilly. So, I thought a discussion of colorful cufflinks might help dispel the coming winter blues. This month we feature cufflinks set with beautiful colored gemstones and rich jewel-like enamels.

Regal blue guilloche enamel cufflinks.

Among cufflinks brightened with fine enamel work the most intriguing are the guilloche enamels. The process for creating these miniature masterpieces was as involved as the finished jewels are beautiful.

First the cufflinks were engraved with a mesmerizing design of radiating curves and intertwining lines using a technique known as "engine turning" or "guilloche". The intricately engraved tops were then covered with a translucent colored enamel. The vitreous luster of the enamel and depth of color along the engraved lines served to throw the engraved pattern into stunning relief. The elegant blue and gold cufflinks pictured above are a wonderful example created by Taylor & Company around 1925.

The pair of Carrington cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note is a second striking example of beautiful guilloche enameling.

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Boldly colored enamels also served as accents and borders. The above Larter & Sons cufflinks feature alternating royal blue enamel and gold bands which frame richly textured centers teeming with golden squiggles. A design we have nicknamed "Infinite Squiggles". The regal elegance of the blue enamel beautifully complements the warm texture of the gold.

Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

Two hallmarks of Art Deco design were bold geometry and dramatic color. The cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of both. The intoxicating color of the emerald-cut Tourmaline is matched by the bold, geometric gold work. A wonderful example of Art Deco design. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Carrington carnelian and gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

A second pair of Art Deco era cufflinks with exuberant color. This dramatic pair features cabochon-cut Carnelians that glow a sultry red. The wonderful luminous hue of the low-dome Carnelians gives the links an inescapable elegance. Crafted by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Arts & Crafts moonstone cufflinks, circa 1900.

The first five pairs of cufflinks illustrated in this note are from the years around 1925 when bold, eye-popping colors were in vogue. Earlier in the century a softer color palette was preferred. The jewelers of the early 1900s favored pastel shades of enamel and luminous gemstones. The above cufflinks from the Arts & Crafts period feature shimmering moonstones with a subtle bluish cast. The billowy luster of the moonstones ("adularescence" in gemology speak) beautifully plays off the color and texture of the antique gold. Created by Day, Clark & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-11-15T13:49:00.007-05:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include elegant golden acanthus scrolls from Carrington & Company, frosty white octagons by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, two pairs of platinum and gold cufflinks featuring sapphires and diamonds, and a striking pair of sultry red Carnelian cufflinks from Carrington.

Golden Scrolls Beautifully chased and hand-engraved acanthus leaf scrolls fill these striking cufflinks from Carrington & Company. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Winter Jazz Brilliant white gold cufflinks that sparkle with the elegance of the Jazz Age. The frosty white centers feature swag and starburst motifs surrounded by dramatic box-and-cross borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Sapphire Elegance Bright platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and dramatic scroll borders set with sapphires. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Diamond and Sapphire Elegance Platinum and gold cufflinks elegantly engraved with foliate and lattice designs. Set with small diamonds and rich blue man-made sapphires. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Carrington Red Alluring cufflinks featuring rich, sultry red Carnelians set in antique yellow gold. The luminous glow of the Carnelians imbues these cufflinks with inescapable elegance. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

In addtion to the above cufflinks, I recently added a fierce lion
and pearl stickpin to the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Art Deco Cufflinks

2010-10-31T20:37:00.019-04:00

Art Deco Cufflinks

Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

The Art Deco era roughly coincided with the decades between 1920 and 1940, although examples of Art Deco design can be found from earlier and later periods. Art Deco was in part a reaction to the sinuous naturalism and eclectic historicism of earlier styles. But, even more, Art Deco was a reflection of the optimism, the sense of newness of a world entering the post-World War I period.

Common Art Deco themes include dramatic sunbursts, stylized flora and geometric forms. The cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of the later. The bold, sculptural tops are set with rich green step-cut Tourmalines. The color and cut of the gemstones beautifully complements the design of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold around 1930.

Stylized palmette and water lily cufflinks, circa 1920.

From slightly earlier in the Art Deco period, the above white gold cufflinks feature dramatic anthemion corners and borders of stylized water lilies. In early Art Deco cufflinks, flowers and plants were rendered in stylized form. It was a movement away from the wild, untamed plants and vines celebrated in Art Nouveau and late Victorian designs. But as the Art Deco period progressed the stylized flora withered and were replaced by the abstract, more austere designs of the later Art Moderne.

Frank Krementz Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

One school of Art Deco design followed the motto "Leave no surface undecorated." This exuberant pair of Frank Krementz cufflinks illustrates the finesse with which Art Deco jewelers could work a profusion of decoration into a very small area. The centers feature dramatic sunrises bisected by bands of black enamel and white gold. Surrounding the central motif is an oval course of engraved yellow gold with mille grain edges. The cufflinks are finished with white gold borders of repeating sunrise motifs.

Ziething jazzy cufflinks, circa 1925.

A discussion of Jazz Age cufflinks would be remiss if it failed to mention the bright, glittering cuff jewels of Ziething & Company. Ziething created mesmerizing links engraved with an almost obsessive level of detail. The cufflinks are embellished with radiating starbursts, bold geometric patterns and intricate designs. Ziething cufflinks are particularly beautiful in the flickering light of a candle. The above pair was crafted in 10kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Dramatic black-and-white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Many Art Deco jewels featured vibrant gemstones or rich colored enamels. The tourmaline cufflinks illustrated at the beginning of this note are a wonderful example.

The late 1920s saw the rise to a second direction in Art Deco design. Striking jewels emphasizing contrasts between black and white captured the public eye. The above cufflinks feature labyrinth-like Chinese-key motifs highlighted against black enamel. The bright white gold centers are engraved with linear pinstripes. The black-and-white cufflinks of the 1930s are among the most sophisticated and elegant jewels of the era.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss cufflinks, circa 1925.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss was a prolific maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the 20th century. This pair of Art Deco links achieves a pleasing balance between the exuberant details of the Krementz and Ziething pictured above and the stark elegance of black-and-white designs. The hypnotic centers are surrounded by stippled borders, parallel curved lines and attenuated Chinese-key motifs in black enamel. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

"Architectural" cufflinks by William Huger, circa 1930.

In closing, I illustrate a pair of cufflinks from one of my favorite makers during the Art Deco era, William Huger & Company. The firm embraced the aesthetics of Art Deco design and created beautiful jewels of the cuff. The cufflinks are imbued with the same spirit that inspired America's largest contribution to Deco design - soaring, modern skyscrapers.

The above Huger white gold cufflinks feature stylized blossoms, geometric meanders and soaring pinstripe centers that bring to mind the Chrysler Building, Rockefeller Plaza and the other outsized icons of American Art Deco. The successful celebration of Art Deco in both the smallest and largest of objects is a witness to the styles nearly universal appeal.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-10-15T11:13:00.010-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Deco ovals by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss, beautiful blue guilloche enamels set in gold, Art Deco black-and-white cufflinks from Kohn & Company, and a jazzy pair of Ziething octagons.

Art Deco Ovals! Striking Art Deco cufflinks with a variety of design motifs ranging from hypnotic centers to the dramatic black enamel accents just inside gold dimpled borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Regal Blue! A regal pairing of blue and yellow. Elegant gold cufflinks with translucent blue enamels. Beneath the enamels is an intricate guilloche pattern of radiating stars or suns. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

In Black and White! Dramatic engraved pinstripes with contrasting black enamel bands and elegant Art Deco borders. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1930.

Jazzy Pizzazz! The word "pizzazz" could have been invented to describe these jazzy cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. during the Roaring 20s. The pair features dramatic star burst centers and elegant Art Deco borders. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1925

In addtion to the above cufflinks, I recently added a striking gargoyle
stick pin to the Antique Jewelry Gallery.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Kohn & Company Cufflinks

2010-09-30T11:39:00.009-04:00

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1925.

Kohn & Company Cufflinks

Last month I wrote about several cufflink makers about whom we know very little beyond the elegant cufflinks they created. This month's note features cufflinks from another "mystery maker", Kohn & Company.

Art Deco black and white cufflinks, circa 1930.

Kohn & Company created wonderful gold cufflinks that were designed with a touch of whimsy and fun. While the cufflinks created by firms like Carrington and Carter, Gough are stately in their elegance, the cufflinks of Kohn & Company are just as elegant, but with a lighter touch. I have to confess a fondness for the cufflinks of this firm.

Historical information about Kohn & Company is sketchy. The firm appears to have been founded in the early 1900s and ceased operations in the 1930s or early 1940s. Like many of the fine cufflink makers of the time, Kohn & Company was based in Newark, New Jersey.

White and yellow gold star burst cufflinks, circa 1925.

The firm created cufflinks and other jewels in 10kt and 14kt white and yellow gold. The cufflinks were sometimes set with small sapphires or diamonds. Dark enamels were also used to highlight the engraved designs and borders.

Radiant sapphire cufflinks, circa 1935.

The cufflinks reflect the broad currents of the Art Deco and Art Moderne design. Occasionally you will observe repeated geometric and linear patterns that are reminiscent of the earlier Arts & Crafts period. The style of the surviving cufflinks and the frequent use of white gold suggest that the firm began creating cufflinks around 1920.

Kohn & Company employed several maker's marks. On cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold the makers mark is a cone lying above a slanted "14K" gold purity mark. A variation of this mark has the gold mark "14K" placed inside the broad end of the cone.

On cufflinks crafted in 10kt gold the mark is the numeral "10" with a oversized "K" between the one and zero. The mark is usually found stamped on one side of the cross bars or on top of the quad brackets on 14kt gold pieces.

Please note, I have not found separate documentation of the 14kt mark shown above. I have attributed the mark to Kohn & Company based on its similarity to known Kohn marks and the shared styles of the cufflinks. This is an area for further research. I am interested in any thoughts from readers.

Kohn & Company cufflinks, circa 1930.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-09-15T10:03:00.010-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a flurry of striking white gold and platinum cufflinks and a dramtic pair of Art Nouveau cufflinks crafted in yellow gold.

Sapphire and Platinum! Elegantly engraved platinum cufflinks set with sparkling blue Sapphires. Beautifully engraved with C-scroll and foliate borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Dramatic Deco! Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic black enamel borders. A nice example of the dramatic black-and-white jewels of the late 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930

Whiplash Vines! Art Nouveau cufflinks of entangled vines with whiplash curves and dramatic foliage. A nice example of the striking, nature-inspired designs of the Art Nouveau era. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Anthemion Elegance! Dramatic anthemions (palmettes) and stylized water lilies grace the borders of these elegant cufflinks. An exotic garden or palace courtyard in miniature. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Diamond Marquise! Elegant marquise-shape cufflinks with dramatically engraved centers and small sparkling diamonds. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Platinum Octagon! Elegant platinum top cufflinks with engraved concentric circles and borders featuring alternate sections of tiered steps and foliate designs. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Mystery Makers

2010-08-31T10:08:00.032-04:00

"Winged Bridge" cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Mystery Makers

A wise philosopher once suggested that "True wisdom is knowing what you don't know." In this spirit, this month's note takes a look at three cufflink makers from the early 1900s about whom we know very little.

It is conservatively estimated that between 1870 and 1930 at least several hundred companies in the United States were involved in the creation of fine jewelry. No doubt, a good share of these firms offered cufflinks at one time or another. About some of these cufflink makers we know quite a bit (e.g., Krementz & Co. and Larter & Sons). But about others we know very little beyond the beautiful cufflinks and jewels they created. This note highlights three of these mysterious makers.

Wm. Huger & Company gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

William Huger & Company

Based on extant examples, William Huger & Company appears to have made striking cufflinks from the early 1900s until the 1930s. A patent issued in 1883 for a specialized jeweler's file indicates that William Huger was involved in the jewelry trade from at least the early 1880s. Beyond this our knowledge of the firm is limited to several listings in jewelry directories and trade journals.

William Huger Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

William Huger was not as prolific as some of the fine cufflink makers of the early 20th century (e.g., Carrington & Company and Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss). However what the firm lacked in size and numbers, it made up for with the beauty of its cufflinks. Among my favorite William Huger cufflinks are examples from the Art Deco era. The firm created bold geometrically-inspired cufflinks that are emblematic of the period. Two examples are illustrated here.

Architecturally-inspired William Huger cufflinks, circa 1930.

The paucity of information we have regarding William Huger & Co. is a veritable trove compared to what we know about the next cufflink maker.

Elegant "Winged Bridge" maker cufflinks, circa 1920.

The "Winged Bridge" Maker

During the 1920s an unknown jewelry maker created a desirable group of white and yellow gold cufflinks. The cufflinks feature dramatic Art Deco geometric and stylized borders crafted in white gold. The centers are usually yellow gold and beautifully engine turned with intricate designs. These miniature jewels sparkle with the exuberance of the Jazz Age.

The unknown maker of these cufflinks employed a distinctive bridge design. The bridges flair out like the wings of a fantastic bird. Hence the name "Winged Bridge Maker".

"Winged Bridge" maker, circa 1925.

Reverse of cufflinks by Winged Bridge maker.

Other than the winged bridges, there is no maker's mark or other indication of the creator of these cufflinks. The absence of a maker's mark is especially puzzling given the "14K" gold purity mark stamped on the bridges. In 1906, the National Stamping Act required that items stamped with a gold or silver purity mark should include a registered maker's mark. The mystery of the Winged Bridge cufflinks deepens.

"TH" maker cufflinks with anthemion corners, circa 1925.

The "TH" Maker

The third group of mystery cufflinks has a maker's mark, a "T" over an "H". The challenge is identifying the maker to whom this mark belongs. The cufflinks are crafted in the Art Deco style, ranging from the classically-inspired pair with anthemion corners pictured above to the black enamel and pinstripe ovals shown below. The cufflinks are crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold and date from the 1920s and 1930s. Some may also be from a later date.

Enamel and pinstripe "TH" cufflinks, circa 1925.

"TH" maker's mark.

The maker's mark (a "T" over an "H") is found stamped
on the cross bars above the gold purity mark ("14").

Distinctive brackets of "TH" cufflinks.

A second identifying characteristic of "TH" cufflinks are the distinctive brackets. Shaped somewhat like a bow tie, the brackets have an inner edge that is outlined with an incised channel. When the maker's mark is obscured, the distinctive brackets can aid in identification.

"TH" maker cufflinks, circa 1930.

Maybe the "TH" cufflinks are less of a mystery than I have suggested. I have a nagging suspicion that the maker of these cufflinks is already known and that to date I have been looking for answers in the wrong place. Any light you can shed on this and the other questions posed by this note is greatly appreciated.

Recent Additions

2010-08-15T13:44:00.013-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include a striking pair of Art Deco cufflinks featuring green tourmalines, elegant Carrington sapphire and diamond cufflinks, and two pairs of oval gold cufflinks with pinstripe centers.

Art Deco Green! Among the finest Art Deco cufflinks are those that combine bold, dramatic design with striking colored gemstones. These 14kt gold cufflinks set with intoxicating green Tourmalines are a wonderful example. Crafted by Larter & Sons, circa 1930.

Carrington Sapphire and Diamonds! Sapphires, diamonds and platinum sparkle in these lively cufflinks. Surrounded by elegant twist borders with millegrain edges. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Scrolls and Pinstripes! Exuberant Art Deco cufflinks with lively scroll borders and elegant pinstripe centers. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Golden Pinstripes! Elegant gold cufflinks with pinstripe centers surrounded by classic double-box-and-cross borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Additional photos of these and other fine antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Cufflinks in the Garden

2010-07-31T14:29:00.015-04:00

Larter & Sons grape vine cufflinks, circa 1900.

Cufflinks in the Garden

I have been enjoying a short, sporadic vacation recently, so this note may be a little disorganized and uncharacteristically brief. One of the areas neglected during my absence (besides blog posting) has been the garden. Despite the neglect, it has been a glorious season for the flowers with the Full Moon Coreopsis in full bloom and the Ruby Dwarf Helenium coming into its own. With the garden on my mind it is appropriate to post several pairs of antique cufflinks featuring flowers and plants.

Chrysanthemum and vine cufflinks, circa 1910.

A riot of wild chrysanthemums flourishes across these eight-sided cufflinks, a scene that recalls the Japanese woodcuts of the 1800s. The influence of Japanese art on Art Nouveau design can be seen in the flowing tendrils and vines that curl like wind-blown wisps of smoke between the flowers. Within the small area of the cufflinks (less than 5/8" across) I count eight blossoms in various stages of bloom. Created by United Jewelers in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Carrington rose and thistle cufflinks, circa 1920.

Carrington cufflinks with elegant rose and thistle borders. A client suggested that the rose-and-thistle motif may be a subtle celebration of Scottish-English unity, but I am inclined to believe that the design was chosen more for its beauty than any political allusion.

Initially, I described the centers of these cufflinks as radiant sunbursts. Now that I am in a floral frame of mind the centers appear more like dramatic flowers evocative of the stylized lotus blossoms and papyrus fronds of the Pharaohs or ancient India. Perhaps a reader with greater knowledge of the flora and iconography of the ancient world can shed some light. These eclectic cufflinks were crafted by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Larter & Sons 14kt gold acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1900.

In the early 1900s, the Newark-based jewelry firm, Larter & Sons, created a wonderful collection Art Nouveau inspired cufflinks. The entwining grape vine cufflinks at the top of this post are a nice example. The acanthus leaf cufflinks pictured here further illustrate the firm's ability to create dramatic cufflinks with flowing, organic designs. The acanthus leaves appear to be slowly encroaching across the gently domed surface of the cufflinks. Created by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Larter & Sons acanthus leaf cufflink, circa 1900.

To view these these and other fine antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-07-15T13:39:00.011-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery feature three striking Art Deco dress sets and an elegant pair of Larter cufflinks with flowing acanthus leaves.

Acanthus Leaf! Dramatic gold cufflinks with flowing acanthus leaves. A nice example of the flowing, natural curves favored in Art Nouveau design. Crafted by Larter & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Moderne! A striking full dress set with the elegant lines and geometry of the late Art Deco period. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Platinum & Onyx! An elegant black onyx full dress set with small white pearls. The interplay of black and white is accentuated by brilliant platinum borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Platinum & Pearl! A dramatic Art Deco full dress set that beautifully captures the elegance and sophistication of the era. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

2010-06-30T06:01:00.005-04:00

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

Durand Cufflinks: Artistry and Craftsmanship

Durand & Company was one of the leading American jewelry makers during the 19th and early 2oth centuries. Although the firm was founded in 1869, the Durand family traces its roots in jewelry and related arts to the pre-Revolutionary era.

Under the leadership of James M. Durand, the firm was renowned for beautiful design and technical innovation. The company was known as a creator of "only the exceptional in jewelry" and an importer of the finest gemstones. During its 75 years, Durand & Company executed many important one-of-a-kind commissions, while also providing cufflinks and other jewels to the finest retail jewelers of the day. At one time the firm was in partnership with Charles Lewis Tiffany.

The platinum and gold cufflinks illustrated above are a beautiful example of the classically inspired cufflinks created by Durand & Company in the early 1900s. The radiant gold centers are dramatically engraved with a repeated chevron pattern. A surrounding course of platinum is also intricately engraved and accented with gold Greek key motifs which form the outer edge of the cufflinks. The cufflinks were crafted in platinum and 14kt gold around 1910.

Durand & Company acanthus leaf cufflinks, circa 1910.

Pictured above is a second pair of Durand & Company cuff jewels from the early 1900s. This pair shares the overall design of the first, but substitutes dramatic encroaching acanthus leaves for the Greek key motifs. The use of acanthus leaves and Greek keys illustrates the influence of the Classic past on Durand & Company jewelry designs.

The beauty of the Durand cufflinks was matched by the care with which they were crafted. The backs of the cufflinks are brilliant with a mirror-like finish. The backs are almost as beautiful as the fronts.

Reverse of Durand & Company cufflinks.

Note the sturdy brackets and cross bars that secure the cufflinks on the cuff. The linkage was specially designed by the firm and protected with a patent for "improved cuff buttons" issued in 1908. The maker's mark for Durand & Company - a stylized "D" - is visible just to the left of the gold purity mark ("14K").

Below is the schematic from the 1908 patent. Each of the numerous numbered points indicates parts of the design where the firm took great care to assure that the design would be both convenient and safe. The goal was to create a cufflink that could be put on with minimum fuss, but would remain securely on the cuff.

Drawings from 1908 for improved cuff-button design.

A brief passage from the original patent illustrates the extent to which Durand & Company pursued the desiderata of convenience and safety.

The improved feature of the device [cufflinks] is the connection of the bar, connecting the plates, with the back of the plates so as to give a stronger structure, and also to provide one that makes the entrance of each end of the cuff-button, into its side of the cuff, more easy than in the old style of button, due to the structure of the lug [bracket], on the back of the plate ...

It is fair to say that no detail was considered too small when Durand & Company designed a pair of cufflinks.

Durand & Company platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

To view these these and other antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-06-15T22:08:00.003-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include an elegant Larter blue enamel and gold pair, striking Strobell & Crane sapphire and diamond cufflinks, late Victorian cufflinks reflecting the arabesque designs of Moorish Spain, and intricate Art Deco diamond cufflinks.

Infinite Squiggles! Elegant blue and gold cufflinks featuring an endless golden tangle of squiggles. A nice example of the dramatic, imaginative designs of the 1930s and '40s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Sapphire Elegance! The elegance of Sapphires and Diamonds set amid classic quatrefoils and sweeping garlands. A perfect marriage of classic and modern design. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1920.

Arabesque! Wonderful cufflinks reflecting the Victorian interest in the intricate arabesque designs of Moorish Spain and the Middle East. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Deco Diamonds! Antique white gold cufflinks featuring dramatic floral or cruciform motifs above a field of concentric circles. A nice example of the effusive Art Deco designs of the 1920s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

2010-05-31T13:19:00.013-04:00

Larter blue enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

Antique Cufflinks: Objects of Adornment

In several earlier posts, I discussed the artistry and history of antique cufflinks. This month's note is about cufflinks as objects of personal adornment. These three factors - Artistry, History and Adornment - in large part explain the irresistible attraction of antique cufflinks. Together they constitute the "AHA Effect."

The reasons individuals wear antique cufflinks are many. At the most rudimentary level cufflinks are functional - they hold a shirt cuff together. Beyond the utilitarian, a wearer may select a pair of antique cufflinks because he/she wishes to enjoy a miniature work of art and literally keep it close at hand. Another wearer may be motivated by a sense of history. While others may aspire to a public display of wealth.

Fortuitously, the designs of antique cufflinks are as diverse as the motives of those who wear them. The period from 1880 to 1950 saw the creation of cufflinks in many distinct styles, ranging from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Edwardian to Art Deco. Among antique cufflinks there is something to suit almost any taste.

This point is better illustrated with photographs than words. Below is a sampling of fine antique cufflinks from the 1890s until the 1940s. These cufflinks would beautifully adorn any cuff.

Striking guilloche enamel cufflinks with translucent purple enamel over an engine turned pattern of radiating ovals. A nice example of the beautifully crafted, bold designs created by Carrington & Co. during the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created around 1910 by one of the founding firm's of the American jewelry industry, Durand & Company.

A menagerie of mythological creatures and exotic animals inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with striking eagle-like features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

An exuberant pair of Art Deco cufflinks with radiant sunburst centers and black enamel accents. Engraved yellow and white gold borders complement the design with bold Art Deco motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

Wonderful white-on-white cufflinks featuring mother of pearl centers surrounded by elegantly scrolling white gold borders with a small pearl in the center. Crafted in 14kt gold , circa 1920.

The elegance of the Edwardian era sparkles in these platinum and diamond cufflinks. The soft engraving of the platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Beautifully crafted gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Late Victorian cufflinks with dramatic winged scarabs. A wonderful example of Egyptian Revival design from of the late 1800s. Antique cufflinks often reflect an enthusiasm to past periods and ancient civilizations. Created by Sloan & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1890

The curving, intertwining lines of ancient Celtic design inspired beautiful cuff jewels during the 19th century Celtic Revival. Another example, of the late Victorian interest in ancient cultures. These finely crafted cufflinks were created by George O. Street in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Beautiful Tiffany Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring Old European Cut diamonds and blue Sapphires set amid flowing, intertwining curves. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1900.

The above and many other fine cufflinks from the past can be
found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-05-15T20:51:00.000-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery feature an elegant pair of Durand platinum and gold cufflinks, beautiful Moss Agates from Carter, Howe & Company, sparkling Edwardian diamond and platinum cufflinks, and frosty white gold snowflakes.

Platinum and Gold! Beautifully designed platinum and gold cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and platinum borders with Greek or Chinese key accents. These elegant cufflinks were created by Durand & Company, circa 1910.

Moss Agate III Beautiful eight-sided Moss Agates set in bright yellow gold. Created by one of the premier makers of fine cufflinks during the early 1900s. Crafted in 14t gold, circa 1910.

Edwardian Elegance! Cushion-shape platinum top cufflinks that sparkle with the elegance of the Edwardian era. The softly engraved platinum shimmers like watered silk. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Intricately Engraved! Beautifully engraved white gold cufflinks with elegant scroll borders. The dramatic borders feature winged volutes and small flowers at each corner. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Moss Agate Cufflinks

2010-04-30T22:02:00.011-04:00

Carter, Howe Moss Agate Cufflinks, circa 1900.

Moss Agate Cufflinks

Over the last several weeks Spring has arrived in southern New Hampshire. The tulips are up, the lilacs are in bud and the wisteria is about to blossom. This explosion of color in the garden brings to mind one of my favorite gemstones found in antique cufflinks - Moss Agate.

Moss Agate is a beautiful variety of fine grained quartz shot through with green or earth-tone inclusions. This alluring gemstone is found in several flavors. Montana Moss Agate is a translucent milky white speckled with dark inclusions resembling small patches of moss or lichen. Another variety, Mocha Stone, was favored during the Victorian era. Mocha Stones were often set in cuff buttons and watch fobs and feature fantastic dendritic forms resembling the spreading branches of a miniature tree.

Carter, Howe Octagon Moss Agate Cufflinks, circa 1900.

However, the Moss Agates favored by cufflinks makers in the early 1900s are best described as "Seaweed" Agates. These beautiful gemstones have the mesmerizing appearance of green seaweed floating in a sunlit pool. When backed with mother-of-pearl or other white material and set in yellow gold, the effect is striking.

Carter, Howe Moss Agate Cufflinks, circa 1900.

Among the premier makers of elegant cufflinks and dress sets in the early 1900s was Carter, Howe & Company (Carter, Gough & Company after 1915). The firm created a dazzling array of cufflinks and dress sets featuring Moss Agates set in 14kt gold. Pictured above are several fine examples.

In the early 1900s, the firm appears to have specialized in creating fine cufflinks featuring unusual gemstones. Examples can be found set with Bloodstones, Onyx, Moonstones and other exotic gems. These lesser known gemstones were sometimes erroneously referred to as "semi-precious gems" - a misnomer belied by the beauty of the cufflinks in which they were set.

S&N Moss Agate Cufflinks, circa 1920.

Another firm that worked with gemstones beyond the traditional sapphires and diamonds was Sansbury & Nellis (S&N). Like many of the fine cufflink and jewelry makers of the day (including Carter, Howe), Sansbury & Nellis was based in Newark, New Jersey. From the style of its cufflinks and notices in the trade press, the firm appears to have operated from about 1900 until the 1930s. Pictured above is a beautiful pair of Sansbury & Nellis cufflinks featuring oval Seaweed Agates. The gemstones have nicely bevelled edges and are set in bright yellow gold. A nice example of the firm's work.

To view these and other beautiful antique cufflinks
please visit Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-04-15T19:11:00.012-04:00

Recent additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery include ferocious winged lions, beautiful Moss Agates from Sansbury & Nellis, elegant onyx and gold octagons, and jazzy white and yellow gold cufflinks by Ziething.

Roaring Lions! A menagerie of mythological and exotic creatures inhabit antique cufflinks. These cufflinks feature a roaring lion with avian features. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Moss Agate II Beautiful antique cufflinks featuring fine Moss Agates with the appearence of dark green seaweed floating in sunlit water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Elegant Onyx! Some of the most elegant cufflink designs are the simplest. This pair of antique cufflinks features creamy black onyx set in octagonal yellow gold frames. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Golden Ovals! Jazzy white and yellow gold cufflinks featuring radiant yellow gold centers surrounded by dramatically engraved white gold borders. A beautiful example of jazzy Art Deco design. Created by Ziething & Company in 10kt gold, circa 1925.

Additional photos and details of these and other antique cufflinks,
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks: Windows to the Past

2010-03-31T16:52:00.008-04:00

Art Nouveau cufflink, circa 1900.

Antique Cufflinks:
Windows to the Past

Several months ago I wrote about the artistry of antique cufflinks. The beauty and design of antique cufflinks are undeniably captivating. History, along with adornment, are also factors that draw one to these miniature jewels from the past. These three factors - Art, History and Adornment - largely explain the pleasant surprise (the"AHA effect") experienced by many when first viewing antique cufflinks. Today I will briefly discuss the historic appeal of antique cufflinks.

Antique cufflinks are windows into the past. They are miniature links to the past that reflect not just earlier fashions and tastes, but the enthusiasms and aspirations of the people who wore them. Consider the exotic mysticism of the Art Nouveau cufflinks pictured above. Or, the jazzy elegance of the brightly engraved cufflinks from the 1920s shown below. Each wonderfully captures the the spirit, the zeitgeist of its era.

Jazzy Ziething white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

In addition to reflecting the spirit of an age, antique cufflinks often celebrated significant personal and public events in the life of the wearer. Appropriately known as "commemoratives," these cufflinks recorded events in the nation's history, important graduations and reunions, and corporate milestones. Often the commemorated event is easily recognized. Sometimes it remains shrouded in mystery.

Commemorative cufflinks, circa 1915.

Pictured above is a silver-gilt cufflink featuring an impish fellow crowned with a laurel wreath. A scroll marked "degree" or "decree" is supported by his left hand. In his right hand he holds a long staff and his shirt is emblazoned with "99". The left border of the cufflinks is annotated "QUINDECENNIAL" signifying the 15th anniversary of an important event. What the important event was I have not been able to determine. Any thoughts?

Masonic cufflinks, circa 1880.

Closely related to commemorative cufflinks are links that signified the wearer's membership in a fraternal or social organization. In the late 19th and early 20th century there was a blossoming in clubs, lodges, granges and civic organizations. America was a nation of joiners and membership in a fraternal or social organization was often announced with a pair of suitably adorned cufflinks. Judging from the numerous examples of elegant Masonic cufflinks that survive, it is reasonable to surmise that the Masons were fervid cufflink wearers. Pictured above is a wonderfully designed and engraved pair of Masonic cufflinks from the late 1800s.

Link & Angell dramatically engine-turned cufflinks.

Although the beauty and design of antique cufflinks is what first catches the eye, I am equally intrigued with the people who made and wore the cufflinks. The backs of cufflinks often provide a wealth of helpful clues. Above is a cufflink beautifully engine-turned in a radial barley corn pattern. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, the cufflink dates from the early decades of the last century.

Reverse of Link & Angell cufflinks.

Examining the reverse of the cufflink helps tell its story. The cufflinks were given in 1919 as a Christmas gift to "S.C.F." (the "F" is obscured by the cross bar). Although SCF remains anonymous to us, the personal inscription on the back of the cufflinks creates a tangible link to the past. No doubt, on a Christmas morning ninety years ago SCF delighted in the beauty of the cufflinks as much as we do today.

Close-up maker's mark.

A close examination of the cross bar reveals more clues to the cufflink's history. The cross bar is stamped "14K" for the purity of the gold. Beneath the gold mark is a maker's mark. Although the lower half of the mark is lost at the edge of the cross bar, it can be read as the maker's mark of the firm Link & Angell. The mark is an "L", "&" and "A" suitably connected by three links.

Founded by William Link in 1871, the firm under several names created elegant cufflinks and beautiful jewels for six decades. The Art Nouveau cufflinks pictured at the beginning of this note are also an example of the firm's work. William Link died in 1911 and the firm continued under outside management for several decades. The firm appears to have discontinued operations during the Great Depression.

A wonderful reference, if you wish to learn more about Link & Angell and other makers of American cufflinks is "The Glitter and the Gold: The Fashioning of American Jewelry" edited by Ulysses Grant Dietz. The book is a delight to read and an invaluable resource.

To view the above and other antique cufflinks,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Recent Additions

2010-03-15T15:51:00.010-04:00

Recently several clients asked if I could provide notices of new additions to the Antique Cufflink Gallery. This is a good idea. So, every few weeks I will post a summary of recent acquisitions.

This first installment features a striking pair of Larter serpent cufflinks, Carrington cufflinks in the Art & Crafts style, and jazzy sapphire and diamond cufflinks from the 1920s.

Victorian Serpents! The Victorians were fascinated with serpents, bugs and other crawling things. These cufflinks are a dramatic example of snake-inspired jewelry from the late Victorian period. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Arts & Crafts! Beautifully crafted cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts style from Carrington & Co. The hand-hammered gold surfaces shimmer like sunlight sparkling on a gently rippling pool of water. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Sapphires and Diamonds! Beautiful cufflinks with blue Sapphires and sparkling white Diamonds. Dramatically engraved with radiating centers and jazzy zig-zag borders. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

For additional information on these and other antique cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Inclement Weather

2010-02-28T10:42:00.008-05:00

Krementz Art Nouveau cufflinks, circa 1900

Inclement Weather

Due to a recent late winter storm we have been off line for several days. I will be adding further posts on antique and estate cufflinks in the next several weeks.

Meanwhile, above is a beautiful Art Nouveau cufflink depicting a more serene, warmer scene. Crafted by Krementz & Co. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

The Artistry of Antique Cufflinks

2010-01-31T22:08:00.011-05:00

Egyptian Revival cufflink, circa 1890.

The Artistry of Antique Cufflinks

Every so often I am asked to explain the allure of antique cufflinks. What sparks the enthusiasm for these diminutive jewels from the past? What makes an attractive pair of cufflinks irresistible? In my experience three factors contribute to the appeal of antique cufflinks - Art, History and Adornment. Collectively, these three factors - Art, History and Adornment - can be referred to as the "AHA effect".

Over the next several months I hope to discuss the factors that make up the AHA effect. Today I will focus on the first factor ... the artistry of antique cufflinks.

Art Nouveau cufflink, circa 1900

A colleague of mine describes and displays his antique cufflinks as miniature works of sculpture. He refers to this array of cuff jewels as "the sculpture garden." I am certain many cufflink collectors and admirers (myself included) feel the same way.

Intricate Scroll cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

What initially attracts me to a pair of cufflinks is the beauty of the design and artistry of the workmanship. Assessing period, materials, maker and other interesting details takes second place to just viewing and enjoying the cufflinks as miniature works of art. A few of the miniature masterpieces that we have had the pleasure of working with in the gallery illustrate this note.

Jazzy spiral and scroll cufflinks, circa 1920.

The artistic ferment of the late 19th and early 20th century gave rise to a profusion of artistic directions and philosophies. Each influenced jewelry and cufflink design. In the first half of the 20th century, cufflink styles ranged from the historic revivals and enthusiastic eclecticism of the Victorian era to the Art Deco and Moderne designs of the 1930s and 1940s. Examples also reflect the visions of Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts and Edwardian jewelers who enjoyed periods of ascendancy.

Striking Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1925.

The great diversity of cufflinks from the past assures that there is always a pair to suit almost any taste . There is always something new to discover and delight in. After years of collecting and trading, I still come across unexpected designs and enjoy the excitement of examining a beautiful pair of vintage cufflinks for the first time.

Carrington cufflinks anticipating the Op Art of the 1960s.

Additional photos and details of the cufflinks illustrated above
can be found in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-12-31T14:53:00.015-05:00

Happy New Year!

With the end of the year rapidly approaching Judi and I would like to thank everyone with whom we have shared, researched, traded and, most importantly, admired vintage cufflinks. Over the past year we have had the pleasure of working with friends, clients and cufflink lovers throughout the United States and in many countries around the world.

In fact, we recently passed an milestone of sorts. With a flurry of business from Australia, we have now worked with clients on every continent except Antarctica. If only the penguins would adorn their feathery tuxedos with vintage dress sets! We would have every continent covered!

Over the past few days I have made several attempts to organize my perpetually cluttered desk. In so doing I came across notes I made several years ago about a house Charles Carrington built in the 1880s. Since the holidays are a wonderful time to enjoy beautiful Victorian homes, I will finish the year with ....

The House Carrington Built

Locating and researching antique cufflinks takes you in many directions. Often you follow an unpromising lead or stray clue with surprising results. The following architect's rendering is one such discovery.

Please click the above rendering for a larger view.

The rendering is of a house built by Charles L. Carrington in 1885. I believe, but have not substantiated, that this is the same Charles Carrington who in 1891 formed a partnership with Alfred Mayhew for the manufacture and sale of fine jewelry. In 1900 this firm became Carrington & Company. As faithful readers of this blog and visitors to the Antique Cufflink Gallery are aware I have a great fondness for the cufflinks and dress sets created by Carrington & Company.

The plan was published in the August, 1885 edition of the American Architects and Building News. An accompanying paragraph notes:

House for Mr. Charles L. Carrington, Newark, N.J.
Mr. Van Campen Taylor Architect

The house is now in course of erection on one of the principal residence streets of the city. The first story will be built of North River brick, laid in red mortar, with Belleville stone trimmings. The second story, etc., will be of frame shingled with cedar shingles. The roof will be slated. The interior will be finished with painted walls, tiled fireplaces and hard-wood stairs and mantels. The cost will be about $12,000.

It is clear Mr. Carrington was quite successful even before the founding of Carrington & Company. The care and quality that he brought to making Carrington cufflinks is also evident in the house he built.

Judi and I hope everyone enjoys a peaceful and joyous New Year!

2009-11-30T11:45:00.004-05:00

Art Deco white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflake Cufflinks

Several nights ago a few isolated snowflakes fell as I was walking the dog. Meanwhile, the constellation Orion was peaking up over the horizon. All signs of winter. It is once again time to celebrate the coming season with a flurry of snowflake cufflinks.

The term "snowflake" is commonly used to describe white gold or platinum cufflinks that shimmer with exuberantly engraved designs. Particularly popular in the decades around 1920, these sparkling cuff jewels capture the light hearted, optimistic spirit of the age. The variety of intricately engraved patterns that decorate snowflake cufflinks is phenomenal, almost as varied and unique as natural snowflakes. The dramatic white gold Art Deco cufflinks pictured above are a nice example.

Here are a few more snowflakes that recently blew into the gallery ...

WAB jazzy spiral and scroll cufflinks, circa 1920.

Wordley, Allsop & Bliss was one of the more prolific makers of fine cufflinks from the firm's founding in 1907 until the 1930s. WAB and its successor firms created cufflinks ranging in style from late Victorian to late Art Deco Moderne. These white gold cufflinks from the early 1920s feature jagged spiral centers surrounded by richly scrolling borders. They reflect the early Art Deco preoccupation with leaving no surface undecorated.

Link & Angell barley turned cufflinks, circa 1920.

Link & Angell was another maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. These beautifully engine turned cufflinks are decorated in a pattern known as "barleycorn". The repeated, petal-like design and the frostiness of the white gold, inspired us to nickname these cufflinks "Winter Rose". Crafted in 14kt gold around 1920.

Wintry Art Deco diamond cufflinks, circa 1925.

These frosty white gold cufflinks always remind me of a field of freshly fallen snow in the winter moonlight. The shimmering white of the the gold and richly detailed engraving give the cufflinks a sparkling, almost crystalline appearance. A small diamond set in a navette setting adds to the wintery brilliance. Crafted in 14kt white gold around 1925.

Ziething "Radiating Wave" cufflinks, circa 1925.

The word "pizazz" could have been invented to describe the jazzy cufflinks created by Ziething & Co. during the 1920s. The firm excelled at creating dramatically engraved cufflinks that seem to radiate, not just reflect, light. This pair with radiating wave-like centers surrounded by dramatic track borders is a beautiful example. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1925.

To view these snowflake cufflinks and other elegant cufflinks,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-10-30T17:26:00.008-04:00

George O. Street Cufflinks

George W. Street, circa 1900

A great variety of fine cufflinks were created in the decades near 1900. Styles ranged from Victorian to Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts to Art Deco. One of the firms contributing to the melange of miniature cuff masterpieces was George O. Street & Sons.

In 1837 George Street established one of the first jewelry manufacturers in the United States. Located in lower Manhattan the firm created gold rings, seals, watch fobs and other jewels for the carriage-trade jewelers of the day, including Tiffany & Company. In 1892 George Street retired to the family manse in Great Barrington, Massachusetts and passed leadership of the firm to his son George W. Street (pictured above). The firm remained in business until about 1950. Of particular interest are the beautiful gold cufflinks created under the leadership of the founder's son in the years around 1900.

George O. Street Celtic Revival cufflinks, circa 1900.

George O. Street cufflinks are miniature works of art finely crafted in gold. The firm's artists and craftsmen excelled at exploiting golds sculptural potential, creating gold cufflinks with dramatic shapes, intricate designs, and subtle textures. The gold was an integral part of the design - not just a bright setting for gemstones or a shiny surface to be elaborately engraved.

The above Celtic Revival cufflinks featuring intricately interwoven knotwork (plaits) are a wonderful example. The endless knots fill the inner borders of the cufflinks and encircle raised oblong centers of brightly polished gold. The subtle texture of the plaits and the natural patina of the precious metal throw the design into dramatic relief. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

George O. Street Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

The Puritan settlers of the New Haven Colony were among the Street family's ancestors. No doubt their rigid sense of probity would have been offended by these Art Nouveau cufflinks created 250 years later by George O. Street & Sons. America had come a long way since the 1600s.

Close-up of "Nymph in Waves" cufflink.

Ocean nymphs enveloped in crashing waves and frothy seas were a classic Art Nouveau theme. Sometimes referred to as "Nymph in the Waves" or on the west coast "Surfs up, Nude", the risque scene was favored by makers and wearers of gentlemen's jewelry and accesories. These dramatic cufflinks beautifully illustrate the firm's ability to work with gold to create richly detailed miniature works of sculpture. The result is astounding when you consider that the cufflinks measure less than an inch across.

George O. Street Onyx and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1900

An example of the free flowing, organic forms of American Art Nouveau, the above cufflinks mysteriously glow with dark Onyx centers surrounded by undulating, spiraling gold borders. The upper surface of the gold is engraved with a subtle bark or snakeskin-like pattern. The contrast between the dark Onyx and warmth of the gold is heightened by the natural patination of the gold. For some reason, these cufflinks always remind me of a dark night sky lit by a few sparkling stars.

American Art Nouveau design was strongly influenced by Louis Comfort Tiffany, son of the founder of Tiffany & Company (another firm founded in 1837). George O. Street & Sons was a provider of gold rings and other jewels to Tiffany & Company. Although Tiffany & Company created its own cufflinks, the firm also retailed cufflinks from other noted makers of the day - including Carrington and Krementz. I suspect that George O. Street & Sons also provided cufflinks to Tiffany & Company. An interesting area of further research is the shared history of the two firms and possible interactions between the sons of the founders.

Reverse of George O. Street Cufflinks, circa 1900

George O. Street & Sons created beautiful jewelry and cufflinks from 1837 to about 1950. During that period the maker's mark of the firm was an "S" encircled in an oval. Found on the reverse of the cufflinks, the maker's mark preceded, or sometimes split, the gold purity mark.

George Street Maker's Mark.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-09-30T16:56:00.008-04:00

American Art Nouveau Cufflinks

Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

In the decade before 1900 exceptional artist jewelers sought a break with the traditions of the past. Finding inspiration in nature, distant cultures, and their own fertile imaginations, these innovative jewelers created stunning jewels that were known collectively as the "Art Nouveau."

Different nations contributed unique interpretations to the Art Nouveau style. In France artists like Rene Lalique created jewels with fantastic woman-insect hybrids and other exotic forms. In Germany the new art found expression in the sinuous, tendril-like curves of the Jugendstil ("youth style"). And in Great Britain Art Nouveau jewels and objects reflecting elements of Celtic and Arts & Crafts design were created by Archibald Knox for Liberty & Co.

Krementz Art Nouveau Cufflinks, circa 1900

In America jewelry and cufflink makers were quick to follow the emerging fashions in Europe. Krementz & Company was an early adopter of the the Art Nouveau style. The above Krementz cufflinks recall the flowing curves of the German Jugenstil and the dramatic illustrations of the British artist Aubrey Beardsley. At the top of this note is a beautiful pair of Link & Angell cufflinks likely inspired by the exotic Art Nouveau jewels created in France and the posters of Alphonse Mucha. The face and cascading hair of the woman are enveloped in the narcotic vapors of a poppy flower - a classic Art Nouveau motif.

Tiffany & Co. Sapphire and Diamond Cufflinks circa 1900

However, Amercian Art Nouveau cufflinks did not just imitate of the latest European fashions. A unique style of Art Nouveau emerged in the United States. Louis Comfort Tiffany (son of the founder of Tiffany & Company) was a leading proponent of Art Nouveau design. Inspired by trips to Europe and participation in international exhibitions, he contributed a distinct American Art Nouveau style - one emphasizing nature and the imagination.

The above cufflinks created by Tiffany & Company are a wonderful example. The flowing, rich curves and organic forms of the cufflinks have the appearance of seaweed or aquatic plants floating serenely in the water. Voluptuous, flowing curves and tight swirls are emblematic of American Art Nouveau design.

George Street Onyx and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1900

A second pair of American Art Nouveau cufflinks featuring gently flowing borders with tight swirls. The gold borders are subtly textured to create a vine-like, or possibly reptilian, appearance. The swirls at each corner are reminiscent of shimmering stars on a slightly overcast or foggy night. The overall organic shape and drama of the borders is heightened by black Onyx centers and the natural patination of the gold. Created by George O. Street & Sons in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Tiffany's work with art glass undoubtedly influenced his approach to Art Nouveau design. Indeed, the design of many American Art Nouveau jewels show a strong affinity with the voluptuous curves and curls that Tiffany created in glass. The Favrile glass punch bowl exhibited by Tiffany at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 is a wonderful example.

The affinity between the jewels and the art glass of the period is not surprising. One of the tenets of Art Nouveau design was to create a unified environment in which all elements - architecture, furniture, decoration, objets d'art and jewelry - followed consistent design principles and themes. A movement away from the cluttered eclecticism of the Victorian era.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-08-31T16:42:00.007-04:00

Guilloche Enamel Cufflinks

Carrington & Co. purple guilloche enamel cufflinks.

Among the rarities in the world of antique cufflinks are gold cufflinks decorated with guilloche enamel. In part the rarity stems from the expertise and time needed to craft these glittering masterpieces. As a result, relatively few were created. Also, over the years the broad enamel surfaces were susceptible to wear and scratches. So, even fewer pairs have survived. The purple and white enamel cufflinks pictured above are a fine example of guilloche enameling. They were crafted by Carrington & Company in 14kt gold around 1920.

Guilloche enamel brings together two ancient and exacting arts - enameling and engine turning. Enameling is the art of fusing powdered glass on metal to create a hard, vitreous surface. The glass can be clear or colored, transparent or opaque. Examples of enameled jewels have been found among the ruins of the ancient Mycenaean civilization on Cyprus. The ornaments (sorry, no cufflinks) date from the 13th century BC.

Link & Angell dramatically engine-turned cufflinks.

Engine turning (or guilloche) is the art of engraving intricate, repeating patterns on a metal or ivory surface. The common guilloche designs include radiating stars, wavy lines, intricate spirals and concentric circles, ovals and other figures. The Link & Angell cufflinks pictured above are a nice example of the engine turners art. These cufflinks are named "Winter Rose" because of the beautiful radiating petal-like pattern and frostiness of the white gold. They were crafted in 14kt gold around 1920.

When an engine turned surface is covered with a layer of transparent colored enamel (i.e., guilloche enameling) magic occurs. The colored enamel pools in the valleys of the engraved lines adding rich color where the engraving is deepest. Subtle gradations in the intensity of the color highlights the design and throws the pattern into almost three dimensional relief. The effect is mesmerizing.

Carrington blue-gray guilloche enamel cufflinks, circa 1910.

The enthusiasm for guilloche enameling during the late 19th and early 20th century was sparked by the creations of the master Russian jeweler Peter Carl Faberge. Faberge and his workmasters created a dazzling array of enameled jewels and objets d'art. In doing so they elevated the arts of engine turning and enameling to new heights. Among Faberge's many enameled creations were cufflinks, desk accessories and the famous Faberge Easter Eggs.

The above Carrington cufflinks may have been inspired by Faberge's work. The subdued blue-gray enamel and classic canted-corner shape of the cufflinks recalls the elegant jewels of the Russian master. They illustrate the simple, elegant designs favored by Carrington & Co. and the firm's uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

William Huger blue guilloche enamel and gold cufflinks.

Equal to Carrington & Co. in creating beautiful guilloche enamel cufflinks was William Huger & Company. Of the two firms Carrington was the more prolific. But what Huger lacked in numbers the firm made up for with the beauty of its cufflinks.

The above Huger cufflinks feature light blue enamel over an intricately engine-turned pattern. The guilloche design brings to mind the fanned tail of a peacock. When wedded with the blue enamel the effect is like exploding blue fire works in a clear evening sky. The enamel centers are framed with gold borders of foliate and geometric scrolls. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-07-31T19:20:00.016-04:00

Curvaceous Cufflinks

Sapphire and entwined heart cufflinks, circa 1900.

In the years around 1900 cufflinks and jewelry took a new turn. In fact, cufflink designs took a great many turns as fin de siecle jewelers and jewelry lovers embraced sinuous, intertwining curves. The dramatic whiplash curves of Art Nouveau designs, the intricate interwoven curves of ancient Celtic art, and sinuous serpents and flowering vines can all be found embellishing cufflinks of the period. A few of these curvaceous cufflinks are illustrated below.

Late Victorian serpent and vine cufflinks.

Sinuous entwined snakes and clematis vines decorate these late Victorian cufflinks. The Victorians loved jewels with hidden message and secret meanings. Intertwined or coiled snakes were considered a symbol of good fortune and eternal love. Clematis was a symbol for ingenuity. Perhaps the secret message of these cufflinks is that a long relationship or marriage takes both luck and ingenuity. Crafted in 14kt gold by Krementz & Company, circa 1890.

Celtic Revival cufflinks crafted in 14kt gold.

In addition to nature - snakes and vines - Victorian jewelers also drew inspiration from ancient civilizations and past cultures. Often sparked by archaeological discoveries, the Victorians enjoyed a seemingly endless parade of Egyptian, Classic, Etruscan, Roman, Viking, Celtic, Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance Revivals.

In the 1890s Archibald Knox working with Liberty & Company drew upon the intricate curvilinear designs of ancient Ireland. Knox's work inspired other designers and blossomed into the Celtic Revival. Beautiful jewels and objects were inspired by the interlaced motifs of the ancient Celts. The cufflinks illustrated above are a wonderful example. Crafted in 14kt gold by George Street & Sons, circa 1900.

Krementz & C0. Art Nouveau cufflinks.

Art Nouveau design could be described as curves unbound. While Art Nouveau jewelers also found inspiration in the sinuous forms of nature, they added imagination and fantasy to create never-before-seen jewels. The bold, exotic curves of Art Nouveau jewels are less restrained and more free flowing than in jewels of the late Victorian period.

The above cufflinks, created by Krementz & Co. around 1900, illustrate the new taste for dramatic curves and asymmetric design. Krementz was one of the leaders in introducing Art Nouveau design to the United States. You can find more about Krementz and the Art Nouveau in my earlier post Art Nouveau Cufflinks

To view these and other cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflinks Gallery.

2009-06-30T14:22:00.004-04:00

Gold Rush Cufflinks

Victorian quartz-in-gold cuff buttons, circa 1860.

One of the earliest distinctly American styles of jewelry was inspired by the discovery of gold in California in 1849. Imaginative San Francisco jewelers, among them Barrett & Sherwood and George Shreve & Company, worked with small pieces of quartz laced with veins of gold to create striking rings, watch cases, brooches and other jewels.

Gold veined quartz set in gold cuff buttons.

In 1853, Barrett & Sherwood displayed these "gold quartz" jewels at the Crystal Palace Exhibition in New York. The sparkling creations garnered great interest and gold-in-quartz jewelry evolved from a regional novelty to a national enthusiasm.

The Victorian cuff buttons pictured above are a wonderful example. Each cuff button features small rectangles of rose and white gold-bearing quartz set at an angle like the covers of an open book. Bold golden domes engraved with radiating lines and repeated chevrons form the ends. The cufflinks were crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1860.

Beautifully crafted reverse of gold-in-quartz cufflinks.

Prior to 1900 cufflinks were often described as cuff or sleeve buttons. The cufflinks attached to the cuff with fixed posts and round button-like backs. Inventive jewelers often set the button backs on hinges so they could be more easily inserted through the cuff. This style of cufflink was largely superseded by various "bean back" designs and British double-sided links that became increasingly popular around the turn of the century.

The reverse of these gold-in-quartz cufflinks illustrates the care with which they were crafted. The backs are closed with a gold plate that protects the gold-in-quartz specimens and adds strength to the design. The surfaces are beautifully polished and finished. Often with antique cufflinks the backs are as interesting as the fronts!

To view these and other cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflinks Gallery.

2009-05-25T20:17:00.011-04:00

Carrington & Company Platinum and Pearl Shirt Studs, circa 1925.

The Mystery of the Missing
Shirt Studs

Antique dress sets often include only two or three shirt studs. In contrast, modern dress shirts usually require four studs. The natural question is "What happened to the missing studs?"

Undoubtedly some shirt studs have been lost over the years, others damaged and maybe some even repurposed as earrings or other jewels. But the mystery of the missing shirt studs is best explained by the evolution of the dress shirt over the past century and a half.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Shirt Stud, circa 1925.

During the Victorian era dress shirts were a pullover style - somewhat like a golf or rugby shirt but with a detachable collar. The shirts did not have fully buttoned fronts, but instead were closed with just one or two buttons near the neck. As a result, often only two shirt studs were included in 19th century dress sets. Of course, the Victorians had other bits of paraphernalia to worry about, like collar buttons to secure those detachable collars.

Carrington & Co. Sapphire and Gold Shirt Studs, circa 1945.

With the dawn of the 20th century fully buttoned dress shirts became the fashion and additional shirt studs were required. During the first half of the century formal dress included a waistcoat (vest) or, after its introduction by British military officers returning from India, a cummerbund. Three shirt studs sufficed to close the shirt front. During the first half of the century most dress sets included this number. The stud sets illustrated in this note are largely from this period.

Carter, Howe Enamel and Gold Shirt Studs, circa 1910.

After World War II, the definition of formal attire continued to evolve. With changing times and social mores, tuxedos were increasingly worn without a waistcoat or cummerbund. The more fully exposed shirt front resulted in an additional stud being needed. Thus, contemporary dress sets include four shirt studs.

Larter & Sons Dark Abalone and Gold Shirt Studs, circa 1925.

Having addressed the mystery of the "missing" shirt studs, the question remains "How do you wear an antique dress set with a modern dress shirt?" There are several workable solutions.

1. Employ a discreet mother of pearl or matching stud to secure the lowest button hole of the shirt and, of course, keep your jacket buttoned.

2. Have a dress shirt custom made to accept three shirt studs. Not a bad way to complement your investment in an antique dress set.

3. Adopt either of the above solutions and wear a waistcoat or cummerbund. Being somewhat of a traditionalist this is my preferred approach.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Sapphire Dress Set, circa 1925.

To view antique cufflinks and dress sets from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflinks Gallery.

2009-04-30T23:26:00.012-04:00

Antique Dress Sets

Carrington Onyx and Pearl Dress Set, circa 1925.

In 1946 Fred Astaire performed Irving Berlin's classic tune "Puttin' on the Ritz" in the movie "Blue Skies." The performance beautifully captured the elegant fashion sense of the times and was an instant hit. Who can resist singing along to:

Dressed up like a million dollar trouper
Trying hard to look like Gary Cooper
Super duper!

This enthusiastic sense of style is reflected in the elegant dress sets and cufflinks of the period.

The Carrington black-and-white dress set pictured above is a good example. It radiates sophisticated elegance. The black Onyx tops are set with small white Pearls and surrounded by richly engraved platinum borders. Created around 1925, the set was originally purchased at Tiffany's.

Carrington Mother-of-Pear and Pearl Dress Set, circa 1930.

Carrington & Company was a maker of beautiful cufflinks, dress sets and other fine jewels during the first half of the 20th century. These white-on-white cufflinks feature Mother-of-Pearl centered with a small white Pearl. The platinum borders are embellished with a repeated geometric pattern in the Art Deco style. Another example of Carrington's elegant, sophisticated designs. The cufflinks were sold en suite with a matching set of shirt studs.

Garrigus Onyx and Pearl Dress Set, circa 1930.

This pair of Onyx and Pearl cufflinks exemplifies the simple elegance of Art Deco design. With matching shirt studs and vest buttons, the elegant ensemble is perfect for a night at the opera. Crafted in platinum and gold, the dress set was created by L.E. Garrigus & Company around 1930.

During the early 20th century, dress sets often followed the etiquette of black and white tie attire. Black Onyx or creamy white Mother-of-Pearl were often accented with small pearls or diamonds. The preferred precious metals were platinum and yellow gold.

Carter, Howe Moss Agate Dress Set, circa 1900.

But, dress sets were not just a matter of black and white. The cufflinks above are from a full dress set created by the jewelry firm Carter, Howe & Company in the early 1900s. The set features beautiful Moss Agates set in bright yellow gold. Carter, Howe created arresting dress sets and cufflinks with unusual gemstones, enamel accents and striking designs. While Carrington dress sets exude formal elegance, Carter, Howe dress sets embrace elegance with a little pizazz.

Carter, Howe Enamel and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1910.

Another example of Carter, Howe design. These cuff links and matching shirt studs (see photograph below) feature Mother-of-Pearl centers and dramatic borders of white enamel and yellow gold. Carter, Howe and the successor firm Carter, Gough excelled at creating imaginative designs and worked in a multitude of styles that appeal to both the collector and admirer of estate cufflinks and dress sets. What better way to look just like Gary Cooper. Super duper!

Carter, Howe Enamel and Gold Shirt Studs, circa 1910.

To view these and other dress sets from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflinks Gallery.

2009-03-26T08:41:00.013-04:00

Antique Diamond Cufflinks

Carrington sparkling diamond cufflinks, circa 1920.

In 1922 Emily Post, the Empress of Etiquette, advised aspiring gentlemen to "let diamonds be conspicuous by their absence." She went on to admonish that "Nothing is more vulgar than a display of 'ice' on a man’s shirt front, or on his fingers." While the excesses of Diamond Jim Brady might best be avoided, Mrs. Post's writings largely reflected the sensibilities of an earlier age.

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss gold and diamond cufflinks, circa 1920.

During the 1920s, cufflink makers and their fashionable clients ignored Mrs. Post's advice. We are lucky they did. Some of the finest cufflinks and dress sets from the period were set with sparkling diamonds. Pictured above are examples from Carrington & Company and Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Jazzy Art Deco cufflinks with diamonds, circa 1925.

Diamonds were often paired with platinum or white gold. The above jazzy cufflinks are a nice example of the bold, energetic designs embraced in the Art Deco period. They are crafted in white gold with radiating, engine-turned centers and bold, geometric Art Deco borders. Each cufflink sparkles with a small diamond set on one side.

These cufflinks were created during the 1920s or 1930s by an unknown maker. The mystery jeweler has been dubbed the "Winged Bridge Maker" because of the distinctive flared bridges employed to connect the two sides of the cufflinks. For more about this mystery maker and other examples of his work, see my posts from July of last year.

Diamond and Sapphire cufflinks in platinum and gold, circa 1920.

A colorful variation on the theme of diamond cufflinks were cufflinks set with diamonds on one side and sapphires on the other. Sometimes called "Night and Day" cufflinks, these two-sided cuff jewels were perhaps a nod to the Victorian ritual of wearing diamonds only after dark. The two-sided cufflinks allowed a wearer to display sapphires during the day and diamonds at night.

In the Roaring Twenties, as social customs evolved, these versatile cufflinks more likely allowed the wearer to jazz up their wardrobe with either diamonds or sapphires during the day at work, in the evening at the theater, and even into the early morning hours at the local speakeasy. They nicely illustrate the phrase "Putting on the Ritz."

"Night and Day" cufflinks, circa 1925.

To view other exceptional cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-02-28T20:45:00.008-05:00

Platinum and Gold Cufflinks

Carrington Platinum and Pearl Dress Set, circa 1925.

Platinum is a magical metal. It beautifully holds intricate engravings, can be polished to a mirror-like finish and attains a shimmering, frosty patina over time. And, because of its purity, platinum does not tarnish like white gold and silver.

When first encountered by Europeans in the 1500s, platinum was discarded as "unripened silver." Platinum melts at a much higher temperature than gold or silver. As a result, it was a difficult metal for jewelers and creators of objet d'art to work with. During the Victorian era technological advances, like the high-heat oxyhydrogen blow pipe, made working with platinum more feasible. By the early 1900s the brilliance of platinum had captivated the jewelry world. The brilliant white metal became almost de rigueur for fashionable cufflinks and other fine jewels. In my opinion some of the finest platinum cufflinks were created during the early 1900s, culminating with the Jazz Age of the 1920s. The Carrington pearl and platinum cufflinks pictured above nicely capture the elegance and style of the age.

Frosty platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

One of the appealing qualities of platinum is the rich patina it takes on over time. In winter we occasionally get a snow shower mixed with fine particles of ice. At night, especially under a full moon, the freshly fallen snow and ice crystals shimmer and sparkle with a magical glow.

Antique platinum often has a similar appearance. Platinum does not tarnish, but over the years platinum cufflinks can accumulate microscopic scratches and abrasions that give the metal a shimmering, magical glow. The effect is sometimes called "Platinum Frost". The frosty platinum cufflinks pictured above are a striking example.

Beautifully engraved platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

The increasing demand for and limited supply of platinum resulted by the early 1920s in platinum costing eight to ten times as much as gold. Although occasionally you will come across a beautiful pair of solid platinum cufflinks from the early 1900s, most often platinum was combined with gold to create richly engraved cufflinks with platinum tops and gold backs. The pair pictured above feature geometric Art Deco borders which perfectly complement the richly engraved centers. I suspect many platinum cufflinks were patriotically sacrificed during World War I and II when the precious metal was needed for strategic purposes.

Carter, Gough platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

A beautiful variation on the platinum and gold theme are elegant two-tone cufflinks. Striking two-tone cufflinks from the 1920s add elegant pizzazz to any cuff. The Carter, Gough cufflinks pictured above feature platinum borders embellished with "C" scrolls and intricately engraved yellow gold centers. Carter, Gough and its predecessor firms created beautiful gold and platinum cufflinks and jewels from the mid 1800s to the early 1930s.

Below is a slightly earlier pair of platinum and gold cufflinks from Durand & Company, another maker of exceptional cufflinks during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. As a bit of cufflink trivia, the founders of Durand & Company, were cousins of the Hudson River school painter Asher B. Durand. I have always wondered if the artistic pursuits of the jewelers and painter ever influenced each other.

Durand & Co. platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1910.

For additional views of the cufflinks pictured above,
please click the pictures.

To view these and other fine cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2009-01-31T16:12:00.012-05:00

William Huger blue guilloche enamel and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

William Huger Cufflinks

William Huger & Company was not as large or prolific as some of the other fine cufflink makers of the early 20th century (e.g., Carrington and Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss). But what it lacked in size and numbers, the firm made up for with the beauty and craftsmanship of its cufflinks. William Huger cufflinks are sought both for their great beauty and rarity.

William Huger & Co. gold cufflinks, circa 1900.

The story of William Huger & Company is yet to be fully told: the historical record is sparse. The firm was based in Newark, New Jersey and appears to have created fine gold cufflinks and other jewels for only a few decades from the late 1890s until the early 1930s. Like many fine jewelry makers based in Newark, William Huger & Co. ceased operations during the economic turmoil of the Great Depression.

Wm. Huger & Company gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

The greatest source of information about the firm are the cufflinks, themselves. William Huger embraced the best of late Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco design. The cufflinks usually feature bold, arresting centers surrounded by refined, exquisitely detailed borders. The cufflinks were crafted in 14kt gold and often accented with enamels (like the beautiful cufflinks featuring blue guilloche enamel pictured at the top of this post) or gemstones.

William Huger Onyx and gold Art Deco cufflinks, circa 1930.

Elegant simplicity defines Huger cufflinks during the Art Deco period. The cufflinks above feature gently domed black Onyx centers surrounded by rich 14kt gold borders of geometric Art Deco motifs and reeded sections. William Huger excelled at combining the boldness of Art Deco design with the firm's high craftsmanship and attention to small details.

"Architectural Elegance" by William Huger, circa 1930.

We have nicknamed this particular Huger design "Architectural Elegance." It is reminiscent of the Chrysler Building and other architectural icons of the Art Deco era. Relative to other Huger cufflinks, this design is not quite as rare. I suspect it was one of Huger's more popular cufflink designs during the 1920s and 30s. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1930.

William Huger & Co. maker's mark.

The maker's mark for William Huger & Company is an "H" with curling edges. The mark is found on the reverse of cufflinks to the right of the precious metal mark ("14" for 14kt gold). The Huger mark is sometimes misread as a fancy "K" or the somewhat similar maker's mark of the Clark Ring Company. At times the Huger mark may be partially obscured because of wear.

To view these and other fine cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-12-08T09:29:00.015-05:00

Charles Keller platinum and gold Cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflakes on the Cuff

Yesterday afternoon we had the first snowfall of the season. Although not exactly a blizzard, there was enough snow to cover everything in luminous, shimmering white. With this first sign of winter, it seems like a good time to talk about Snowflakes.

In decades around 1920, a great variety of cufflinks were created. Among the popular styles were white gold and platinum cufflinks with beautifully engraved centers. The cufflinks often featured radiant stars or stylized flower designs surrounded by bold, geometric borders. These lacy, white jewels have become known as "Snowflakes".

Platinum and Gold engraved "Snowflake" cufflinks, circa 1925.

Here are an elegantly engraved pair of cufflinks that are a nice example of the Snowflake style. The centers feature stylized flower motifs surrounded by elegant Chinese key borders. These cufflinks nicely illustrate the light, floating feel of the Snowflake style, as well as the diverse influences that contributed to Art Deco design. Crafted in gold and platinum, circa 1925.

Ziething Sapphire and Gold cufflinks, circa 1925.

Radiant star bursts set with rich blue man-made Sapphires brighten these Ziething cufflinks. Ziething & Company was a maker of fine cufflinks during the early decades of the last century. The firm excelled at brightly engraved cufflnks which beautifully sparkle and dance in the light. Crafted in 10kt white gold, circa 1925.

Frosty platinum and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Snowflake cufflinks are usually beautifully designed and well crafted. However, they present two challenges. First, Snowflakes tend to get lost against a white shirt cuff. These white gold and platinum cufflinks are best appreciated against a darker or patterned background.

Second, although Snowflake cufflinks are well crafted, they tend to be lighter in weight. Thus, they are ideal for special occasions, but may not take well to daily wear. As always, closely examine the backs of Snowflakes (and other cufflinks) to assure that the links and brackets are in accord with the intended wear.

For additional views of the cufflinks shown above, please click the pictures.

A flurry of Snowflakes and other fine cufflinks can be found
in our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-11-30T10:21:00.047-05:00

Carrington & C0. Sapphire and Blue Enamel Cufflinks, circa 1925

Winter Blues!

With the rapidly approaching holiday season thoughts turn to cufflinks ... both as gifts and for personal wear. One of my favorite color combinations during the holidays (and any other time of the year) is regal blue and antique gold. Featured in this note are three pairs of elegant gold and blue cufflinks. These cufflinks show that the prettiest ornaments are not always on the Christmas tree!

Pictured above is an elegant pair of Carrington & Co. cufflinks set with Sapphires and accented with rich blue enamel borders. The blue Sapphires and enamel accents beautifully contrast with the warm radiance of the brightly polished gold. Created around 1925, these cufflinks nicely reflect the bold, dramatic designs favored during the Art Deco era.

Carter Sapphire and gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

In a slightly earlier, more ornate style, these richly detailed Sapphire and gold cufflinks were created by Carter, Gough & Company around 1920. The brightly engraved centers and C-scroll borders glow with the warmth of antique gold, while the blue Sapphires call to mind the verse "Silent night, holy night / All is calm, all is bright." Carter, Gough was a maker of fine cufflinks and dress sets during the early decades of the last century.

Blue Enamel and Gold Cufflinks, circa 1920.

Intricate gold scrolls floating in a sea of rich blue enamel give these cufflinks a sense of Edwardian elegance. While the brightly polished centers will beautifully reflect flickering candlelight or the dancing flames of a fire. The elaborate, flowing scrolls are reminiscent of the lacy designs favored during the Edwardian era. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1920.

To purchase these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-10-31T15:52:00.014-04:00

Wordley, Allsopp and Bliss

The decades around 1920 have been called the Gold and Platinum Age of Cufflinks. In America, jewelry firms based in Newark, New Jersey created beautiful cufflinks in a diversity of styles and precious metals. One of the more prolific Newark makers of fine cufflinks was Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss (WAB).

WAB Egyptian Revival cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Founded in 1909, WAB and its several successor firms created elegant cufflinks that drew upon and updated the historical revival styles of the Victorian era. WAB cufflinks were beautifully crafted in 14kt yellow and white gold and often rivaled the creations of the other preeminent cufflink makers of the period (such as Carrington & Company, Carter, Gough & Company and Wm. Huger & Company).

Pictured above is a WAB cufflink in the Egyptian Revival style with stylized lotus blossoms and papyrus fronds in a cruciform arrangement. The beveled edges of the cufflinks are highlighted with an exotic zigzagging meander of black enamel. WAB excelled at balancing an eclectic array of elements in their cufflinks without the design looking overly cluttered.

WAB Scroll and Garland 14kt gold cufflinks, circ a 1920.

The eclectic enthusiasm of WAB is nicely illustrated in these "Scroll and Garland" cufflinks set with striking cabochon-cut Sapphires. Exuberant S-scrolls dominate the cloisoned borders while classically inspired garlands fill the centers. The WAB cufflink designers successfully infused these historical motifs with the fun and pizazz of the 1920s. Sort of 18th century formalism meets Jazz.

WAB Pinstripes and Gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Of course, not all WAB cufflinks were embellished with intricate designs. The pair pictured above is the epitome of simple elegance. The design reflects the simpler linear and geometric designs of the Art Deco period. The borders are accented with black enamel. This particular pair was given to a graduate of Brown University in 1920.

I believe WAB made cufflinks from about 1910 until sometime in the early 1930s. Like many cufflink makers of this period, production appears to have ceased or at least curtailed during the Great Depression. The firm was eventually absorbed by Krementz & Company during the 1950s.

Wordley, Allsopp and Bliss maker's mark.

The most common maker's mark for WAB and its successor firms is a "W" and a "B" resting on the sloping sides of an "A". The maker's mark is usually stamped along with the purity of the gold on the cross bar or bridge of the cufflink.

More photos of the above cufflinks can be found in the
Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-09-26T09:04:00.002-04:00

Antique Onyx Cufflinks

Over the past several months, I have written about antique cufflinks set with shimmering Moonstones, mesmerizing Moss Agates and iridescent Mother of Pearl. Another beautiful gemstone that is elegant on the cuff is Black Onyx.

Carter, Howe Onyx and Gold cufflinks, circa 1890.

During the Victorian era the midnight shades of Black Onyx were most often associated with mourning jewelry and the rituals of bereavement. Towards the end of the era the inky darkness of the gemstone began to shed its more sombre connotations. By the early 1900s, elegant cufflinks and shirt studs crafted in gold and Black Onyx had become de rigueur for black tie affairs.

Onyx, Diamond and Platinum Cufflinks.

Sparkling with diamonds and platinum, these elegant Carrington cufflinks reflect the light, airy jewelry designs of the early 1900s. They feature eight-sided Onyx tops centered with small collet-set diamonds. The platinum borders are richly engraved for an added touch of elegance. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, they speak to the undeniable elegance of Black Onyx and diamonds.

Garrigus Onyx and Pearl Cufflinks, circa 1930.

During the Art Deco era (circa 1920 - 1940) Black Onyx remained a favorite with jewelry designers. The dark black of the Onyx beautifully contrasted with the glowing brilliance of platinum and pearls. And the easily fashioned gemstone was ideal for the bold, geometric designs of the period.

Pictured above is beautiful cufflink created by L.E. Garrigus & Company. Garrigus was a maker of fine gold and platinum cufflinks and jewels during the first half of the last century. Their cufflinks were sold by Tiffany & Company and other fine jewelry retailers.

L.E. Garrigus Onyx, Pearl and Platinum Dress Set, circa 1930.

The Garrigus cufflinks are part of an elegant dress set with a pair of cufflinks, 3 shirt studs and 4 vest buttons. The set nicely illustrates the 1920s catch phrase "Putting on the Ritz!"

To view more antique cufflinks set with beautiful gemstones,
please the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-08-03T11:11:00.009-04:00

Moonstone Cufflinks

Carter, Howe moonstone cufflinks, circa 1900.

The shimmering, billowy sheen of Moonstone was eagerly embraced by late Victorian and Art Nouveau jewelers. Gently rounded Moonstones enhanced the romance and mystery of jewels and contrasted with the sharper edges of faceted gemstones. This note illustrates a striking pair of gold and Moonstone cufflinks created by the jewelry firm Carter, Howe & Co. in the years around 1900.

Moonstone and 14kt gold cufflink, circa 1900.

Crafted in 14kt gold, the cufflinks feature cabochon-cut oval Moonstones set in beautifully chased gold bezels. The simplicity of the design complements and heightens the beauty of the gemstones.

Carter, Howe & Company, along with its successor firm Carter, Gough & Co., created beautiful gold and platinum cufflinks, dress sets and accessories during the early decades of the last century. The principals of the firm appear to have had a particular affinity for lesser known, more unusual gemstones like Moss Agate, Onyx, carved Mother of Pearl and Moonstone. Although sometimes mislabeled as semi-precious, these gems become rare treasures when found in a pair of antique cufflinks.

Carter, Howe maker's mark and gold purity mark.

The Carter, Howe maker's mark, an arrowhead surrounding a small letter "C", is stamped on the curved bridges of the cufflinks. To the left of the maker's mark is found "14K" for the purity of the gold.

Additional photographs and details of these cufflinks can be
found in our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

2008-07-20T11:27:00.008-04:00

Winged Bridge maker, circa 1925.

The "Winged Bridge" Maker - II

In last week's note I discussed cufflinks created by an unidentified jewelry firm, nicknamed the "Winged Bridge Maker". I illustrated several cufflinks that were two-toned and featured intricately engine turned centers (see example above).

The unknown maker was not limited to beautifully executed abstract and linear designs. The Winged Bridge Maker also created striking cufflinks with rich floral and foliate centers. Two examples are illustrated below.

Art Deco "Classical Elegance", circa 1920.

The first pair echoes the formal neo-classical designs of the late Victorian period. The yellow gold centers feature acanthus leaves arranged in a swag pattern around a stylized eight-petal flower. The white gold borders feature small rosettes with flowing leaves and simple geometric corner motifs. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1920.

Art Deco "Flower Power", circa 1930

The design of the second pair of cufflinks is decidedly bolder. The eight-petal flower has "exploded" to dominate the yellow gold center with spear-tipped petals. Crowded between the elongated petals are small six-petal flowers. The white gold border features bold geometric motifs with the floral designs now relegated to the corners. Based on the style and design of these cufflinks, they date closer to 1930 than to 1920. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold.

These two cufflinks nicely illustrate the evolution of Art Deco cufflinks from the refined, almost neo-classical designs of the early 1920s to the bolder, geometric motifs of the 1930s.

2008-07-12T22:40:00.029-04:00

Winged Bridge Maker gold cufflinks, circa 1930.

The "Winged Bridge" Maker

Several weeks ago I wrote about a distinctive group of cufflinks created by an unknown maker. Because of the unique design of the connecting bridge, I provisionally named the maker of the cufflinks the "Acanthus Bridge Maker".

This week I illustrate another collection of striking cufflinks by an unknown maker. Crafted in yellow and white gold, these elegant cufflinks feature intricately engraved (engine-turned) centers surrounded by bold geometric and foliate borders. The cufflinks sparkle with the exuberance of the Jazz Age. A beautiful example with dramatic engine-turned centers and bold Art Deco borders is pictured above.

Reverse of cufflinks by Winged Bridge maker.

The unknown maker of this second group of cufflinks also favored a distinctive bridge design. The bridges flair out like the wings of a mythical or fantastic bird. Hence, I have nicknamed the creator of these cufflinks the "Winged Bridge Maker". Several more examples follow.

"Radiating Starbursts", circa 1925.

Striking two-tone cufflinks with yellow gold centers decorated with dramatic radiating starbursts. The Art Deco supernovas are surrounded by white gold borders embellished with stylized flowers and scrolls. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

"Ripples in a Pond", circa 1925.

This pair of cufflinks is more serene with yellow gold centers of engine-turned concentric circles. The design is reminiscent of the ripples created by a pebble dropped in a quiet pond. The octagonal white gold borders repeat the flower-and-scroll motif of the previous cufflinks. Crafted in 14kt white and yellow gold, circa 1925.

"Frosty Elegance", circa 1930.

Of course, not all of the the cufflinks by the Winged Bridge maker were two-toned. Pictured is a frosty pair of white gold cufflinks with elegant pinstripe centers. The octagonal borders are a bolder interpretation of the flowers and scrolls theme. Crafted in 14kt white gold, circa 1930.

To view other beautiful cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.